H8IMPORTS

killer times what all do you have done to your car?

Also your 60's are 1.8 and my 60's are low 1.7s with stock springs and a BMR upper and a J&M lowers. Hope thar helps.

shaun_beauchamp

Thank you everyone. I really appreciate the input. Seems everyone has a different method of building the car, but everyone seems to be successful.

Right now I have 3.73 gears and a factory 5-spd trans. I have Steeda LCAs with CHE relocation brackets. I have Steeda Comp springs, CHE panhard bar, CHE K-member brace with torque limiters. I run Eagle F1 255/45/WR18s on factory polished Bullitt wheels.

I have a C&L racer intake and DiabloSport Predator with 93 octane race tune. I have UDPs and an FRPP strut tower brace.

I put slotted and drilled rotors and upgraded pads along with brake fluid for our local racetrack, Road America. This car started out as an occassional racetrack track day car.

It wasn't until I took it to the drag strip that I felt the car wasn't quick enough. I plan to leave the car corner carving biased, but it would be nice to run mid 12s.

From what you guys are saying, cams seem to be a good option. I may also have to look into an X pipe and some high flow cats. I will definitely need some ET streets or some big and littles for straight lining the car, but it would be nice to have it in street trim and run 12s.

I really don't want to mess with the exhaust because the sound right now is so nice. I have the 55506 Cherry Bomb Extreme axle backs and I love the sound. I bought them because they were cheap and I like the tips, but they sound awesome on an otherwise stock car.

Keep the comments coming. The Winter in WI is LONG and I love to plan things out for Spring.

NastyStang113

It's not just motor and suspension, tires are critical. I'm not saying this is you but I see more people asking what to do for traction in regards to LCAs, Brackets, etc but are running on some podunk street tires. It's like come on man!

Five Oh Brian

But, my car hooks up great already with no tire spin.

Five Oh Brian

If I had wheelhop, then I would change the control arms, but I get no wheelhop at all, and the car dead hooks with drag radials. I wonder if having an automatic transmission in my car is helping it launch with less drama?

Five Oh Brian

Thanks. Mods are in my signature, but I really haven't done much. Really mild Vortech V2 blower that is NOT intercooled so the tune is very conservative (14 degrees total timing at WOT is all it tolerates). 4.10 gears, 4800 rpm stall converter, and catted X-pipe help make the most out of the relatively mild 364 rwhp. The drag radials are BFG 275/40/17's mounted on factory Bullitt 17x8 wheels. Everything else is 100% factory stock. I credit the good ET's to the guy who did the dyno tuning - John Garner at the Horsepower Ranch in Maple Valley, WA. Not only tuned the blower's needs, but also the trans line pressure, shift points, & converter lock up points.

I'm guessing you can launch harder to the sixty foot line because you have a manual trans vs my automatic. My best 60' was a 1.797, but all others are in the 1.80-1.85 range very consistently.

H8IMPORTS

In this thread I don't see sig's for some reason??? Ok, you are supercharged. AWESOME! I wish I was. My best 60 ft was a 1.731. That was still chirping the tires for about 40 ft out. I lauched at 5,000 rpms. Any thing less than 4,500 rpms would just bog the motor down. I was on 26x11.50x15's. My car hooks pretty hard. On my stock suspension I cut 1.95's 60 ft on the stock 17"s that came factory on the car.

Five Oh Brian

I launch at 4,800 rpm's (that's the flash speed of the stall converter I'm using). You're correct that less rpm's don't work well in our heavy cars. I think that a lot of people are afraid to launch that aggressively and/or don't have enough traction to pull it off, and many people can't get their 60' times under 2.0 seconds.

ManEHawke

I launch well passed 5000 (5500ish) with 14 PSI tires, gotta make the most of my 3.55's. I get similar 60fts, low 1.8's
I was getting the same 60fts before changing out control arms.

shaun_beauchamp

The fact I run a radial street tire with a stiff suspension that give almost NO weight transfer is what kills my 60' times. I must say though that it is awesome on a road course!

rony1976

Well, if you take 2 cars:
- A stock car (no engine/suspension mods)
- A stock car (no engine mods) with suspension upgrades

Which one do you think it's going to win? Wether you fully understand or not how they interact (which there are threads in this forum that explain it), it's clear there are combination of parts that although won't add HP, they will help you run faster. Crazy, hu?

Here's a list of entry level "improvements" that can benefit your car and net you faster 1/4 mile times:

- LCAs (adjustable or fixed) w/reloc brackets (weld them, specially with forced induction)
- Adjustable UCA w/mount
- Adjustable rear shocks

Cost should be (according to BMR) under $1k. If you shop around, you can get some unbelievable deals out there. I paid $2400 and got the equivalent of a BMR Level 2 handling package + aluminum DS w/front safety loop, adj UCA w/mount, Steeda HD strut mounts, Koni adjustables and FAYS2 Watts Link. Most people do not have the patience to shop around, so they overpay to some of these vendors, but the deals are out there, if you are patient.

Five Oh Brian

My car sucks in the twisties (no low end power out of the corners and lots of body roll complements of the factory suspension and tall tires). Truly a one-trick-pony.

Five Oh Brian

Totally understand that it's more than adding power that lowers ET's. In my case, that's why I've maximized my lack of power with 4.10's, big stall converter, and drag radials. Didn't add any power with these three mods, but maximized the effectiveness of the minimal power that I already had with them.

The problem I have with modding my 07 GT's suspension is this: I've done so in the past with good results on previous cars I've owned that didn't transfer weight well and/or hopped badly on launch. However, my 07 GT transfers weight very well, hooks up very well, and doesn't hop at all. So, what benefit will I see with replacing the factory pieces which appear to already be doing an excellent job at the dragstrip with my particular setup? Like the old saying goes: "if it ain't broke, don't fix it."

forensicsteve

We had consistent 1.4s short times, end of last year. During this year's total rebuild, our focus has included weight reduction (the powerglide alone is at least 100 lbs lighter than the 4r we had). Once car is back at the strip, focus will include less vertical launch (looks good but lots of energy used in pushing car up instead of forward.)

rony1976

You'll see untapped performance. Stock performs well, the aftermarket parts will unleash a different beast.

d_bone33

Can anyone look at my current list of mods, and tell me about how much rwhp and rwtq i am running, also, about what my track times would be if i was a **** good drag stripper?
I am currently deployed, and i am so curious.....
and also if someone could tell me about where i would be after all this:

Decent cams
Long tube headers
x pipe
high flow cats
and a kenne bell mammoth

anteyeiabazele

What's the top rwhp that can be attained on a N/A auto 05+ with all possible bolt on mods?

anteyeiabazele

I'm guessing well over 500

Five Oh Brian

I'm still not understanding how. If my car hooks up perfectly how with no hop, will aftermarket parts make my car hook up more perfectly somehow? The aftermarket is great at fixing shortcomings and deficiencies with factory parts, but what if there isn't a shortcoming in the first place? Or, am I just really dense and missing something here?

Once I add enough more power, I suspect traction & hop issues will arise and I'll have to address suspension upgrades then, but in the mean time I just don't understand there to be any tangible benefit to replacing factory pieces.

H8IMPORTS

http://www.cnlperformance.com/images/5.jpg

With longtube Headers, Cams, C&L Intake, C&L Racer CAI, Whipple Single blade TB, stall convertor, off road exhaust should put you upwars of 350ish to the wheels. I would say. The dyno sheet above it a straight shift and it put 372 to the ground.

Hope that helps.