after jacking the car up twice only to find that I don't have the right tools, tonite I was finally going to get the g.d. uca installed. What I figured to be a two or three hour project is going to be a two evening project. Note to DIYers - if you're using hand tools, consider paying a shop to do it. 1st you'll need plenty extension on your wrenches - and a penchant for laying on your back. 2nd, though some people can get the bracket out without lowering the gas tank, I could not. 3rd, the torx screws that hold the tank up are made of jello, that's right, I stripped one all to hell. 4th - the back half of the UCA has an up side and a down. be sure to look at the pictures closely, 'cuz it doesn't say so in the instructions.

So anyways... I spent almost 3 hours getting the bracket out. Another 45 minutes measuring and double measuring the UCA, another 30 minutes getting the 3 bracket bolts torqued down. And with just the one bolt remaining, I find that it's upside-down! 50/50 chance of that happening and it might as well, nothing else is going smooth. too hard to right it in the car and get the measurements right. I'll have to take it out again and start over. anyone care to drive me to work tomorrow?

 

Dang...sorry to hear about your troubles. I guess I didn't leave enough info in my thread. You can measure the distance when it is in the car. I used a wood ruler with 'mm' marks on it. As long as you measure the old one the same way, you will be fine. Flipping that back bracket over isn't going to throw you off that bad. 1 degree is over 1 1/2 turns. I wouldn't pull the whole thing out. I found that using Steeda's measurements, I have just over 2 degrees pinion angle, maybe close to 3. I bought an angle finder from Lowes and the needle tends to 'stick'. Make sure you get one where the needle flows freely as 1 degree can be hard to measure.

It was hard to tell (by the picture) which way that rear bracket went. I checked the net to see some pictures of someone elses installed to make sure I had it right. Those strap bolts for the gas tank are soft for sure. My bolt looks pretty rough too, but it still works.

Did I mention not to put too much grease in that thing? One squirt with the gun! Don't expect it to ooze out like I did. Steeda says you will destroy the bushing with that old school thinking.

Good luck!!!

 

Thanks. I got it in, at last. I couldn't get one of those strap bolts all the way out when it stripped clean.... who invented torx anyway? I'm thinking the dealership must have cross threaded it when they replaced the gas tank. It's plumb stuck about 3/4 out. So now I have one side of the gas tank kind of droopy. Called the local dealership and it will take 5 days minimum to get the bolt here. I guess it would be unwise to go racing this weekend, eh? Any thoughts on how I might get that thing out? or back in again?

I hope I didn't bugger the bushing, I put way too much grease in the first time.

Hey, did the rear part that attaches to the diff. case seem a bit loose? I can't help thinking maybe I missed something important.

 

I hate torx. You could try to find a bolt that matches length and thread with a different head. As for getting it out; I had that problem with one of my bracket bolts for the UCA! I about had a heart attack. I just decided to tighten it and tried to remove it again. The second time it came out fine. The first time it felt like it was cross-threaded. Maybe you can spray some lube on the threads and try to get it turned back and forth a few times and get lucky.

On the bushing, did it distort at all when you lubed it? If not, you will probably be OK. Mine distorted, but I am in no hurry to take it out to check it.

I don't remember that back part feeling loose. I know it wasn't as tight as the front with those bushings! I don't think you forgot anything. There are no washers or anything for that section.

BTW...I scheduled an appt with the dealer for them to check my rear diff and driveline. I am still hearing strange noises now and then and think my diff clutches might be making noises, or maybe a bearing or pinion alignment issue. I hope they find something though. I would like to put those LCAs back on and find that there is no clunking. I hope they don't blame the Steeda UCA once they find that in there. I would hate to have a warranty issue now.

Let me know how it goes with the bolt and the track!