Help needed installing AFR/Boost/Fuel pressure gauges sensors and sender units
#1
Mach 1 Member
Thread Starter
Help needed installing AFR/Boost/Fuel pressure gauges sensors and sender units
i got the Autometer Nexus AFR on the way, and currently have the Autometer Nexus Boost/Vaccum, Water temp, and Fuel pressure
can someone please guide me as to where the sender units for these gauges could practically be installed on our cars?
i noticed today while the car is jacked up that i have two unused ports right around the middle of each catalytic convertor (we don't have rear O2 sensors) and thought we could use these for the wideband AFR, rather than drilling a hole elsewhere along the exhaust.. but then i heard that that won't work, as the sensor should be before the cats (between the headers and cats)
similarly for the fuel pressure sensor.. i figure that should be mounted somewhere along the fuel line, but where is a good convenient place to do so?
thanks guys
can someone please guide me as to where the sender units for these gauges could practically be installed on our cars?
i noticed today while the car is jacked up that i have two unused ports right around the middle of each catalytic convertor (we don't have rear O2 sensors) and thought we could use these for the wideband AFR, rather than drilling a hole elsewhere along the exhaust.. but then i heard that that won't work, as the sensor should be before the cats (between the headers and cats)
similarly for the fuel pressure sensor.. i figure that should be mounted somewhere along the fuel line, but where is a good convenient place to do so?
thanks guys
#2
My NEXUS Wideband should be here tomorrow, so after I see the entire kit, I should be able to let you know about how to install it.
You should get a bung welded before the cat, if you are running a catted mid pipe/headers.
If you have an off road setup, your rear o2 bungs would work fine.
Since you have a Whipple, you'll likely have to tap into the fuel crossover line. This has been debated before, and that's the only feasible way. You can't really tap into the rails unless you install them backwards or go aftermarket. All of the Fuel Rail Access Kits hit the intake tube so you can't use one of those.
The boost line will just tap into a vacuum line.
You should get a bung welded before the cat, if you are running a catted mid pipe/headers.
If you have an off road setup, your rear o2 bungs would work fine.
Since you have a Whipple, you'll likely have to tap into the fuel crossover line. This has been debated before, and that's the only feasible way. You can't really tap into the rails unless you install them backwards or go aftermarket. All of the Fuel Rail Access Kits hit the intake tube so you can't use one of those.
The boost line will just tap into a vacuum line.
#3
Mach 1 Member
Thread Starter
all done (but AFR)
i got the water temp gauge sender bolted into the whipple water cross.. just removed the purge valve and put the sensor in.. it fit right in
the boost gauge was tapped into the boost line running to the bypass actuator
for the fuel pressure sensor, we welded a braket onto the end of the fuel rail that allows the sensor to be bolted in smoothly.. works like a charm
i got the water temp gauge sender bolted into the whipple water cross.. just removed the purge valve and put the sensor in.. it fit right in
the boost gauge was tapped into the boost line running to the bypass actuator
for the fuel pressure sensor, we welded a braket onto the end of the fuel rail that allows the sensor to be bolted in smoothly.. works like a charm
#4
all done (but AFR)
i got the water temp gauge sender bolted into the whipple water cross.. just removed the purge valve and put the sensor in.. it fit right in
the boost gauge was tapped into the boost line running to the bypass actuator
for the fuel pressure sensor, we welded a braket onto the end of the fuel rail that allows the sensor to be bolted in smoothly.. works like a charm
i got the water temp gauge sender bolted into the whipple water cross.. just removed the purge valve and put the sensor in.. it fit right in
the boost gauge was tapped into the boost line running to the bypass actuator
for the fuel pressure sensor, we welded a braket onto the end of the fuel rail that allows the sensor to be bolted in smoothly.. works like a charm
Do you mind taking pics of that bracket for the fuel rail...This may help out a lot of people!
#7
Mach 1 Member
Thread Starter
i printed out the wiring diagram you sent me, and some 40 pages from the "Powertrain Control and Emissions Diagnosis" section of the workshop manual with pinpoint tests for the pump and driver modules.. then i fell asleep at my keyboard
just woke up 5 minutes back.. so i guess i'll be spending the morning in my trunk with the voltmeter
just woke up 5 minutes back.. so i guess i'll be spending the morning in my trunk with the voltmeter
#8
Mach 1 Member
Thread Starter
As promised..
following is the water temp sender installed on the water cross where the coolant purge valve used to be:
Attachment 22209
here's how the boost/vaccuum MAP sensor was hooked to the vaccum hose of the bypass actuator
Attachment 22210
and here's how i welded a bracket onto the fuel rail to mount the fuel pressure sensor
Attachment 22211
finally.. this is what the gauges look like in the Speed of Sound triple gauge pod during initialization (i've set the color to blue to match with my select MyColor dash color )
Attachment 22212
** Click on the images to enlarge them **
following is the water temp sender installed on the water cross where the coolant purge valve used to be:
Attachment 22209
here's how the boost/vaccuum MAP sensor was hooked to the vaccum hose of the bypass actuator
Attachment 22210
and here's how i welded a bracket onto the fuel rail to mount the fuel pressure sensor
Attachment 22211
finally.. this is what the gauges look like in the Speed of Sound triple gauge pod during initialization (i've set the color to blue to match with my select MyColor dash color )
Attachment 22212
** Click on the images to enlarge them **
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skythunder83 (8/24/19)
#10
Mach 1 Member
Thread Starter
By the way..
regarding the Wideband AFR sensor.. i've noticed my Catalytic convertors have a socket in the middle of them that's simply plugged with a bolt.
i've checked that on the workshop manual and that seems to be where the "Catalyst Monitor Sensor" should have been mounted.. but my car doesn't have them anyway, as it's been built up to different specs, to be sold overseas.
Can i use the socket in the middle of the Cat to mount my AFR sensor?
i was told this would cause my AFR gauge reading to be off, and that i'd have to drill and mount the sensor before the cats..
what's everyone's take on this?
i'd love to be able to reuse the same socket, as it's now plugged with a bolt doing nothing, rather than drill or weld the sensor elsewhere!
regarding the Wideband AFR sensor.. i've noticed my Catalytic convertors have a socket in the middle of them that's simply plugged with a bolt.
i've checked that on the workshop manual and that seems to be where the "Catalyst Monitor Sensor" should have been mounted.. but my car doesn't have them anyway, as it's been built up to different specs, to be sold overseas.
Can i use the socket in the middle of the Cat to mount my AFR sensor?
i was told this would cause my AFR gauge reading to be off, and that i'd have to drill and mount the sensor before the cats..
what's everyone's take on this?
i'd love to be able to reuse the same socket, as it's now plugged with a bolt doing nothing, rather than drill or weld the sensor elsewhere!
#11
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Location: Aston, PA
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By the way..
regarding the Wideband AFR sensor.. i've noticed my Catalytic convertors have a socket in the middle of them that's simply plugged with a bolt.
i've checked that on the workshop manual and that seems to be where the "Catalyst Monitor Sensor" should have been mounted.. but my car doesn't have them anyway, as it's been built up to different specs, to be sold overseas.
Can i use the socket in the middle of the Cat to mount my AFR sensor?
i was told this would cause my AFR gauge reading to be off, and that i'd have to drill and mount the sensor before the cats..
what's everyone's take on this?
i'd love to be able to reuse the same socket, as it's now plugged with a bolt doing nothing, rather than drill or weld the sensor elsewhere!
regarding the Wideband AFR sensor.. i've noticed my Catalytic convertors have a socket in the middle of them that's simply plugged with a bolt.
i've checked that on the workshop manual and that seems to be where the "Catalyst Monitor Sensor" should have been mounted.. but my car doesn't have them anyway, as it's been built up to different specs, to be sold overseas.
Can i use the socket in the middle of the Cat to mount my AFR sensor?
i was told this would cause my AFR gauge reading to be off, and that i'd have to drill and mount the sensor before the cats..
what's everyone's take on this?
i'd love to be able to reuse the same socket, as it's now plugged with a bolt doing nothing, rather than drill or weld the sensor elsewhere!
In order to get a reliable wideband AFR reading you must weld in an o2 sensor bung before the cats.
CR
#12
Mach 1 Member
Thread Starter
looking at the workshop manual, i see the Heated Oxygen Sensors are mounted just before the cats.. you think i'd have these on mine, or perhaps again an empty socket i can hopefully reuse?
#13
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But your upstream o2's are probably still in the PCM calibration and in use. The rear o2's are the ones that are not in the stock calibration for gulf cars, to my knowledge. Check to see if there are sensors screwed into these bungs. If they are, you will still have to weld another bung, as those o2's are funcitonal. If not... bingo!
#14
Mach 1 Member
Thread Starter
i'll put the car back up on the lift tomorrow to remove the LM-1 wideband sensor i had in the CAT for the past 4 days.. then will have a look around
btw.. check your PM/email please, i need some cable extensions for the AFR gauge
btw.. check your PM/email please, i need some cable extensions for the AFR gauge
#20
NEXUS Wideband Notes:
Here are some things you should look at when it comes to your NEXUS Wideband...
Existing NEXUS systems can use the new Wideband O2 gauge with a firmware update for the remote control. Firmware is available for download at: www.autometer.com or by contacting Auto Meter directly at 1-815-899-0801
So, if you have the 6400 Controller, you'll need to get the firmware upgrade to run this Wideband.
Matter of fact, the gauge won't even show power without the upgrade.
NEXUS has a new 12 channel controller that supposedly is "Wideband Ready" that is coming out. There may be a few people that already have them. As far as I know, the firmware upgrade should give the same wideband capabilites as the new controller.
I am waiting on a response from Autometer as to how to get the firmware upgrade. Contrary to what they say in the instructions, it's not available for download on their website yet...
As far as the sensor location, it either needs to be in a new bung before the cat, or in the rear o2 sensor bung on an Off Road Mid Pipe. You can have the rear o2's turned off in your tune.
NEW REMOTE CONTROL FIRMWARE REQUIRED
Existing NEXUS systems can use the new Wideband O2 gauge with a firmware update for the remote control. Firmware is available for download at: www.autometer.com or by contacting Auto Meter directly at 1-815-899-0801
So, if you have the 6400 Controller, you'll need to get the firmware upgrade to run this Wideband.
Matter of fact, the gauge won't even show power without the upgrade.
NEXUS has a new 12 channel controller that supposedly is "Wideband Ready" that is coming out. There may be a few people that already have them. As far as I know, the firmware upgrade should give the same wideband capabilites as the new controller.
I am waiting on a response from Autometer as to how to get the firmware upgrade. Contrary to what they say in the instructions, it's not available for download on their website yet...
As far as the sensor location, it either needs to be in a new bung before the cat, or in the rear o2 sensor bung on an Off Road Mid Pipe. You can have the rear o2's turned off in your tune.