kwjw64

I've done a decent amount of reading on the benefits of using fully synthetic oil, but I want to make sure I make a good decision before making the switch. I like that it offers better protection for longer engine life and increased power output, however, I have read one review that the fully synthetic oil breaks down quickly under heat and may cause more harm than good.

I've had my sights on using Royal Purple in my 06 Mustang GT. As of now, I am using Motorcraft Synthetic Blend oil.
My questions are these:
Should I make the switch?
If so, what do I need to know about making the switch?
Would using the Motorcraft filter be fine for fully synthetic oil?

Thank you!

bob

Thats the opposite of what I've read for many years. Synthetic oils usually tend to hold up better since the components the oil is manufactured from are better than oil cooked up from dead dino juice.

More importantly you should make sure the oil is the proper API rating for your vehicle. Oil formulations change based on industry requirements (seems like its mostly driven by the EPA) and using a fill that isn't rated for your app even though it is a great oil could damage the engine.

A good case in point were valvetrain failures on older flat tappet engines. People were filling with synthetic oils and having problems. It turned out that alot of oil had been reformulated with roller or low stress (read OHC) valvetrains in mind (as well as vehicle manufacturers making material changes) and the modern oils were causing rapid flat tappet wear.

Ministang

That would be incorrect. Any good full synthetic will stand up better under extreme heat than regular old dino oil.

Yes
Nothing really, just make the switch.
Absolutely

Onelildude

I just changed the oil in my '10 to Royal Purple and I'm using the Motorcraft filter with no problems. I've also read that using a full synthetic helps in the long run and with the oil change intervals stretched out farther than the 3k of the old generation I say why not use the best product out there.

metroplex

I've been using full synthetic for years. Just stick with the OEM oil filter and use 6 qt (or whatever the new capacity is for newer MY's) of synthetic.

There's a lot of argument/discussion about Group III vs Group IV base stocks, but I know that even a Group III synthetic at $4/qt is very good. Stick with the name brands:

Pennzoil Platinum or Ultra
Quaker State Q Synth
Mobil 1
Shell

Don't get too caught up on oil weights either. The OEM spec is 5W-20 but if you look at all the other high performance engines in the world, they generally run synthetic xW-40 or xW-50 oils. IIRC the Ford GT and GT500 use synthetic 5W-50, whereas the same 5.4L DOHC V8's in Australia run synthetic xW-40/xW-50 - yet the US spec is 5W-20 (even though we ship the engines from the US to Australia).

My Ducati runs 10W-40 or 15W-50 synthetic Shell, as do the other 4-stroke Ducati engines, but it has to meet JASO MA due to the friction modifiers that contaminate wet clutches. Some Ducati's have dry clutches so they can run car oils - the energy conserving label is actually bad juju for most bikes due to the friction modifiers.

For my cars, I buy one weight/spec of oil: Synthetic Mobil 1 5W-30 that meets GM 4718M (Corvette spec) because that is what GM requires for my SS Turbo. It also runs fine in my Ford engines.

Here is how you switch to synthetic:
Ditch old oil, use new synthetic

Do this as early as possible.

Glenn

How many miles do you plan on going between changes? Will you be doing alot of racing or is it just daily driving?

metroplex

Ford/GM claim 7500 miles on the dino 5W-30 and synth blend 5W-20, but I generally do not exceed 3000 miles on the dino juice, and do not exceed 7500 miles on the full synthetic. Audi/BMW cite 10,000 mile intervals (no time/month interval) with their full synthetics. Ducati cites 7500 miles / 1 year.

I change my oil at least once year, whether I hit the mileage or not.

kwjw64

I have just under 30K on the car now and I put anywhere from 3K to 6K per year now. I change the oil typically once a year due to low mileage driving. At first I drove the car a lot, but now it's not so much. It's just my summer time toy. I do go drag racing, but only a few times a year.

Glenn

I would say the ford part syn stufff would do the trick for you. They say you get a few more mpg's and maybe a hp or two along with a longer change interval over the part syn stuff. You don't have any of that to worry about. Change once a yr or x many miles with syn oil is advised from what I have read.

bob

That is correct, and I beleive the Boss runs 5w50 as well. IIRC Bob the Oil Guy (no relation , but a good website if your into oil) rated the Motorcraft FL-820S filter as topnotch.

If anybody cares to check, Ford's full syn 5w50 tends to do poorly in oil analysis when a virgin sample is sent it, yet does well when a used sample is sent for analysis. The concensous seems to be that the oil sits for a good long while (not that many GT500s and Ford GTs on the road) and components in the additive package fall out of suspension, however when it reaches the oil pan and is circulated through the engine the additive package gets mixed in again.

godspunk32

I've been running Mobil 1 5W-30 in mine for about 18k miles. The car runs much more smoothly, and I typically go 12k miles or 1 year between changes. I use K&N filters for the car, since I go for a longer time between changes, but a Motorcraft filter would be great, as would a Mobil 1, Wix, or PureOne. I just like the K&N because it's got a bolt on the end for easy removal.

JR

jaguarking11

Just an FYI

Most dyno oils start breaking down in the 230degree range. Thats basicaly operating temp for a modern engine.

If you use 5-20 as recomended weight synthetic the oil lasts much longer during normal use. Simply because the oil does not start breaking down until the 280degree range.

If you are racing the stang or are forced inducted. I personaly would run minimaly a 5-30 synth, depending on the use of the engine maybe a 40 or even 50 weight may be necesary. The thicker the oil is at operating temp the more it protects at higher temps. As temps go up the oil thins out until it gets too hot and oil presure drops to nothing due to it becoming as thin as water and the pump cant pump it, or cooks up and causes engine failure.

I currently use penzoil platinum 5-20 because I find it cheep when there are sales and I stock up, it also seems to resist allot better than the same weight mobil 1 full synth for my uses. I change my oil 2-3 times a year, about every 5k. I would not be afraid to do a 7500mile change on it either. But I change every 5k or 6months. Speaking of which Im about due for another change.

sinisterbullitt

12 thousand miles? I'm sorry but I run an oil shop an that is bad. Idc what Ford or anyone else says 3 thousand or at the most 5 without harsh driving. Seems like as soon as there's an oil shortage motor companies say go anywhere from 10 to 15 k on an oil change an That's a shame.... I've changed mine at 2k because it was dirty. every one has their own preferences but once that motor gets gunked up Its gunked up for good. I see 2010 BMW's come in with 10k getting their first oil changes with clots an jet black oil coming out. Its sad really. Its been 3k for as long as cars were around and it worked fine why change now??? I'm not being a jerk but please guys atleast check your oil at 3k to make sure its still clean. What's 60 bucks matter when your talking about your mustang.. 3 months or 3k IMO. An if you have some good mileage on your car an you switch to royal purple you might have problems with seals rotting. Personal experience. It has a lot if detergents in it. Don't get mad I'm just trying to share what I've picked uo over the years

Len

If changing your oil at 2,000 or 3,000 gives you peace of mind then do it but imo, unless your engine has a problem, you're throwing out perfectly good oil. The best way to determine if your oil is bad or if you're changing your oil too soon is to send a sample here
http://www.blackstone-labs.com/
the cost is less than an oil change and will give you a good idea of the state of your engine.

mike05gt

I have run Amsoil in all my vehicles for many years, great product

Everett

Best oil on the market

ford4v429

search 'frantz oil cleaner'.
they use these on heavy equipment, NEVER change the oil...just change the filters and top it off- oil looks new years later.
I first heard of these from a 70 year old guy over at fordmuscle.com with a 64 galaxie 390 police motor...although it still ran fine, he rebuilt it at 280,000(IIRC) miles back in the 80's just due to its age- that was the cars FIRST and only oil change to date...every 2000 miles he swaps the toiletpaper filter, and puts back however much oil it had in it- zero sludge, oil clear as new decades later.
his Dad was a dealer for those filters back when he bought the 64 new- the original version he has replaces the factory filter completely, which voided new car warranties at the time- but since the late 60's they sandwich under the stock fullflow filter to maintain warranty.
after hearing about these, read up on them- yes, they work, big equipment that uses drums of oil almost always have tem- and no more oil changes...always clean oil, and <$5 filter changes/topoffs...no idea if its synthetic friendly or not.

I run RP synchromax in my tranny after frying 2nd synchro at the track, son of a gun if it didnt 'fix' the transmission enough not only to still drive it, but to get away with powershifting again the 5w20 is so thin, I'm chicken to change from the recommended motocraft stuff...have heard of some engines seeping a little synthetic- read something about the smaller molecules seeping past seals that wouldnt normally leak- sounded like bs to me, but who knows...

after reading up on them, I'd have a Frantz filter and a accusump-like accuumulator on all 8 of our cars - if I wasnt car poor
Tim

Everett

Amsoil has a by-pass system I have in my truck. I do the same thing. Just top up after the filter changes. It has 300k and runs as good as new.

GTCS 2k9

I am a firm believer of running the synthetic oils. The one characteristic I have noticed about the synthetic is that it seems to darken sooner compared to the dino oils. Not sure why that is. So changing your synthetic oil because it looks dark may be premature. I just go by the traditional intervals ( time/ mileage).

Everett

Detergents clean better so they are taking any residue and disolving them.