george06

Can anybody out there tell me if the "hydrobooster" from a 2004 mustang cobra will fit a 2006 mustang gt??? I have Thumper cams and no vacuum.Thank you for your help.

houtex

Might be easier to get a vacuum pump. Example:
http://www.autoanything.com/brakes/69A3151A0A0.aspx

But to answer your question... stock locations and such? Probably not... but I wouldn't know.

However, with a Dremel and a hammer, anything can be *made* to work. Anything.

/I'd probably still go for the vacuum pump though.
//And you may want a decent reservoir too: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-G1464/ (example)

george06

The problem with the vacuum pump is the lack of space within the engine compartment,thats why i want the hydrobooster it is about the same size as the oem booster.

george06

Well i finally did it,hydrobooster is in,brakes are great,Ford should have done it this way just like the 2000/2004 Cobras have them.As soon as i can i will post how i did it.Thanks to Bucht Holler from Tallon Hydraulic in Michigan who build the system from scracht without looking at the car.

houtex

I bet there's a dremel portion in there... right?

Gratz!

---

Ok, what was I on with this:
"However,anywith a Dremel and a hammerthing can be *made* to work"

I think that 'any' was supposed to be over there attached to 'thing'?

george06

LOL Houtex,the only drilling that was done is to enlarge one of the holes that hold the hydrobooster to 3/8",everything else is R&R.I will be doing a how to with pictures later on.

george06

Hydrobooster install on S197


Image hosting, free photo sharing & video sharing at Photobucket
to check out the pictures click on the above site. I wrote individual description for each of the pictures. Im not so savvy with the computer so bear with me.

Ok here it is. disclaimer: this is the way i did it, you guys may do it another way, as a matter of fact I will now use the factory high pressure power steering hose to give it a factory look.I have 3 vehicles at my disposal so i took my time doing this,you guys with D/D should be able to do it in 6 to 8 hrs.Measure the length of the hoses several times before you cut them,also make sure ALL of the fitting are tight before starting the engine,don't ask me why.

Step one:Remove the A/C accumulator from driver side fender,two bolts hold it,and push it up on top of the strut tower.

Step two:Master Cylinder,it must be removed from the booster as there is no room to move it forward.Remove the brake lines first and then remove the two bolts from the booster.

Step three:Now go inside the vehicle,and push driver seat as far back as it will go to give you room to get under the dashboard.Now remove the speed activation switch that is attached to the top of the brake pedal by turning it counterclockwise 45*.The switch is blue in color.
Next remove the stoplight switch right below the speed activation switch by turning it clockwise 45*.The switch is black.Once you remove the switches then you remove the four nuts that are holding the vacuum booster. Now disconect the booster bracket from the brake pedal.Don't forget to remove the vacuum hose in the engine side.

Step four:There is a hole out of the four holes on the firewall that holds the booster,top left hole as you look forward,that must be drilled to 3/8".This is done from the engine side,this is the only drilling that you will do.Once this is done you are ready to install the Hydrobooster.You will need a helper to hold the hydrobooster in place till you tighten the four nuts inside.Reattach the hydrobooster to the brake pedal,and replace the stop light and speed deactivation switch.DO NOT PUSH THE BRAKE PEDAL YET!!!!

Step five:attach the M/C to the hydrobooster by inserting the passenger side bolt only as you need to turn the M/C towards the passenger side and install the front brake line (A 45* adapter will solve this problem) We don't have much room that's why we do this.Now turn the M/C back to it's normal position and attach the other bolt to the booster.Do this only by hand,now place the rear brake line in the M/C.Once you finish tighten all connections,nuts,brake lines,etc.

Step six:Remove the high pressure line from the power steering pump and let it drain,remove the other end of the hose from the rack&pinion,also remove the cooler/return line next to the high pressure line.They are both held by the same bracket.You get a new one with the kit.Remove the return hose from the Power Steering reservoir and cut 2" off,that is where your "T"from the hydrobooster goes. Now start replacing all of your fittings that came with the kit,power steering pump,rack&pinion,hydrobooster inlet,and outlet and hydrobooster return line going to the "T" at the reservoir.Now measure all your hoses and cut them( don't forget to measure twice before cutting)Now install the fitting on the hoses (keep them away from the headers)Once all of your hoses are installed fill your power steering reservoir,make sure your front wheels are off the ground.Turn your wheels left/right lock to lock about 20 to 25 times to bleed the air out while making sure that the reservoir is full and you have no leaks.Turn the engine on for about 5 seconds and check the reservoir make sure is full.Run the engine for about a minute turning the wheels left/right several times,recheck for leaks,add fluid if needed.

Step seven:bleed your brakes,start at the right rear,l/rear,f/right,and f/left;do this till there is no air coming out.I did it 3 times,all the way around.Now start the engine and test the brakes before you MOVE THE CAR!! Check system for leacks ,if none found take the car for a ride around the block to test the brakes.Make sure to wear your seatbealt till you get use to having stopping power.

Step eight:A/C system,since your master cylinder has been moved forward about 3",your A/C lines must be re-routed behind the M/C.I took the car to a shop that i know and they did the following.The A/C accumulator sits inside a plastic cover that is held by four push clamps,they removed them and turned the accumulator to the right about 3",the outlet and inlet are now facing the passenger side.They also cut about an 1"around the top to fit the new orientation of the accumulator.The low pressure hose,the one that goes behind the engine required no modification.The high pressure hose,the one going to the A/C compressor had to be removed from the car as it will be heated and turned 45* angle to be able to go behind the M/C.( i have no pictures as i forgot to take the camera )

I know that it sounds like it is a hard job and a pain in the butt,but belive me is not that bad.I am a believer that if you want to go fast,you also need to stop fast,i am happy with the results,my brakes are great.If you need more info call Butch at 561-290-4918,he build the system from scratch.

Tallon Hydraulics
36607 S.Ellis rd
Drummond Island,Mi 49726

06GT

What is the purpose of this swap?

Kotobuki

Since the OP has a more radical cam than stock, his engine generates less vacuum than typical. This will lead to the vacuum assisted brakes not functioning as intended by the factory. The Hydrobooster appears to be a hydraulic actuated booster, that is tied into the power steering system. This should allow the brakes to retain an easy pedal feel, despite the loss of vacuum.

06GT

Perfect, now I understand. Thanks for the concise explanation.