I got some rubbers
#21
9 is not my lucky number.
Thread Starter
Originally posted by 169stang@January 31, 2006, 10:25 PM
I had those tires at first as well. It was when I went to the ET Street Radials and the 6000rpm launches that tore up the stock diff. and the Auburn Pro after 4 passes.
I had those tires at first as well. It was when I went to the ET Street Radials and the 6000rpm launches that tore up the stock diff. and the Auburn Pro after 4 passes.
#22
Join Date: July 12, 2004
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Yes, the drag radials hooked harder. It is due to the sidewalls flexing less on the radials. I'm not too sure how much of track prep at my track comes into play here. I didn't have line locs then, no power adder. I haven't had a poweradder on the car yet. The edge of the tire will be flush with the fender. The car will sway a bit more, especially on decel at the end of the track on the biased bly tires. Too narrow of a rim for the tire caused the tire to bubble up or round out and your wear will be down the center of the tire as opposed to throughout the entire foot print.
You will want to leave at a higher rpm. Not enough and the car's gonna bog. As I understand it, you want the tire to spin just a bit at launch. That take a lot of strain off the drivetrain. When you watch other cars run, you can hear that ripping sound when they leave. That's what you want. I'm sure that crew your hanging with (Mike, George, John) can tell you when they are at the track with you.
You will want to leave at a higher rpm. Not enough and the car's gonna bog. As I understand it, you want the tire to spin just a bit at launch. That take a lot of strain off the drivetrain. When you watch other cars run, you can hear that ripping sound when they leave. That's what you want. I'm sure that crew your hanging with (Mike, George, John) can tell you when they are at the track with you.
#23
9 is not my lucky number.
Thread Starter
Thanks for the advice. I had borrowed Mike's tires once (this same setup, tire/rim) and he had forgotten to warn me about how the car bounces around side to side on decel at 15 psi. It was funny. I only made 1 run with them and I made crappy time because I didn't burn out enough and I actually spun out at the line on launch. I didn't have line locks and I'm not good at burning out.
I'm mentally prepared for killing my clutch by the end of the season. Hopefully I can get someone to help me put a Stage 2 clutch in when the time comes. I know that costs like 700 in parts alone.
I'm mentally prepared for killing my clutch by the end of the season. Hopefully I can get someone to help me put a Stage 2 clutch in when the time comes. I know that costs like 700 in parts alone.
#24
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At the time that I changed out my clutch, I was wishing I had went to the alum. flywheel too. I went to a RAM clutch and they didn't have a flywheel at the time specific to the 05. I'm now going to a centerforce DFX clutch. If you get one, I suggest getting the flywheel as well, if you can swing it. 1. your motor will rev faster 2. you won't have to use any shims for the slave master. On the RAM clutch, you have to use 2 shims that go behind the slave master. It would be the same for the centerforce. The centerforce flywheel is made to make up the difference that the shims would do. Just make sure you ask about spacing if you do clutch only. There's a guy on the Corral that just installed a DFX with the factory flywheel. His clutch is slipping and he needs to install shims now or go to a centerforce flywheel. I feel like I'm being repeating myself...sorry.
#25
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Originally posted by 169stang@January 31, 2006, 9:25 PM
I had those tires at first as well. It was when I went to the ET Street Radials and the 6000rpm launches that tore up the stock diff. and the Auburn Pro after 4 passes. The only diff that's held up is the Tru trac. The clutch will begin to go away quicker as well.
I had those tires at first as well. It was when I went to the ET Street Radials and the 6000rpm launches that tore up the stock diff. and the Auburn Pro after 4 passes. The only diff that's held up is the Tru trac. The clutch will begin to go away quicker as well.
#26
9 is not my lucky number.
Thread Starter
So you guys are saying with 4.10s I will tear up my differential? Great. The 4.10s are going in before I ever mount these tires.
I don't think I'll have to launch at 6500 with 4.10s though. Mike used to launch at 5000
I don't think I'll have to launch at 6500 with 4.10s though. Mike used to launch at 5000
#27
Legacy TMS Member
why not go with 26x10.50's? I mean that would be slightly less rubber contact, but fit better no?
We just got info for another wholesaler, I can get these at a decent price now! Im happy.
We just got info for another wholesaler, I can get these at a decent price now! Im happy.
#31
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Bro, your wholesale dealings will end sooner than later posting pricing like that!
#33
9 is not my lucky number.
Thread Starter
Originally posted by 169stang@January 31, 2006, 10:25 PM
The only diff that's held up is the Tru trac.
The only diff that's held up is the Tru trac.
#34
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I bought mine from Drive train specialists. Make sure to get the new version and not the old. http://www.drivetrainspecialists.com/categ...truetrac-1.html
It's either TT 913A561 or TT 913A558. It's most likely the first one being that it costs $28 more I forget exactly, but I think the new one is called the 3 pinion or something to that effect.
It's either TT 913A561 or TT 913A558. It's most likely the first one being that it costs $28 more I forget exactly, but I think the new one is called the 3 pinion or something to that effect.
#35
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Originally posted by thump_rrr@February 1, 2006, 12:57 AM
I've put nearly 140 runs on my 275/40 17 BFG Drag Radials which are 10.8" wide on factory rims. There are a couple of drawbacks.
If you plan on driving to the track on them take it easy around the curves because the side to side flex of an 11" tire on an 8" rim is scary at times. The tire sticks but the rear of the car feels like it's sliding due to to sidewall flex.
As you can see from this pic you don't get an optimal footprint due to the narrow rim.
I've put nearly 140 runs on my 275/40 17 BFG Drag Radials which are 10.8" wide on factory rims. There are a couple of drawbacks.
If you plan on driving to the track on them take it easy around the curves because the side to side flex of an 11" tire on an 8" rim is scary at times. The tire sticks but the rear of the car feels like it's sliding due to to sidewall flex.
As you can see from this pic you don't get an optimal footprint due to the narrow rim.
#36
9 is not my lucky number.
Thread Starter
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(169stang @ February 1, 2006, 7:38 PM) Quoted post</div><div class='quotemain'>
I bought mine from Drive train specialists. Make sure to get the new version and not the old. http://www.drivetrainspecialists.com/categ...truetrac-1.html
It's either TT 913A561 or TT 913A558. It's most likely the first one being that it costs $28 more I forget exactly, but I think the new one is called the 3 pinion or something to that effect.
[/b][/quote]
hmm I see your post on ModularFords
I dunno it will be costly, like an extra 650
I bought mine from Drive train specialists. Make sure to get the new version and not the old. http://www.drivetrainspecialists.com/categ...truetrac-1.html
It's either TT 913A561 or TT 913A558. It's most likely the first one being that it costs $28 more I forget exactly, but I think the new one is called the 3 pinion or something to that effect.
[/b][/quote]
hmm I see your post on ModularFords
I dunno it will be costly, like an extra 650
#37
I have also been running those tires on the stock rims and launching at around 6k on the bottle and yes it did fry my clutch but with the spec stg 3 in there it did net me a 1.61 60'. Also I can get those tires shipped to your door for $175 each and any other M/T tire you need.
P.S. I will be running them on wider rims as soon as I can find a 17x10 with the correct offset-anyone know if this exists?
P.S. I will be running them on wider rims as soon as I can find a 17x10 with the correct offset-anyone know if this exists?
#39
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Black3V @ February 1, 2006, 7:49 PM) Quoted post</div><div class='quotemain'>
P.S. I will be running them on wider rims as soon as I can find a 17x10 with the correct offset-anyone know if this exists?
[/b][/quote]
I haven't seen any... but a 25-30mm offset would work fine for the track. Who cares if the tires stick out of the fenderwell by 1/4" at the track. [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/icon_mrgreen.gif[/img]
P.S. I will be running them on wider rims as soon as I can find a 17x10 with the correct offset-anyone know if this exists?
[/b][/quote]
I haven't seen any... but a 25-30mm offset would work fine for the track. Who cares if the tires stick out of the fenderwell by 1/4" at the track. [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/icon_mrgreen.gif[/img]
#40
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(don_w @ February 1, 2006, 11:37 PM) Quoted post</div><div class='quotemain'>
I haven't seen any... but a 25-30mm offset would work fine for the track. Who cares if the tires stick out of the fenderwell by 1/4" at the track. [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/icon_mrgreen.gif[/img]
[/b][/quote]
I guess I should stop being so picky-ok Don since u said its ok to run the wheels that stick out im gonna do it. [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/04.gif[/img]
I haven't seen any... but a 25-30mm offset would work fine for the track. Who cares if the tires stick out of the fenderwell by 1/4" at the track. [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/icon_mrgreen.gif[/img]
[/b][/quote]
I guess I should stop being so picky-ok Don since u said its ok to run the wheels that stick out im gonna do it. [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/04.gif[/img]