Nothing like the ole "Open Komona" Tom

Great air flow for sure................



Is that the BOV I see in the lower right hand corner? Looks like a siren-n-n-n-n

 

Thanks Tom for hang'n in there

 

That's the Bumper Cover Delete!

Yep, that's the BOV. I have it angled toward the opening in the nose so it can be heard better!

 

Here's the latest from today's testing:

Boost controller set to MAX (thereotically 10psi):

Max PSI on boost gauge = 11psi (just for a split second)
All in before 6000 RPM

Boost contoller set to 1/2 (thereotically 5psi):

Boost still crept over 10psi, and I still wasn't at 6000 RPM

Boost controller 3 turns from MIN (thereotically 3psi):

Boost gets to about 8psi and then creeps to 10spi
Not sure when it hits 8psi, but it's somewhere in the 4000 RPM range. It's hard to watch the tach, the boost gauge, and the road at the same time.

I'm going to need to play with the boost controller, but I think where I have it now is pretty safe. Maybe I'll turn it down a hair so it goes to about 7psi and doesn't creep above 9psi.

The car pulls very hard and when I get off the gas I can feel the nose drop like a brick compared to before, so I'm sure that's the added torque I'm feeling.

Dyno day is set for January 5th at Daytona Beach on a Dyno Jet if nothing changes!

 

Is that normal with turbos Tom? I would be nervous as all hell if that was the norm.

 

Is what normal? The boost controller creeping?

From what I hear, yes... It has nothing to do with the turbo, but all to do with the mechanical boost controller.

The electronic boost controllers are better, but also more $$$!

If I turn off the BC, it won't go any higher than 6psi (or the spring setting of the waste gate). I'm just trying to get my max boost to either 8 or 9psi...

If you mean something else, let me know...

 

Nope, you answered it haha.

I don't know if I could deal with that. How much more are electronic boost controllers?

 

$70 versus over $300

It's no big deal, really. Once I get it dialed in properly.

High boost alone is not bad... it's only bad when coupled with high discharge temps, lean A/F ratio conditions, etc. A proper tune takes care of those things.

I'll make sure it never creeps over 10psi and I should be fine!

We'll know the HP and TQ numbers soon!

 

Your neighbors must think your crazy. Glad to see your getting the problem fixed. Slowly but surely.

 

you need to get the wife to take a ride and watch the boost and RPM so you can really see where you are at. You could also set the gage in front of the tach and take a video.

 

It takes a little bit more work to get a turbo dialed in, no worries he's doing it right. Its well worth it in the end.

 

Great News Tom !!




Now where are the tire shreading pics...

 

From the front of the car being off? Or the high speed passes up and down the street? Just kidding... I'm at least doing it on a road without any houses!

I will probably do the latter after Christmas... maybe Wednesday.

Should I put the stock ones back on like you? You're right, though... I'll have to take some videos.

 

My eboost2 was 500 but it's also a boost gauge. My boost goes to 10.5psi and sticks.

 

Guess I was a little low money wise!

I'll get it so it goes to about 9psi right now and maybe upgrade down the road.

 

I couldn't see going anything other than electronic. But I think that is just me.

 

Why do you say that? A ball and spring is MUCH easier to tune, has a much lower failure rate (the last thing you want is for the EBC to take a crap and let your boost run wild) not to mention the cost factor. For what Tom wants/needs the MBC is the way to go.

 

Minimum boost is determined by the WG spring which I think you said is 6 psi, not 3. What you're describing is not normal behavior for a MBC. In general what you see with a MBC is that when you go WOT boost will overshoot slightly (1 psi or so) for an instant and then stabilize at the set figure. So if you set boost at 8 psi it may spike to 9 psi at 4000 rpm or so and then settle back to 8 psi by 4500. Never do you see boost creep up as rpm build in a properly functioning system unless the WG is too small and is physically incapable of flowing enough exhaust gas which is obviously not the case here.
I have had lots of boost controllers: GReddy Profec, GReddy TVVC, Apexi AVC, aquarium airbleeders, Dawes Device, etc. For a set it and forget it, 100% reliable, last forever, affordable, and efficient controller you can't beat a simple spring and ball check valve. The type of MBC you are using is decent for adjusting boost although it does not improve spoolup as much as a ball/spring type and unfortunately it won't give you any definitive answers because it is only designed to allow up to 10 psi. You already knew you could hit 10 psi.

 

[quote=65sohc;1073034] The type of MBC you are using is decent for adjusting boost although it does not improve spoolup as much as a ball/spring type quote]

I thought he was running a ball and spring?

 

Maybe I'm not a tubro guy after all?

I do know who to turn to if I have any questions though