I'll be installing UDP's on my Automatic next week and have a few q's.

The instructions from Steeda mention that for autos you need to hold the torque converter with a 14mm wrench to keep it from rotating when tightening the crankshaft pully down.

Do you really have to or can you just tighten it down with a impact gun?

Does anyone have any pics of where to access the torque converter?

What did you do for your UDP install?

TIA

 

Can't answer the torque converter part of your question but I *can* say that it's a big NEGATIVE to using an impact gun to torque your balancer back on...

NO... NO... NO...

P.S.: Did you get a replacement bolt from Ford?

 

I have an auto and I can tell you that you will have to remove the access cover on the drivers side of the bellhousing and put the 14 mm wrench on one of the bolts on the flexplate to hold everything from turning when you loosen and tighten the balancer nut. It will help if you have 2 people. Unless you have a real stubby and strong impact wrench you will never get it in between the radiator and the pulley. Get yourself about a 3 foot breaker bar. That nut is tight!!! Sorry Leo I also have no pics. But you can't miss the access cover. Also you want to use a boxend wrench and not a socket with an extension. I tried that at first and kinda rounded off one nut. Use a boxend wrench with a offset jog in it.
Scott

 

Let me chime in for Leo since I'm the one who'll be giving him a hand at installing these pulleys.

What Leo's referring to is Ford's torque procedure..

Step 1) torque to 66 lb-ft
Step 2) loosen bolt 1 full turn
Step 3) torque to 37 lb-ft
Step 4) tighten bolt an additional 90 degrees

Getting through steps 1-3 isn't the issue. Step 4 can be a little difficult even with a breaker bar (I know first hand ).
It's this last step where the use of an impact gun may come in handy, especially if we have difficulty in holding down the converter. All we would do in this case is to mark the socket and impact it until it rotates the required 90 degrees.

And yes, he has a new Ford crank bolt ready to go.

 

We're planning on pulling the fan shroud. There's plenty of room for an impact gun once that's out of the way.

 

I did not pull my shroud when I did mine but maybe MY gun is bigger than yours... I would still be surprised if it would fit but it sounds like you already know yours will so I am sure that will make it easier. I think you will still need to hold the flexplate though. The engine turns quite freely.
Scott

 

You old timers and your impact guns.....

Hey Leo, may as well do a electric H2O pump while you're at it.

 

Well at my age mostly all you can do anymore is talk about it. And the EH2O pump is a good idea. Been running mine for 20 months as a daily driver with no issues. Yet!
Scott

 

Oh brother!

My gun will fit, used it when I did my pulleys.



Oh man, don't tempt him with another mod.. Wait, don't tempt ME with another mod!



Okay, gotta ask..
The EH2O pump equates to what kind of mod (related to performance)? Like adding UDP's? CAI/Tune?

 

Okay, I promise "no more big gun jokes" If you believe Miezere's website they claim like 12 rwhp when adding their pump. I believe half of that comes from the UDP's. I have no dyno proof of this just an educated guess. I think if done with the UDP's you will gain an additional 6-7 rwhp. Just makes sense since your not churning the water with the engine any more. And I can tell you the engine definitely revs alot quicker than stock.
Scott

 

To me, the peace of mind and cooling convenience of having an eH2O pump far outweighs any potential power gains. I know if I snap a belt, my car won't overheat at all. I can still drive it if I have to. And it actually works more efficient at low speeds (such as stop and go traffic), when belt driven pumps are least efficient. Plus, at the track, I use it to cool the car down between runs. I can pull 40 degrees out of the water temp in just 5-10 minutes.

 

FWIW, Brenspeed is a BIG proponent of the E H2O pump and even sells a kit that has the Steeda crank pulley with the pump- 'cause with the pump, you don't need the underdrive pulley for the factory water pump.

Either way for power and/or additional cooling capability, it sounds like a great idea.

 

Thanks to everyone for all the input. Don't think I'll be doing the H20 pump till later on down the road. Thanks Bill for filling in while I was away. So in closing can I or can't I remove the factory crank pulley without holding a wrench to the torque converter?

 

Heyyyy... not fair... I want a hand with my MGW shifter...

(still wondering where you found Krytox grease!)

 

Well Leo... I had to hold my torque converter when I did mine but I did not use a impact wrench. Try it with the impact wrench first. You'll figure it out real quick.
Scott

 

It's more like 'supervising'.

PM me your addy and maybe some will mysteriously show up at your door step.