black sunshine

Willie, I may have to go this route. I'm good with a computer so I have to fear from the pc aspect of this. Are you using the "Pro Racer" software? Do you know where I can buy just the software. I already own a flash device. What I don't unerstand with the tune is that my car is all stock except for the Steeda CAI. Ford has one generic program that they put on their cars (manul vs auto) those "oem" tunes are cookie cutter but they work. Why is it that mail order tunes from Bama or Brenspeed are subject to pinging or whatever on stock cars???

howarmat

They run the parameters alot higher for better performance....pinging can occur with them but then you just have to back the spark/timing down a notch is all. You are right the oem cookie cutters work becuase they arent that aggressive at all....hell i barely noticed a difference with the canned diablo tune, but bama/vmp/tillman/brenspeed tunes all have respsonded great with my car and flat out kick *** compared to stock or the canned tunes.

theedge67

Matt: You mention that you have had tunes from several of the reputable vendors. Can you tell us what tunes you liked the best, or if there was not much difference??

howarmat

Really there is not a whole lot of difference. They are all very good, each has its own little flavor...brenspeed pulls more in 2nd than bamas does but bamas pulls harder in 3rd than the others. You will not be dissappointed in any tune that you get from these guys IMO.

black sunshine

The tune I have is from one of the big names on this forum and it wakes the car up, no question, the car rips
with the 93 tune. But if I go WOT in pings like an SOB and I know the gas is good. I just need to work through the issues but I can't help but wonder what sensors and parameters have been changed. Just becuase you don't here pinging doesn't mean it's not there detonation does not have to be audible. That's one of the things I'm worried about. I need to get this machine on a dyno.

Willie

....Are you using the "Pro Racer" software? Do you know where I can buy just the software. I already own a flash device.

Yes. I believe all SCT dealers can sell the software. I think today's going price for the software alone is $349. Shop around. Having a licensed copy gives you some privileges. You can request access to SCT's Pro Racer forum. There's some good stuff on there not available to everyone else. I also recommend buying a training video from:

http://www.lasotaracing.com/

It will definitely give you a major head start in creating your own tune files, tweaking and datalogging tips and tricks.

Willie

Clark Kent

so Mark I advanced my timing 2 degrees on my 93 tune because I use 94 octane gas. SO even if im not hearing anything it could still possibly damagaing my engine. I dont reallly feel any power cut except a few times, but i think that may be another problem mentioned here on the forum. Im not even sure what kind of pinging I should be listening for. Would it be noticeably audible?

SoundGuyDave

Like you, I also ran into a tune problem with a well-known tuner (name with-held) after adding in a set of Steeda CMCV delete plates. The car just didn't feel right, with no top-end pull at all. After getting on the dyno, I was able to generate a MAX of 190HP, with an AFR exceeding 18.0! I had customer-service issues with the tuner, and had requested a tune from Doug at Bama, which I loaded into the car prior to the next run (arrived the morning of the dyno session), which netted 260HP, and STILL had a very lean AFR. I emailed Doug the dyno sheet, and within 24hrs, had a tune update, along with a request to datalog a number of parameters for him, including AFR from my (installed IMMEDIATELY after the dyno run!) Wideband Commander. I sent him the datalogs, and he updated the tune file within a couple of days. We're on our fourth or fifth iteration of changes, and the tune is REALLY coming together.

I need to stress here, that the CAI setup (90MM lighting MAF, stock sensor, and Saleen Extreme intake tube) are pieces that Doug has NEVER seen in combination before, so the back-and-forth is not normal, but an example of what a good custom tuner can (and should) do...

I THINK that the next version will be the final one, unless Doug wants more data. Right now, the car pulls very hard from idle all the way to redline, the AT shifts hard enough to wiggle the rear end (285/40-18 Nitto 555s!) going into second, and chirp firmly hitting third. Drivability is excellent, in all RPM ranges. If you mystery tuner is Doug, drop him an email, I feel confidant that he will help you out, especially if you can datalog for him, with AFR. If you mystery tuner is NOT Doug, then drop him an email anyway. $75 for a tune is cheap when it comes down to it. MY mystery tuner was charging $175 for the same service.

IF you don't have a wideband that can feed your tuner to allow datalogging, then that's the next thing you NEED to do. Even if you're bang-on perfect, the peace of mind will be worth it. If you're not, then that will really help your tuner dial in to the specific adjustments that need to be made.

In the end, I really can't say enough about Doug's tuning, AND his customer service. Yes, it takes him a couple days or more to respond on occasion, but so what? He's still better at getting me what he promised than my former tuner who answered the phone instantly...

wallace

i've said this before... remember, no such thing as blind trust. if you have a mail order tune, buy the necessary equiptment to be sure you're safe and get your tuner the right info., if needed. like sound guy said. "peace of mind". with every car being different you should expect a little trial and error.

65sohc

I know a lot of guys get their mailorder tunes dyno-tweaked locally and have mentioned pulling out one of the O2 sensors to insert the wideband sensor. Which O2 sensor do you pull? Does the wideband screw into the hole or is it just a probe that fits loosely? Wouldn't temporarily removing an O2 sensor cause the engine to run bad and throw a CEL?

brown spit8

mail order tunes are unreliable. my bamachips tune made my car stall upon idle , shoot black smoke, and it was unable to run for weeks. i finally got it towed to a performance shop. the tune from doug was running EXTREMELY lean. dyno tunes in my opinion are the ONLY way to go about tuning these cars. not to mention customer service was lack luster with bamachips. he had no idea what to do about my car.

SoundGuyDave

On the dyno, we pulled one of my rear O2 sensors, which the computer uses to monitor cat efficiency. No impact on the vehicles computer at WOT, like it is on the dyno. I chose to add an extra exhaust bung on the drivers side down-tube, just after the manifold flange for a permanent wideband installation. There are two ways to get the wideband into the exhaust on a dyno. First, and best, is to either replace one of your stock units or add in a bung, and screw in a wideband sensor. Second is to use a tailpipe probe. The probe will read somewhat leaner that the engine is truly running, but it's not all that far off.

Kobie

I have the Steeda CAI and Steeda program. This is the only tune I have tried so I have nothing else to compare it to. All I can say is there is a HUGE performance increase and the car runs as smooth as stock. When I install the CMDP's I will use their updated program for that mod as well. I'm not sure I want to try someone elses tunes or not.

wallace

if you're happy w/ your tune then there's no reason to jump from tune/tuner hoping for something because someone else is thrilled about the guy... because unless you are on a dyno (proper tuning) whats 2 or 3 hp... all of these cars were built on the same assembly line and there are no factory freaks and tuner a.b. or c. can only get so much out of these cars before putting your engine in danger. it's good to gather info. then make an educated decision, and once you've done that... be happy.

howarmat

I have to completely disagree with you....there are very few people that run into problems....as stated before I have run pretty much everyones and never had any problems at all. The majority of people have no problems though, you only hear about the ones that dont work because if it works, not everyone is going to make a post to say...."wow, the tune worked just like it should have."

Everyones car is different and reacts differently. You are in the minority that had problems. Dyno tunes are the best but that is not an otion for everyone, especially when you add a few mods here and there and then have to go back everytime. Good dyno tuners are few and far between. I would trust Doug or Brent before some of the hacks out there that do tuning.

sycd

I noticed a pretty big diff between Bamachip Torq tune and Brenspeed. The torq is a monster on the low-end Brenspeed tune is great too, it just depends where you want to make the most power.

wallace

true

06GT

+1
I have the Brenspeed 91 octane tune. I notice some soot in the pipes, but nothing serious. The performance advantage is undeniable, I noticed an immediate increase in power and throttle response, and I dropped almost 1/2 a second off of my 1/4 mile time.

For 600$ (tune + CAI), you can't beat that.

Big Poppa

Like Kobie, I have the Steeda tune and CAI. I have had no problems, pings, or CEL's. I do have sootie exhaust pipes which would indicate a rich condition but from what I have read here thats not so bad in itself.

SoundGuyDave

One thing you can do to give you peace of mind (and this is for free!) is to datalog a hard run or two... log RPM, Load, spark, spark source, MAF counts, and throttle position. When you look at your log, pay particular attention to the "spark source" number, as this is an indicator of what factor the computer is using to make your timing adjustment... spark source value of 4 indicates that the computer is pulling timing due to pre-ignition (detonation). If you suddenly see your timing drop, and you have a spark source value of 4, you'll know you have issues that need to be resolved.

If you think your fuel ratio is off, then also datalog STFT (short-term fuel trim) and LTFT (long-term fuel trim) for banks one and two, and take a look at those. They will tell you if the car is running lean or rich, compared to the commanded AF ratio as determined by the tune. STFT values under 1.000 indicate a lean condition (expressed in percentage from 1.000), while over indicates a rich condition (also expressed in percentage from 1.000). LTFT are scaled the other way, with values under 1.000 indicating rich, and over 1.000 indicating lean.

Best is to include a wideband O2 sensor reading as well, but that won't be free if you don't already have one installed.