This one guy told me that you can lift the front much higher when accelerating by removing front swaybar and adding a adjustable rear upper control arm.
Well I think that it would give me more traction wich I could use.....
Any body that could tell me if im right or wrong?

 

Removing the front swaybar is a very common practice. However, it's done at the track. You can drive it without the swaybar on the street, but it's not very comfortable doing any kind of hard cornering.

Q1A rear adjustable shocks would help a lot as well. Rear LCA's with relocation brackets, especially if lowered, would help too. If not lowered, then a set of CJPony drag springs would also help a lot at the track.

Do you want drivability on the street with occasional drag duties or drag use with occasional street duty?

 

Its a daily drive so I use it on the street the most and ocasional drag racing

 

Also add about another 300rwhp to your car.

 

what you can do is get the support bar from Steeda that allows you to keep the swaybar but still lose some weight off the front and you can also swap out the control arms in the rear for something stronger.

 

In addition to QA1s, sway bar, extra hp... you could move the heavy battery from the nose of the car to the rear. All depends on how important this is to you.

My car launching with QA1s, sway bar delete, and quite a bit of extra hp. Focus on new build has not been more hp, but weight loss and weight redistribution.

 

Dem that looks nice,what setup you have and how much hp are you running?

 

That pic was taken with the old build:
302 stroker, 76mm turbo at 22 lbs boost, 4r70w 3 speed automatic with transbrake, fore triple pumps, 9 inch rear, spool

New build (cratered the above 302)
Rebuilt 302, same 76 turbo (aiming at 25+ lbs boost), GM 2 speed automatic (powerglide), 5 gallon fuel cell, same rear + spool, 3.50 gears. About 400 lbs lighter now.

All the above changes are finished. As far rwhp....can only guess. Horsepower numbers are not something we dwell on. Car is built for dragracing...not dynoracing...lol

As far as lifting front wheels. Got to be careful to not lift too much. Waste energy moving vehicle upward instead of forward and what goes up comes down pretty hard

pic of rebuilt motor

 

Thats an awsome setup,Im planing on getting atleast forged internals and getting a supercharger with atleast 14 PSI,what time are you currently running?

 

Mid 10s for bracket racing
http://s149.photobucket.com/albums/s...t=bracket2.mp4

Consistent 10.0s until motor went bye-bye. Looking to up boost a tad and with 400 lbs weight loss, should be mid 9s. Not a street car anymore.
http://s149.photobucket.com/albums/s...ow10s_0001.mp4

 

Just watched the videos,you sure have a mean beast,how much money does it aprox take to get there?

 

If you have to ask..... lol

 

More than it is worth. Did it once...had fun...learned a lot, but will never mod a vehicle to this degree again. Viper will never see a dragstrip nor dynomachine...lol.

Not just the cost of rebuilding entire vehicle, but constant repairs and maintenance. I put at least 50K into it, may be closer to 60-70...not sure...don't want to know. The speed shop came in on it as my sponsor. Huge fun factor but in the end car was in the shop more than on the strip. Speed shop wanted it...sold it to them. An experience I will never forget nor want to repeat...lol

 

Thats what I wanted to hear , Im already spending thousands and der comes somebody that beats you anyway,and after every single mod you get the sensors get nutts, and like yu said its more at the shop then at da strip,now imagine that for a daily driver,it just doesnt work,maybe Ill just buy me a GT500 and leave it the way it comes and be happy for it... In your case a Viper