GT500 LCA's on GT
#21
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Don't get riled? Settle down pal! GT500's have horrible wheel hop right out of the box. That should say enough right there. The point of this thread is to say ''they don't stop wheel hop'' which is all the scientific experimentation I need. The bushings may very well have just been made in the same mold....I don't know, I don't care. They DO NOT work for wheel hop on my car. I had both arms in my lap, shoved a bolt through the center of the bushings and tried to bend the bolt to see how much flex each had. They seemed the same to me. I've been a tech for 24 years and I've learned one thing for sure...real world experience is what matters, not some parts guy reading me technical information.
Even a tech should know the principles of the scientific method. Subjective test results have little meaning. Now it you had measured how much force it took to deflect the bolt some distance, then you would have some meaningful test results. But all that is a mute point since you did your real world test (knowing the GT500's had the same problem?) and found no distinguishable improvement. Does not mean the GT500 bushes are softer, which is what else you are selling here.
From your signature block its not clear if you have lowered the car or changed your dampers ...
Whether you have lowered your car our not, have you done anything to improve the rear instant center? Its not particularly ideal even at stock ride height. If you do raise the instant center by dropping the rear of the LCA, too much is not good as you can create an oversteering situation with the rear axle.
There are a lot of variables that influence wheel hop. The tires and how well they hook up, tire pressure, damper settings, suspension geometry and suspension compliance (type of pushings), just to mention a few.
Going with rigid or non compliant bushes may reduce the problem, but as I am sure you may have already picked up, suspension feel will be harsher and noisier, and it seems like not every one has had positive results.
You might want to look at the torque arm solution offered by Griggs Racing. Not sure if they will part out their kits, but someone else may offer a torque arm.
Have fun.
Last edited by RadBOSS; 4/20/08 at 03:54 PM.
#22
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Thank you for contributing to the thread. You're just a little abrasive and I can do without that. I'm trying to keep the car's suspension as quiet as stock and improve the low speed wheel hop situation. I'm thinking that relocation brackets are going to be my next step for attempting to reduce or eliminate the low speed wheel hop. As far as the GT500 arms go, it feels like I haven't done a thing to the rear suspension. Not even the slightest difference in feel whatsoever. Other than an adjustable panhard bar and springs I don't want to mess with this car's suspension too much. there's a fine line that I don't want to cross....I've been there before. This is mainly a street car and I want it to have street manners.
#23
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Thank you for contributing to the thread. You're just a little abrasive and I can do without that. I'm trying to keep the car's suspension as quiet as stock and improve the low speed wheel hop situation. I'm thinking that relocation brackets are going to be my next step for attempting to reduce or eliminate the low speed wheel hop. As far as the GT500 arms go, it feels like I haven't done a thing to the rear suspension. Not even the slightest difference in feel whatsoever. Other than an adjustable panhard bar and springs I don't want to mess with this car's suspension too much. there's a fine line that I don't want to cross....I've been there before. This is mainly a street car and I want it to have street manners.
When you do the LCA drop, don't drop the rear below level as you will introduce some roll oversteer. Don't know if that will completely cure the hop, but it should launch better. The Steeda LCA brackets look to have the most adjustability.
In case anyone wants to get more scientific, the factory LCAs bushings are designed to be very compliant when twisted so as not to introduce roll stiffness. To really tell them apart would require applying a known axial load (like a 100 lbs or more) on the link end and then measure how much it stretches or shrinks.
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