Tucker suggested a title change and I agree... It was late and I was tired.....
titled " I installed CMDP's and I have issues with tune"?

I have been data logging my tune, trying to figure out why my car is having issues. so I took a good look CAI setup found a few places I can try to improve. so I started to address them one at a time. My MAF AI Temps are 145+ deg. with ambient Temps of 85 deg.

I first took the stock air box and cut the bottom off the fit the heat shield to block the heat coming from underneath the shield near the engine, then I used some adheasive back insulating foam with reflective foil and cut it to fit the outside of the shield and finished the edge with clip on door weather striping to seal against the hood and body.

Ever since I installed the CMDP I have been experiencing poor performance on my Drag Launches. It feel like the Timing is being retarded dut to the MAF reading high heat. as soon as the car gets going the temps drop and I gain full power.
I think this is a tune issue because I have a non race tune that I had the CMDP added to and it works fine. (From a different tuner)

 

That should work better than the peice of tin that most cold air kits come with. It would be interesting to see some before and after numbers from this.

 

The JLT II Heat shield is Plastic,

here is the first test with out the modifications.
The average temps from launch was 145 Deg. Ambient Air Temp of 86 Deg
I will log tomorrow in same heat conditions


Delete the .doc extension to make this file work in the SCT live load software or Microsoft Excel

 

Exactly why I run the WMS 80mm HV Ram Air Intake system.

The air that my intake is seeing is whatever the outdoor air temp happens to be.........when the car is moving of coarse. I have a remote temp sensor at the intake.

 

Ditto.

 

So does my C&L Street CAI.

 

So is this while driving down the road or at idle? I would think that while moving you'll get much cleaner air regardless of whose intake you're using. Likewise, at idle I doubt very much you'll get down to ambient OAT.

 

This is at Idle, I am trying to get my 1/4 mile times down and I am having issues with my tune from tip-in to 3000 rpm, the car is boging down at launch.

 

I opened a IAT datalogging thread hear a LONG time ago (18 months ago or so) and had several people with different CAIs running a datalogging test that included a warm up, initial air temps, air temps after idling for 5 and 10 minutes and air temps after driving again (post heat soak) after 1 and 5 minutes.

The very short summary is that the factory box heat soaks VERY bad and takes a long time to cool back down. Plus, it is always 10 to 15 degrees above ambiant, even driving down the highway at 70 mph for 10+ minutes. ALL of the aftermarket CAIs did a MUCH better job of keeping the IAT down closer to ambiant AND they cooled off MUCH quicker than stock after a long heat soak.

I found the full thread: http://forums.bradbarnett.net/showthread.php?t=32983

It has all the details in the test methodology and the results for several different CAIs and the stock setup that I datalogged.

 

I would definitely understand that with the stock airbox. It has a considerable amount of mass that would definitely take some time to cool down. With a CAI all you really have is the intake tube. An aluminum tube will pick up more heat faster, but it should also reject heat faster once you're going. Did anyone insulate their intake tubes to prevent as much heat soak as possible at idle? Also, I don't think it would really matter whose kit you use at idle conditions. Just sitting there you're radiating so much heat that the ambient air around your car is significantly elevated. I don't think there's a whole lot you can do about it other than insulating the tube itself to prevent heat soak.

 

Then you need to get sticky tires and leave the line at 5500 like I do. My JLT doesn't bog, trust me. You are bogging because you are launching at too low RPMs. You are chasing the wrong issue.

 

No I am an Automatic, I am holding the brake and then hit the Gas, the car accelerates very slow (the RPM rise slow) till about 3000 rpm, then is goes.
It's a Timing issue it what it feels like.

I just installed CMDP and a new tune, I did not have this issue before the CMDP, the car would Revv up off the line quick, So much so that I needed to get DR to keep from spinning. Now I can't even spin street tires. As soon as I get past 3000 the car scratches 2nd and Chirps 3rd. When the Car is Cold it runs like a Bat out-a hell,

 

IMO, it's a combination of summer weather, the lack of low end torque, and the stock torque converter. Get yourself a 3000 rpm (or higher) converter, and you'll feel the difference.

 

I find the title to this thread funny after reading it.
"JLT Issues"???
Your datalogging IAT's while at idle?
Of coarse your temps are high, there is no air flow, the same will go for C&L, WMS and so on.

1) You do not want to block the bottom of the heat shield. Look down and you will see the ground. I purposly kept this open as air flows up into the filter area when at speed.
2) The design of the 05-up Mustang does not allow a filter to be in a cooler area, unfortunatily. So the idea is to block as much radiant heat at low speed as you can and still allow air flow around the filter when at speed.
Saying the JLT has "lots of flaws" is a unfair statement.

Keep us posted on you idle IAT temps, but you should take the time to see what happens when you move the car.

Thanks
Jay

 

Then why wasn't the thread titled " I installed CMDP's and I have issues"?

 

+1 there are several guys that don't bother w/ the so called heat shield,
you have a tune problem first... after that you may want to look at a torque converter. and forget about wrapping a plastic intake tube to prevent heatsoak it will never happen.

 

Such as low torque at idle issues, kinda what the butterflies are designed to enhance I would think blocking the bottom of the shield would increase temperatures. The shield itself is designed to capture additional airflow from beneath the filter, as it virtually 'seals' itself against the hood becoming an open ended box-with the opening being the bottom of it.

 

for a more effective delete plate install you need udp's.
these two items should come as a kit; not to be sold seperately.

 

You're blocking the "heat" coming from underneath the shield? Correct me if I'm mistaken, but isn't that where the vast majority of outside air enters? Seems to me you're only choking your engine now.

And on the CMDP thing...Ford put 'em there for nice low-end torque - to keep the intake velocity up. Taking them out is hurting you until probably 4000 RPM...either put 'em back in or launch at a higher RPM.

 

And the UDP's and aluminum driveshaft will get her spinning up faster