Well, UPS (as usual) didnt drop these off to me until just before sun down so I'll have to install them at first light this next morning. I will be posting some install pics and an audio/video clip when Im all done.







They are super light, weighing in at 13 lbs each. As you can see I purchased the Ceramic Coated SuperComps, the finish is sweet. The build quality is as good as ever with these Hookers so I will leave you with this...
I love my Hooker Headers.

-Dan

 

Kewl... I can't wait to read (and hear) the results. Get a sound clip of the open headers before you button her up.

 

Oh heck yeah, was going to fire it up for the city to hear anyways.

-Dan

 

Where did you buy the headers?


Cant wait for vid/sound clip!!!

 

I wasnt supplied the O2 sensor extensions that I was promised so this "install" is going to have to wait till Monday/Tuesday to be finished.

I had too many issues come up today...

-Dan

 

Another note, the stock manifolds and cats weigh in @ about 42lbs. With the headers in their place, 16lbs are saved off the front end. There you have it, weight saving are all these long tubes are good for. :P

Long Tube Header Notes - My '05 Mustang

There is no need to remove the JLT Pipe or Filter. Its pretty easy to get at every single stock stud with a combination of a 3/8" Drive Ratcheting Socket Wrench, 10" Extension, 3/8" Drive Elbow and a 5mm Socket. The underside (lower studs) can be a bit less fun to get at but it can be done with the help of that Extension and Elbow and working your way through the openings in your front end suspension. You also may want to have a boxed ratcheting 5mm wrench around if you get frustrated with the Socket Wrench and tight places.

Both Manifolds can be pulled without removing the Starter or the Steering Linkage but you have to remove these anyways when installing the Headers.

Spray the bolts that hold the cats to the manifolds with WD40 before trying to remove them, those suckers are seized pretty well.

The Starter is also easy to remove as long as you do it from under and to the side of the engine (you may want to remove the passenger side wheel) and again with the Extension and Elbow. The 3rd bolt isnt tough either so have at it. Also, MAKE SURE YOU DONT GROUND THE STARTER'S 12V CONNECTION TO THE FRAME, you get sparkies and Im sure it isnt a good thing for the Starter.

The Steering Linkage is best pushed out of the way by disconnecting 1 bolt in the engine bay and 1 bolt under your steering column in the interior (both bolts require a 13mm Socket). This will actually allow you to compress your linkage so you can move in the new driverside Header.

The same tools that you used to remove the stock studs should be used to install the new Header Bolts but replace that 5mm Socket with a 13mm.

The Oxygen Sensors can be a female dog to remove due to seizure within the bung, spray with WD40 or similar loosener and use a large wrench combined with a mallet for to break it free and then unscrew with your fingers.

It helps to have a 2nd person around to help you guide in the gaskets and flanges. Small hands are a good thing to have around to catch those new Bolts onto their threads. Hand tighten till tight then use the hand tool of your choice, socket/elbow/extension combo or boxed ratcheting 13mm wrench.

If you want to cut your exhaust, first visit your local auto parts store to see if they have an exhaust cutter. Dont bother with an exhaust tubing expander unless you have some heavy duty power tools. I droped my H-Pipe off at a local shop to get it expanded so it could slip a 2.5" Collector inside, got charged $20 for that and a pair of clamps.

The car should be jacked up at least 20", 3' would be overkill and could result in some back injury from being in an akward hunch for several hours. Being on my back with only 2 jack stands on the front end was pretty comfortable even though I was laying on concrete for a total of 4 hours. You could raise the rear end with a jack or put it on stands so you have more angle to play with when pushing the Headers into position

I'll provide that Open Headers video/audio clip after first light and before I try to find someone to modify my midpipe's hangers so I can couple my exhaust together.

Lastly, I bought em from summitracing.
-Dan

 

I like hookers too

 

Looking at those header pics, it would be hard with the name tab removed to tell the difference between JBA and Hooker. I mean it looks as if they were built from the same plans, the only difference I can see is visible from the collector end. JBA had a "fire cone" that extends about 2" from where the pipes all come together.
I ran into the same problems you did as far as the steering linkage and the O2 extensions. My word of advice on the extensions is just buy front ones from Summit Racing and leave the rears in but not plugged in or get a plug for them. Your tuner should have the rear O2's turned off anyway.
Nice write up.

 

I need to find some O2 sensor extensions locally now since I dont want to wait till Tuesday. Im checking with a local dealer and speed shop to see if they have em.

My tune didnt have the rear sensors turned off btw.

-Dan

 

Can I just have my tuner turn off the rear oxygen sensors so I dont have to connect the harnesses? I'd rather not have to wait on a part to arrive on Tuesday.

Also, the batteries in my camera died so it'll be another day for the video/audio clip. This whole experience sucked. Im complaining to Holley and Hooker for a few things.

-Dan

 

Am I mistaken, but I can swear you can turn off the rear sensors yourself on the Handheld....I'm going out to check now!

Yes...I am mistaken :bang: Probably saw mention of it the manual.

Nice write-up Dan

Your tuner or DTP will able to turn those sensors off, if you don't want to hassle with extensions.

 

Yes, your tuner can turn off the rear sensors. You do not have to plug them into anything. Most performance tunes already turn off the rear sensors(mine were). I would run it. You might have your tuner richen up the mixture a little though. Mine needed another 12% at wide open throttle. I installed a Innovate air fuel sensor at the same time as my Header install. Also, it is a good idea to use anti-seze on the Header bolts.

 

Im just going to wait till Monday morning to drive the car, kinda have to wait anyways cause I have to visit my local exhaust shop so they can button up (my fault type errors) the stock H-Pipe. It doesnt align quite right with the collectors either.

How I understand it... I will have the rear sensor mounts pluged and I'll leave the harnesses non-hooked-up when I receive the new tune. Works for me.

If my family clears out I'll fire up the motor again in the morning and take that video a few of you are dying to watch.

-Dan

 

Part # please, I want them now....................

 

Yep, just leave them unplugged. I bought the JBA H pipe without cats. Looks like it would fit yours good also. Everything bolted up and lined up real good. You are going to love Longtubes on these cars. What ever muffler you run is going to be real loud. I am betting your rear sensors are already turned off. You might want to get to a dyno with a wideband soon. You are dying to take it for a drive open headers aren't you ?

 

video! video! video!

 

Just curious about how much you paid for the headers? Also, is there a difference between the Ceramic coated and the black painted as far as performance, or is it just the looks?

 

Waiting patiently for videos!!!

Would you do this self install again???

 

Okay, I loved my day today.

I woke up a bit earlier than I usually do so I could sneak under the car while it was parked halfway on the sidewalk. I still had to connect the mid pipe to the rest of the exhaust system.

I always sit down at my computer and check my email before I do anything else. I received my new tune ON A SUNDAY MORNING from Brent @ DTP, I didnt expect anything till Monday since he is supposed to have a rest day. I was thrilled and loaded the new tune with the rear sensors off and didnt worry about tightening the clamps and just pulled the plugs instead so they wouldnt drag on my drive to work.

YES, I DROVE THE CAR (WITH OPEN HEADERS) 5 MILES @ 35MPH TO WORK JUST TO TEST THE TUNE OUT.

On my lunch break I again parked the car up on a sidewalk and finally got to tightening the exhaust system so it wouldnt hang down and possibly hit the pavement. I still cant hook the collectors up to the H Pipe though.

I drove out of my store's parking lot really laying into the pedal for the first time and these pipes sound fricking sweet. If you have ever heard an old Ford Big Block with open headers you already know what my pipes sound like.

The pinging of the aluminum pipes when I took my foot off the pedal at about 3000 rpm down towards the collector was music to my ears. This engine really growls... screw SLP Loudmouths, this is the s.h.i.t.

I've taken it on the freeway and above 6000 too. MY NEW WOT SHIFT POINTS ARE 6495 1-2, 6495 2-3, and 6400 3-4 BTW.

I could go on forever with stories of my first open header experience with my own car but I'll just leave you all with this... I scared the living heck out of one woman walking on the sidewalk when I drove down a sidestreet, she jumped into somebody's side yard and almost looked comical. The look on her face with of pure terror! :P

I'll post that video clip in the morning, Im serious this time.

-Dan

 

Oh, and yes, I would do it again if I had better instructions to deal with. If I knew the instructions were that crappy I would have paid someone else a few hundred $$$ to do it for me. Let them get pissed off instead of me.

The cost is about $615 at summitracing with an $8 handling charge for shipping. From everything I've seen about the JBA Headers I would say these are by far superior in the fit department. I wont know for a week or two what the dyno will tell me though. I think they should be good for at least 15 though without any tune tweaking.

-Dan