area5179

I'm trying to decide between na Hurst shifter or B&M. I tried MaverickMLFD371's B&M at the TMS Atco raceway event. I like the feel of it but I was reading an article on the Hurst in MM&FF and they had a piece on the Hurst. I have know about the Hurst line for some time and just wanted to get some feedback and tip's from those have these shifters installed thank's for all your help!

Sean

MaverickMLFD371

Still a great feel area5179 since that day at Atco, have had no problems with installing it, installation was soooooooo easy! Since then, nothing has changed, great feel, clicks into gear smoothly, no vibration, no "louder" sound, no rattling, overall a great shifter!

TheWrench

Sean, I checked at NinoSport and it looks like the Hurst shifter has a 40% shorter throw and the B and M has a 30% shorter throw. They cost the same too. I haven't used either myself. Much better performance vs stock shifter in either case.

cstunkard

I have the Hurst Competition Plus, it was an easy install, under an hour, and a big improvement over stock. Very short throw, and very sharp clean shifts. I have had it for about 6 mos and no problems. I don't know about the B&M, but I love the Hurst.

stkdidy

I understand that the shifters make the throw a lot tighter and shorter, but how much does this directly translate into better times at the strip? i seem to be able to powershift plenty fast stock but if i gained a tenth or more over the three shifts, it would be worth it to me

cstunkard

I don’t profess to be an expert at power shifting, but if the throw is reduced by 40% it is safe to assume you can shift faster. Then again, I admit to missing/bouncing off 2nd gear a couple of times with the stock shifter….. but never with the Hurst.

stkdidy

this is good the hear

pjdami

Pros and Cons of the Hurst Shifter:

Pros:
1) much shorter throw than stock.
2) very positive and firm feel
3) almost impossible to miss third gear (I haven't yet).
4) looks cool and retro if you go with the chrome stick.
5) relatively easy installation.
6) so far mine has been reliable

Cons:
1) some people experience a rattle noise through some rpms.
2) more shift effort required than stock but breaks in over time.
3) not as smooth as stock i.e. there is a "pause" or click in neutral that you have to go through.
4) chrome stick bolts can come loose and create rattle. Recommended to use medium strength loctite or equivalent.

I still like mine a lot and adds to the enjoyment of driving the car. I can't comment on the B&M because I never tried one out.

Joediveguy

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(pjdami @ January 17, 2006, 8:08 PM) Quoted post</div><div class='quotemain'>
Pros and Cons of the Hurst Shifter:

Pros:
1) much shorter throw than stock.
2) very positive and firm feel
3) almost impossible to miss third gear (I haven't yet).
4) looks cool and retro if you go with the chrome stick.
5) relatively easy installation.
6) so far mine has been reliable

Cons:
1) some people experience a rattle noise through some rpms.
2) more shift effort required than stock but breaks in over time.
3) not as smooth as stock i.e. there is a "pause" or click in neutral that you have to go through.
4) chrome stick bolts can come loose and create rattle. Recommended to use medium strength loctite or equivalent.

I still like mine a lot and adds to the enjoyment of driving the car. I can't comment on the B&M because I never tried one out.
[/b][/quote]

You are right on in your eval! I just installed my Hurst yesterday and could not get the grin off my face all night. My wife thought I went out to a strip club! It shifts GREAT, very retro, including the "clunky-ness". It's like the good 'ol day's in my '71 Q code! [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/banana.gif[/img] It took some massaging but I was able to get it in from the top. I had to remove the bracket and bushing but it fit.

Needless to say I am very impressed with it. It is totally worth the money and scrapped up knuckles. The Transmission tunnel is very tight and has a lot of sharp spot weld points.

I have not tried the other brands but being from Ohio and growing up around Mr. Gasket and Hurst products I couldn’t really go any other route. Not to mention they are the ones making the shifter for Ford Racing, it’s the same shifter, just a higher price. Go figure, Ford has to their coin.

Just my .02. [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/thumb.gif[/img]

Joe

pjdami

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(IE8Z28 @ February 20, 2006, 8:44 AM) Quoted post</div><div class='quotemain'>
You are right on in your eval! I just installed my Hurst yesterday and could not get the grin off my face all night. My wife thought I went out to a strip club! It shifts GREAT, very retro, including the "clunky-ness". It's like the good 'ol day's in my '71 Q code! [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/banana.gif[/img] It took some massaging but I was able to get it in from the top. I had to remove the bracket and bushing but it fit.

Needless to say I am very impressed with it. It is totally worth the money and scrapped up knuckles. The Transmission tunnel is very tight and has a lot of sharp spot weld points.

I have not tried the other brands but being from Ohio and growing up around Mr. Gasket and Hurst products I couldn’t really go any other route. Not to mention they are the ones making the shifter for Ford Racing, it’s the same shifter, just a higher price. Go figure, Ford has to their coin.

Just my .02. [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/thumb.gif[/img]

Joe
[/b][/quote]

Joe,
Glad you are enjoying the Hurst. If you want to experiment, get under the car again and remove the two long studded 10 mm nuts on the rear bushing and put the stock bushing (EPDM rubber) back in. That will reduce the shift effort about 30 percent and also reduces the hesitation between gears while maintaining everything else the Hurst does well. You do not need to remove the entire shifter to try this and it only takes about 10 minutes.

FL2005GT

I have the Hurst and recommend it. I had a rattle at high RPM for a couple of weeks and then, like a couple of other posters have mentioned, it just disappeared. No idea why. Anyway, the throws will be firmer and more mechanical feeling. Also love the look of the traditional Hurst shift **** and stick. Can I shift faster with the Hurst? Idunno. But I have more fun shifting in daily driving and when I'm on the gas.

I've driven a friend's GT with a B&M shifter and it actually felt a bit smoother, not as notchy. Might have been that it was more broken in. Might be the bushings.

Either way, you can't go wrong. Like just doing axle-backs, you're probably not going to see any noticable increase in performance, but the fun factor goes way up.

freyke

Just ordered the 391 0201 (chrome stick and white ****) from summit. They just lowered the price to $179.88 , $9.50 handling charge and free Shipping UPS ground ($189.38 TTL)...

Anyway, I was looking at the online .PDF installation instructions and it does not seem too clear on how to adapt the stock shifter boot to the new chrome stick... Did I miss something?... Has anybody done a step-by-step documentation (photos) of this install?.... if so maybe you can direct me to them.....

Thanks ahead of time....

FL2005GT

The shifter comes with a little rubber gasket that you pop into place inside the top of the shift boot. You can then slide this up or down, wherever you want it on the stick.

Install on these new shifters is a real bish.

traffic142

Should you order the steeda bushings for the Hurst to make it not vibrate as much?

Good news on the summit price.

uofh2005

I've enjoyed my Hurst shifter since after a month of having it installed. It was kinda annoying the first few weeks, because of how hard and notchy it was shifting. After a few weeks though it was smooth and sweet.

I have one question though, I had it installed and wondering if they installed the handle on the wrong side because its rubbed the vinyl shifter boot away on the left side of the shifter ****. (If that makes anysense) I was wondering if the lever should be on the side closer to the passenger seat instead?

freyke

<div align="center">Hurst Competition/Plus Shifter
Install for ’05 Mustang GT PN/391 0201
</div>

<div align="left">
The Hurst instructions (form 159 0200 12/05) are fairly decent. The install instructions are available as a .PDF at:</div>
<div align="left">
http://www.hurst-shifters.com/InstructionS...randID=2&ID=781</div>
<div align="left">
The following instructions were developed as a supplement to the original Hurst instructions in order to provide a potential installer a little more insight along with tips, tricks and lessons learned as to what is involved. These instructions are geared towards the home/shade-tree guy and provide a little visual reinforcement. </div>

<div align="left">a) Engage emergency brake.</div>

<div align="left">[img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/cool.gif[/img] Place shifter in neutral position.</div>
<div align="left">
c) Remove shifter boot; follow Hurst instructions FACTORY SHIFTER REMOVAL steps 3 and 4. See Figure-1.</div>


<div align="center"></div>
<div align="center">Figure-1. (Remove Shifter Boot)</div>

<div align="left">d) Remove floor plan dust boot – just pull up. See FIGURE-2.</div>


<div align="center"></div>
<div align="center">Figure-2. (Dust Boot Removal)</div>

<div align="left">e) Separate OEM shift **** from boot; tug **** from boot, this is easily done by turning the boot inside-out pulling fabric/naugahide away from **** channel. See Figure 3.</div>

<div align="center">
</div>
<div align="center">Figure-3. (Shift **** Removal)</div>


<div align="left">f) Raise vehicle to safe/adequate height. Heed caution in Hurst install instructions FACTORY SHIFTER REMOVAL step 6. See Figure-4 below</div>

<div align="center">

</div>
<div align="center">Figure-4. (Lift Vehicle)</div>


<div align="center">g) See Hurst install instructions FACTORY SHIFTER REMOVAL steps 7 through 11. Below are Figures 5 through 7 with appropriate annotations to aid in the shifter removal process. Note – no usable photograph was taken of the removal of the shifter assembly arm; see Hurst Instructions Figure 3 for this. </div>


<div align="center">

</div>
<div align="center">Figure-5. (Use a 10mm short socket and 3/8 ratchet for the removal of the transmission linkage rod) </div>


<div align="center"></div>
<div align="center">Figure-6. (Use a deep well 10mm socket w/a 5-10” extension on a 3/8” dive to remove the two hex nuts retaining the rear mount.) </div>


<div align="center"></div>
<div align="center">Figure-7. (Maneuver the OEM shifter out from underneath the car through the hole in the transmission tunnel. I found that this can be performed with no assistance with relative ease despite the instructions note “A helper is recommended to assist in the removal process.” The process is made easier by sliding the rear “block shaped” bushing all the way forward (towards the shift lever). </div>
<div align="center">



</div>
<div align="center">Figure-8 [Transfer the light yellow nylon bushings (two each – left/right halves) located in the stick bottom. Then transfer the steel bushings (two each – left/right halves) located in the shifter assembly arm to the Hurst shifter.] </div>


<div align="center"></div>
<div align="center">Figure-9. (Note: orientation of stick bottom; long side offset will be toward driver’s side when installed.) </div>


<div align="center"></div>
<div align="center">Figure-10. (In order to nullify the potential for shifter “buzz” a rubber gasket was fashioned from a section of old bicycle inner-tube.) </div>


<div align="center"></div>
<div align="center">Figure-11. [Remember, for final installation; use a general- purpose grease (in this case I used Lithium based) to lubricate the insides of the bushing assemblies. Refer to Figure-8 above.] </div>


<div align="center"></div>
<div align="center">Figure-12. (From the inside the passenger compartment; Weasel the new shifter back into place. This is essentially the reverse process for the removal. This too can be accomplished by one’s self. Take your time and don’t get frustrated – It’ll all come together.) </div>


<div align="left">h) Final thoughts: This install was not at all hard to accomplish with normal hand tools and equipment. Rate it 4 out of 10 wrenches on a difficulty scale. A few things to remember though, use Loctite blue thread locker on all bolt threads when re-assembling, grease/lube all bushing interiors, and in order to promote smooth operation of the shifter do not over-tighten the 13mm bolt that secures the linkage rod. If this bolt is too tight it will compress the bushing and make shifter operation stiff.</div>
<div align="center">


</div>

rex05

here is another hurst writeup, video too:
http://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2006/02...ifter/index.php

great shifter!

pjdami

Nice writeup freyke.

Some conflicting instructions from Hurst again. When I installed my shifter, the instructions had the offset to the passenger side. A thread was written here about it:

http://forums.bradbarnett.net/index.php?sh...4&hl=hurst&st=0

Now the Hurst installation instructions clearly say to place the offset to the driver's side. If it doesn't make a difference like Hurst said on the phone to a forum member, I wonder why they changed the directions?

Now I'm wondering if it is supposed to be with the offset to the driver's side like the updated instructions say. I know a lot of us have the offset to the passenger side.

freyke

pjdami,

I'd say it is likely; in-fact true, that the "long side" of the offset goes towards the driver's side.... This is not a big deal if you went with the factory style (OEM look) stick; it’s a one bolt caper... Just remove the 13mm bolt connecting the linkage and rotate it (the shifter stick) 180 degrees - Reinsert the linkage rod into the bushing and re-attach the 13mm bolt..... If you've got the chrome stick and ball caper - it should only be slightly more involved... but not too complicated... Perform the fore-mentioned manuver... Just remember to unbolt the chrome stick from the nub and relocate so that the chrome stick is curved towards the back of the vehicle.... In the "grand scheme" of things I would guess that havinng the off set to the passenger's side is no huge deal... In the long run the bushings may wear a little pre-mature than if the unit was lined up "square/perpendicular to" with the linkage... I doubt, you'd feel a whole heck of a difference though....



rex05,

I wish someone had posted that link earlier... It's one good article...



uofh2005,

I'd say your problem is correlated to the fact that your installer may have followed the earlier version of the Hurst provided instructions... This moved the stick position over more to the left (driver's side) more than the design intended... This will be easy to diagnose... lift up the shifter boot - if the bolt heads that connect the chrome handle to the stck shaft are on the left (diver's side) then the unit is installed backwards (offset to the passenger's side) this likely explains the wear???... The fix should be fairly easy.... See my reply to pjdami above.... good luck...


kk//kef

pjdami

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(freyke @ February 28, 2006, 7:09 PM) Quoted post</div><div class='quotemain'>


I'd say your problem is correlated to the fact that your installer may have followed the earlier version of the Hurst provided instructions... This moved the stick position over more to the left (driver's side) more than the design intended... This will be easy to diagnose... lift up the shifter boot - if the bolt heads that connect the chrome handle to the stck shaft are on the left (diver's side) then the unit is installed backwards (offset to the passenger's side) this likely explains the wear???... The fix should be fairly easy.... See my reply to pjdami above.... good luck...
kk//kef
[/b][/quote]

Man, now I'm confused. Mine is installed with the offset to the passenger side per the original Hurst instructions. However, the bolt heads are on the passenger side too. If I remember correctly, the top nub and the bottom offset thingy turn together right?

I wonder if Hurst changed the design of this shifter hence the new instructions?

freyke, I used a gasket between the chrome stick and the nub to help minimize a vibration problem at 3,000 rpms. Any vibrations with your Hurst? Some of us are still fighting this slight annoyance. The inner tube rubber may be better than the hard gasket I used.

Hmmm, if I rotate the offset around, I'll have to mess with the 13 mm nut and red loctite. I should have used the blue loctite. I wonder if I can muscle the 13 mm off with the red loctite or will I have to heat it up.