like camber bolts or anything. thanks

 

yep you will need camber bolts. Get them at napa I believe for around 30 bux. I would also suggest pan hard bar, lca relocate brackets and a bump steer kit. Shocks and struts wouldn't hurt either

 

The kit comes with the struts http://www.tirerack.com/suspension/s...Pro-System+Kit.

Si ill need camber bolts? are they a one size fits all deal? thanks

On the site it says all i have to do is align and enjoy my drive.... What do you guys think

The rep at tire rack also said i didnt need them.

 

Got the wheel install,Suspension kit,camber bolts and alignment set up to get installed on tues. Ill post pics as soon as there done

 

I got all my Eibach stuff at drivewire.com ... no where cheaper.

On that note, I went with a Eibach Pro-system plus ... sway bars, springs and struts/shocks. I cut the rear bump stops about 1". I also added camber bolts before I went for the alignment ... be prepared for a rougher ride ... while its not harsh, its not the same comfortable ride you get with the stock setup.

 

So do you think its worth it? this is not a daily driver. i all readt have the kit but if the ride is that bad then i wont do it

 

It's a matter of personal taste. Find someone with a kit installed 1st or take a ride in a Shelby GT .... same setup.

 

Nope. Did not need anything else, not even camber bolts. Just an alignment and that was it.

Seven months after the install, my car even went through the drastic Euro regs as I exported it to Europe. And God knows how much of a pain these regs are. The alignment was still right on and it scored perfect on it.

I'd just advise on you getting a set of Tokico D-Specs or Koni struts/shocks to go along with the springs cause otherwise I promise you a 350Z ride experience.

 

dude i have the whole package. its comes with the shocks and stuts. read some of the post above yours

 

BMR adjustable panhard rod to recenter the body over the rear end. Maybe you'll need it, maybe you won't. My car shifted 3/4" so it needed to be recentered.

 

What !!! Man thats the first i'v heard about the car needing to be recentered. With such a slight drop?? it's the slightest drop on any kit.

 

It is actually the rear end you are re-centering, not the car...

 

Yeah when you drop it the angle changes, mine is off by about a 1/2" need to get an adj panhard myself, and as far as the ride goes I love it. I also like the suspension tight though, it's all a personal preference.

 

Some Insight Please:

I put bought the Eibach Pro-Kit/ Alignment Kit (Camber Bolts) and SVT strut mounts (to replace the originals to elminate potential "popping sound". Here's the situation, when I took it to the local speed shop, I had them install the Pro-Kit, Kooks LT and Tuned it. They took it to an alignment shop after the work was done. I was so dam excited about the headers and the new stance that I did not realize until I got home that there was negative camber. I couldn't figure it out, until I looked at my work bench and saw the camber bolts lying on there.

My Question: I've never installed camber bolts, so when I bring it back should I get a new set of strut mounts or will they be OK? I want to do it right, so if it takes an additional $60 so be it, but I am far from understanding suspension...even after reading the 100 or so threads on this site.

Thanks for your help.

Wayne

 

I almost forgot, I am bringing it back also because my Spohn adjustable panhard bar and adjustable LCA just came in also. Am I forgetting anything else?

 

You'll most likely want the adj PHB. If you're going to spend the money to drop the car, you might as well spend the extra hundred and get the rear centered, especially if you're going to run wider rubber. I went w/ the Spohn adj PHB, and it was necessary w/ using the FRPP K springs.

If you don't know what an adj PHB is, this pic should help explain it. The right side attaches to the body, the left side attaches to the rear end on the left side of the axle. Twisting the bolt and tightening allows you to keep the same amount of rubber exposed on each side. Lowering the car will change the placement of the rear end from stock, but depending on whether or not you were centered from stock, and what size rubber you're going to run, it may not be necessary.

 

Thanks for that pic, Did you install that yourself?

Does that bar help stifen up the car also?

 

Yeah, easy install on some ramps. As far as stiffening up the car... I don't corner hard enough to notice any difference. The black bar, 1/2 hidden behind the spare well is a stiffening brace. Replace that with a stiffer one and install the two together (new brace and phb) and you'll probably have a tighter rear. Hopefully others can verify that for you.

 

How do you know if your rear has to be recentered?? does the rear pull to a certain direction? How do you know how far to tighen the bolt? Do you do it as tight as you can?

O.k so i still need to buy upper strut mounts and a PHB and i should be good right??

 

You measure/compare the fender with the edge of the tires on each side.