wjones14

I got the Hurst Competition/Plus shifter part number 391 0201 for a Christmas gift (also got 4 Pioneer TS-A6871R 6" x 8" speakers, but that's for another thread). Santa was good to me.

I installed the shifter today, mostly using the instructions that came with it. I also printed out instructions from a couple websites because they seemed to have some tips that would make the install easier:

http://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2...fter/index.php

http://www.stangnet.com/Tech-Article...ll-061016.html

The overall installation, not counting getting the car on 4 jackstands, took me about 2 hours. More experienced mechanics could no doubt do it quicker, but I wasn't in any rush. I did it alone, but I can see where it would help to have a buddy there to hand you things while you're under the car, and most importantly, to be inside the car helping to snake the old shifter out and snake the new one in. It can be done by yourself though, and it's not too bad.

Here are the tools you really need:

- 10mm deep socket (for the rear mounting bracket)
- 10mm ratcheting closed end wrench (ideally) or 10mm open end wrench (for front bolt on shifter arm)
- 13mm socket (for linkage rod)
- flat blade screwdriver (for prying clip from rear bracket)
- 7/32 allen wrench (for shifter blade)
- 7/16 or so socket (to drive out bushing from front arm of stock shifter)
- hammer (to drive above socket)
- blue Loctite or Permatex thread locker


There are a couple of tricky parts to the install. The first problem I ran into was getting the rear bracket off, because of a clip holding it in place. You have to pry the clip off with a screwdriver or pry bar. The second problem is getting the old shifter up through the console. It will go without forcing it, but it's like a puzzle trying to maneuver it through. Removing the rear metal bracket from the rubber mounting piece makes it easier, but even with the bracket on it will fit. The next hard part, of course, is getting the new shifter back through the hole. Again, it will go without forcing it. Finally, and maybe the trickiest part of all, is getting the inner dust cover back on. No joke. You have to stretch the bottom of the boot to go over the shifter mechanism. The shifter mechanism is about 2" in diameter, while the boot hole is about 1-1/2" in diameter, so you have to stretch it. This would probably be quite easy if you removed the console, but I didn't, and it was maybe the hardest part of the whole install! (One of the above instruction links suggested removing the console, and if I had it to do over again, I would have done that.) After about 10 minutes and some skinned knuckles I did finally get the inner boot stretched over the round shifter mechanism, and that was essentially the end of the installation, aside from snapping the outer leather boot back on, and tightening the ****.

Hubec

A couple quick thing;

You don't have to remove the rear bracket. Just remove the nuts and let the clip hold the bracket loosely in place.

You don't have to force the dust shield around the shifter base. Just let it lay ontop of the shifter and of course fit the sides of the shield into the frame hole.

Over all it's a very easy install. And yeah I'd guess that it would take about 2 hours if you really took your time including lifting and jack stands. BTW I'm extremely happy with the shifter, it isn't too short, the linkage is VERY direct, it doesn't vibrate, it isn't "notchy" at all. Perhaps best of all; it really gives the interior a bit of a nostalgia-performance feel - and when the feel is backed up by a HO Paxton... well that doesn't hurt either.

FLAstangx3

Nice posts and write-ups. The only problem I had, and yeah, me too, did it by myself, was getting the new unit through the hole. actuallt getting it through wasn't the problem, it was getting the front arm above the crossmember. talk about a puzzle. Your right about the clip, doe'nt need to be removed.

wjones14

Now all I need is the Paxton.

So today I drove the the new Hurst around for a couple hours. It's totally awesome! There is NO rattle or vibration at all, as some others have posted in the past. It is not notchy either. It makes a louder click [than stock] when going into gear, which to me is a good thing. It's a bit more effort than stock, but actually not as much as I was expecting - it's not difficult by any means - it's really just firmer and more precise.

As far as the dust shield, yeah I imagine it wouldn't be the end of the world if you didn't stretch it over the shifter base, but it seems like you should if you can - it will keep water and dust out of the shifter should anything splash up there.

The Hurst instructions that came with mine have a 12/05 date on them, and do include the all-important note that the offset (long side) of the connector on the stick bottom that attaches to the shift rod linkage, should be positioned to the driver's side. That instruction was missing from earlier printings I guess.