Okay, this one's a tough one...or at least it's an elusive one.

Here are the symptoms:

-The car's temperature will shoot up to about 3/4 of the way (Normal operating temp puts the needle at just a hair under half, almost straight up and down.)

-The temp won't go down unless I let off the gas and wait for the temperature to go back down to normal. This usally takes about 30 seconds or so.

-This happens regardless of outside temperature.

-It happens with minimal flogging/spirited driving.

-It never goes all the way into the red (I always catch the temp rising before it does.)


-The car acts sluggish/heat soaked before and during this.

-The only way to keep the car from getting hot is to drive with the heater on.

Background on the car:

'05 GT with a ProCharger/Intercooler, 5-speed automatic, stock radiator/thermostat. Car overheated once about a year and a half ago, thermostat was replaced with a stock replacement. The fans are tuned to come on at 180 and 190.

That's all I can think of at the moment. Any input or theories would be much appreciated.

My plan right now is to upgrade to a Fluidyne radiator, but I'd like to see if there's any other way to remedy my problem.

Thanks!

Kris

 

Kris I'm no mechanic so I'm not sure where to tell you to look first, but I can tell you that the factory gauges are basically "idiot" gauges and if the temp gauge is getting near the red, your engine is getting VERY hot. I'd get it looked at asap.

 

What does your coolant look like?

 

First thing I would do is replace the thermostat with a 160 degrees one...
Cheers

 

Replacing the thermostat isn't a bad idea, but a 160 degree stat is. If the thermostat is at fault it is because it isn't opening normally, not because it is too hot. Changing to a colder thermostat requires retuning and is of no value on a street car. Troubleshooting an overheating problem is pretty standard stuff and the procedure is basically the same regardless of the type of car. There are probably hundreds of websites that outline it.

 

I've had a shop diagnose the problem before and all they did was replace the stat...I'm tempted to pull the radiator out and see if there's something physically blocking it.

What's wrong with retuning with a colder thermostat? My dyno tuner is local, that shouldn't be an issue...

My coolant is a faint green. It's clean because I just had my head gaskets replaced/head studs installed. The car had blown a gasket a while back and I had it fixed over the summer.

 

Green?? Should be gold... Ford spec's a different coolant for the all-aluminum engine. Probably not your overheat cause, but it will affect your corrosion resistance throughout the coolant system...

 

Yeah, I brought it up to the shop that was working on it...they brushed it off and insisted there was no difference. I'll probably be getting it changed out before long though.

 

It is a problem in the ATI Procharger kit itself. I have a very good customer of mine that has a 2005 Ford Mustang Roush with the same kit on it and we have been chasing this problem. I have tried three different thermostats, wired the fan asy so it runs all the time, and it now has a Ford Racing Radiator in it and it still does it. I have contacted ATI and they know that there is a problem but have no solution for me. It is in the cooling system that they replace on the vehicle and it absolutly sucks and has made them loose serveral sales from me.

Blake

 

Any idea on the IAT? datalog? I always wondered about those on an ATI procharger... Hot air being sucked in + hot air being compress + very hot air going into air to air heat exchanger that has a large surface area right in front of the rad...I wonder...just a tought...

 

For the few $$ it will cost..start with the simplest thing first and replace the T-stat before you go ripping things apart. It's not unheard of for a T-stat to go bad in a year.

 

This would be the second thermostat...but I'll give it one more try.

I have a really good working relationship with ProCharger, so I will contact them about it. Hopefully they can offer some insight...much as it would pain me to part with the ProCharger, it might be time for a KB or Whipple...no way I'm going back to N/A though...

 

I doubt you would have had 2 bad stock thermostats. Something else is wrong here. Contact ProCharger first, because it is the most likely problem.

 

Yeah, I'll be giving them a call tomorrow to see if they know this problem. I mean, there are how many Mustangs out there with ProChargers? Must be a fluke or something's kinda 'off' on my car.

 

I chased this problem for over a year, ATI was NO help. Now I run at 180 deg year round, 200 with the A/C. FYI: I also live in TX and have 16# of boost. Also, the extra heat also caused another side effect: oil overheating, low oil pressure and the VCT going crazy.

Here is what I found:

1. Air in the mixture. I gaurantee you have air trapped in the sysytem and you will need to burp it and slowly bleed it out. Drain your system and use 60% water and 40% coolant. Also, get yourself some water wetter and use 3/4 of a bottle.

2. Using the 160 deg. t-stat is fine - and does nto require you to return and provides constant results.

3. The A/C condensor is the main culprit when using the A/C. If you run without the A/C it may be fine, but with the A/C on, the heat/wash produced by the condensor heat soaks the engine becuase of the intercooler being in the way.

4. The next issue is the stock grill. If does not allow enough air to pass to keep all that extra heat cooler. I moved from the stock grill to the center mount lights from SS, then to the CDC grill. Made a huge difference in air flow.


I tried many options over a year. Diffenet percentages of water/coolant, fan speeds, fan turn on times, etc. So, try the 160 deg. t-stat + water/coolant + water wetter and bleed the air out. This will fix most of it. If it is slightly too high, get a new grill.


One more note: You can find how to "burp" the system in the forums and online. Be aware that I followed those instructions to the letter each time and it still would not get the all the air out. I found the best was was to "burp" the system, start it, get it up to running temp and "crack" the connection on the cold water intake to let the air out. I did this over several hours/days to get it 100% cool. Take your time and be carefull, as it will blow/spew/sputter from the connection.




-Bryan

 

Thanks Bryan! I was gonna call ProCharger today, but I think I will try your methods...everytime I talk to their tech guys I get treated like crap anyway. My contact there is Cary and he's not in their tech dept.

The bleeding process is miserable and slow and I'm pretty sure that's what I need to do again. The car overheated on me once and has never been right since, so I'm sure there's air in it still.

Thanks again...hope this does the trick. Do you see any climb in temp after all your trial and error?

 

Temp stays steady at 180 w/o A/C and no more than 200 with A/C.

Now, if I get on it hard, like a Dyno, it might goto 190, but under normal driving/playing - it never goes over 180.

-Bryan

 

If his car is running over 200 degrees with a 195 degree thermostat, or whatever the stock one is, it will run just as hot with a 160. In both cases the thermostat is fully open and the cooling system is operating at full capacity.