Hp hp hp
Hp hp hp
I know this has got to be posted all over the place but I drive a 06 gt. Currently im running pypes axle back, sct tuner and jlt cai. My goal is to be at 350 rwhp. Now I might have 350 to the crank but thats not what im going for. Can anyone give me bolt on advice to get me here? I can't afford s/c or turbo
I have 337rwhp. Nothing but bolt ons. Mods are
Steeda charge motion delete plates
Bbk throttle body
Airaid cold air intake
Steeda underdrive pulleys
Pypes full length headers w/ catless x pipe
Pypes violator mufflers
Sct tune
Ford racing hot rod cams
3.73 rear gear
1 piece aluminum drive shaft
Steeda charge motion delete plates
Bbk throttle body
Airaid cold air intake
Steeda underdrive pulleys
Pypes full length headers w/ catless x pipe
Pypes violator mufflers
Sct tune
Ford racing hot rod cams
3.73 rear gear
1 piece aluminum drive shaft
Originally Posted by Gtpony325
I have 337rwhp. Nothing but bolt ons. Mods are
Steeda charge motion delete plates
Bbk throttle body
Airaid cold air intake
Steeda underdrive pulleys
Pypes full length headers w/ catless x pipe
Pypes violator mufflers
Sct tune
Ford racing hot rod cams
3.73 rear gear
1 piece aluminum drive shaft
Steeda charge motion delete plates
Bbk throttle body
Airaid cold air intake
Steeda underdrive pulleys
Pypes full length headers w/ catless x pipe
Pypes violator mufflers
Sct tune
Ford racing hot rod cams
3.73 rear gear
1 piece aluminum drive shaft
I havent had to have the emissions done yet but the way it works in illinois they just plug into the computer and runs a diagnostic to see if there are any codes stored. When i had the car tuned i had the rear 02 sensors turned off so the code wouldnt show up. Should pass just the way it sits
Originally Posted by Gtpony325
I havent had to have the emissions done yet but the way it works in illinois they just plug into the computer and runs a diagnostic to see if there are any codes stored. When i had the car tuned i had the rear 02 sensors turned off so the code wouldnt show up. Should pass just the way it sits
I do believe you should be able to turn them off on your own. I had mine turned off when i had it tuned. I know that you said that you wanted to make 350rwhp but depending on what your budget is it could take quite awhile to get there. Parts for our cars are still expensive.
Originally Posted by Gtpony325
I do believe you should be able to turn them off on your own. I had mine turned off when i had it tuned. I know that you said that you wanted to make 350rwhp but depending on what your budget is it could take quite awhile to get there. Parts for our cars are still expensive.
I not absolutely sure , but I don't believe you can use the tuner to turn them off your self. Who ever did your tune will need to turn them off and load that into our tuner and then you reload the tune ...
Originally Posted by 05YellowGT
I not absolutely sure , but I don't believe you can use the tuner to turn them off your self. Who ever did your tune will need to turn them off and load that into our tuner and then you reload the tune ...
I know my friend tood his for emissions without his cats on and he passed with the rear 02 sensors turned off. I do have my stock mid pipe also just in case i do fail my emissions test
Originally Posted by Gtpony325
I know my friend tood his for emissions without his cats on and he passed with the rear 02 sensors turned off. I do have my stock mid pipe also just in case i do fail my emissions test
Originally Posted by karman
TBS=NO
UDP=YES
But if you save your money for a blower don't bother with either.
UDP=YES
But if you save your money for a blower don't bother with either.
Originally Posted by Gtpony325
I have under drive pulleys. As far as i kno they dont really free up that much power. Same goes for the throttle body spacer. Doesnt really free up any horsepower that i know of.
350 whp is my goal as well, you will need almost every basic bolt on to get there:
That should put you very close to 350, but you might still be 10 hp or so short, depending on your tune and how aggressive your cams are. (and depending on the dyno)
You could always get a throttle body or electric water pump to get the couple of extra HP. If you really wanted to be sure, ported heads ($$$$) will get you there along with all of the above.
Oh yeah, don't forget safely putting that power down and slowing down with all that extra go. Suspension, Brakes, and Tires will all be important to...
- You already have the intake and tuner.
- Under Drive Pullies (they DO make 5-8 hp) ($200)
- Charge Motion Delete Plates (another 5-8) ($250)
- Long Tube Headers ($500-$1200)
- X or H pipe to go with the headers, you can get this with or without cats, for max hp without cats is best, and depending on who you ask, a X pipe might get you 1 or 2 extra HP over an H. ($200-450)
- The best Cams you can afford (many options here, some require much more investment in terms of installation {Springs Required vs. No Springs Required}, but will get you a couple more precious HP) ($600-$900 + $$$ for installation)
- A very good tune with the highest octane gas you can get (hopefully 93) ($300-600)
That should put you very close to 350, but you might still be 10 hp or so short, depending on your tune and how aggressive your cams are. (and depending on the dyno)
You could always get a throttle body or electric water pump to get the couple of extra HP. If you really wanted to be sure, ported heads ($$$$) will get you there along with all of the above.
Oh yeah, don't forget safely putting that power down and slowing down with all that extra go. Suspension, Brakes, and Tires will all be important to...



