GT_350

I'm wanting to install the Steeda High Performance Upper Strut Mounts.

Does anyone have a PDF for the factory service procedures on how to remove the strut and spring assembly?

and what is the difference between a "correct strut/spring clamping device" and the incorrect “external spring compressors“?

This referenced in the Steeda instructions.....
http://www.steeda.com/directions/555-8120-steeda-strut-mounts.pdf

Thanks

delurker

It doesn't say they're "incorrect" - just that they can be used, but Steeda doesn't recommend them.

The "correct" kind they're referring to are probably something like this:

http://www.etoolcart.com/index.asp?P...OD&ProdID=1497

I used the "not recommended" kind like this and had no problems:

http://www.autobarn.net/cta4035.html

TNumber5

I used those "not recommended" ones and I see why they dont recommend them. They are a little scary. After the first one I did alright though. It feels like the spring is going to slip off sometimes. But I dunno it never happend and im still here!

RobK

What springs are you running? With lowering springs I don't use a compressor since the spring doesn't have a whole lot of preload when unloaded. If they're stock springs the simplest and easiest thing to do is take them to a shop and have them swap them on for you. I'll be you can catch someone willing to do it for about $20 near the end of the day or as filler work. The whole process should take about 5 minutes each with the right tools.

TacoBill

Look in my 'How-To'.

AFChief

I used the "non recommended " ones this past weekend. I got them a few years ago from from Autozone as loaners and just kept (forfieted the deposit). They worked great on the stock set up. Steeda ULs on D-spec didn't require the tool on the install. My tool has the hooks for the spring and a sping loaded pin to completely cover the spring coil. I felt safe using it.

biznazion

Interesting... I just installed the same springs/struts last weekend and had to compress the ultralites a lot more than I expected to to get them on the strut. The result was only a 1/4" drop - I'm now thinking there's something wrong with the set of springs I got...

RobK

That sounds a bit odd. They should require "some" compression, but usually you can just push down on them and have a buddy stick the nut on. 1/4" drop is nil. Maybe they'll settle out after a week or two?

biznazion

Indeed. I didn't rent a spring compressor because I didn't think I'd have to compress them much to get them on and I wasn't taking my OEM struts/springs apart. However, when I started the install it was clear that there was no way I was going to get them on without a compressor - and even then I had to crank them down a ton to keep them from contacting the upper strut mount in order to tighten the strut nut.

I posted before and after pics in this thread:
http://forums.bradbarnett.net/showpo...8&postcount=24

AFChief

What did you use for the caps/mounts for the D-Specs? I had to take the top off the stocks to move the bump stop, dust boot and top to the D-Specs.

biznazion

I purchased new upper strut mounts and spring isolators (probably didn't need them as the steeda springs have a plastic isolator on them already). I had picked up a set of GT takeoff springs from a guy on ebay back when I got the car so I didn't have to cut my stock rear coils - and he shipped the stock dust boots with the springs (a bonus I hadn't counted on). That just left the bumpstops which I picked up from Ground Control suspensions.

delurker

Same here. I think the directions say to swap the tops, but I didn't see the bump stop and dust boot mentioned, so once I realized they were missing, I got to do the whole thing all over again.

kevinb120

Your car looks lowered in your avatar If it really is only 1/4", are you SURE you clocked the springs so they sit in the groves on the cap and base of the strut? And the cap is supposed to be rotated so the 'half moon' grove in the edge faces out. If you missed the grooves on both ends it would be about 1" off, and would be a ***** to compress it. You can look into the wheel well and clearly see the 'groove' the bottom of the spring should seat in, just turn the wheel and take a peek at the bottom rim of the spring's mount(can't see the top though). There is a visible \_ shape where the coil's pigtail should sit.

As for compressors,

I used the clamshell type compressor and it was a pain in the nuts. I was flyin along and the compressor tool was the biggest PITA of the project-as it's near impossible to get it to sit square with the very sharp angle of the springs and very few coils to work with. It took longer to use the compressor then to do the entire rear end. When I do it later to put in d-specs or the like I will use the 'standard' compressors, or do it on a weekday and just bring the struts into work and use the big mamajama tool in the shop that's a piece o cake. I may also go a little more hard core with next set of springs(I got the ultralites as they don't beat up on the stock struts very much) and I can just put the whole strut together first. I passed on the isolators as Steeda doesn't say to use the big rubber ones the factory does and it has their own design on them already. No issues with it at all. From what I understand, the clamshell type is for a straight, normal coil spring anyway and the separate single-bolt type compressors are actually referred to as strut compressors.

With any of the ones you use that are not free-standing, just keep the top of the strut pointed away from you and your feet away from the bottom of the strut and you really can't get hurt if it 'pops' anyway. It only 'jumps' about an inch(unless you quickly cut the bolt or something like that with no compressor)beyond the absolute furthest out you can loosen the cap nut, but with enough force to break fingers or ankle bones easilly.

biznazion

Yes - I was very careful to get them put together exactly the way the OEM ones are. The lower end of the spring is right where it should be and the top is up against the stop on the strut bearing isolator. The arrow faces to the outside of the car on both sides.

kevinb120

Are you sure its only 1/4" lower? Post a side pic, and check with TacoBill's measurements on his how-to thread in the sticky for his links.

biznazion

That's the first place I went to check. He doesn't have numbers from prior to the drop - but his final numbers are pretty close to mine. I was right at 28" before putting the ultralites in and i'm at 27 3/4" after. Perhaps my car was lower than usual with the stock springs???

I posted before and after pics in this thread - you can see there's very little noticable difference.

http://forums.bradbarnett.net/showpo...8&postcount=24

kevinb120

The rear looks right, as one coil cut is very close to the steeda drop. It does look the same in the photos. Odd, because mine is def lower then stock and with the factory 18"s(which are virtually identical to the 17"s outer diameter) As of today, I sit at 28 1/16" both sides in the front, after 150 miles to settle them, an alignment, and another 400+ miles