I recently added a three gauge pod to the pillar in our car and am placing the following gauges from Auto Meter in it: Fuel pressure, Oil pressure, and Vaccuum/Boost pressure. Upon researching the need for fuel pressure gauges I have come accross an opportunity for duplicating what has already been engineered and a way to save money doing it, for those who have nitrous already. The following kit can be purchased from MDmotorsports (www.modulardepot.com) for prices starting at $224.95 and with an option of 7 different gauges. I found this while searching forums and have realized that the Zex fuel block can be modified in the same way as this picture shows the fuel block. I am drilling a hole in the back side of the block and placing a 1/8th NPT to 4AN or 3AN fitting to attach to my fuel sending unit supplied with my electric fuel pressure gauge. I will post some pics when it is finished for those who are interested.

 

Or you can not modify it and just install a manifold fitting ported for 1/8"NPT. This was what I originally did before moving over to the CPR fuel rail.

There are a ton of fittings that will enable you to not drill into your fuel rail adapter, not just the manifold that I mentioned.

-Dan

 

Are you talking of a fitting or place in the factory fuel system that you modified? I really don't want to modify the fuel rail, only an aftermarket piece. Where did you tap in for yours before your CPR rails?

 

I used the Zex unit and installed a manifold, a long straight aluminum fitting (inlet side is Male and outlet is Female) with a 1/8" NPT port for use with the my Hood Mounted Preasure Gauge. This manifold sufficiently supplies the Fuel Solenoid and correctly reads fuel pressure when you put your foot into the pedal.

I used to have some pictures available but I have since deleted them due to the CPR Fuel Rail installation.

If you really must continue to use the stock fuel rail you could put your money into upgrading the main feed line. By replacing the stock hard rubber hose that connects the fuel rail's end to the hard line on the fender with aluminum fittings and stainless steel braided hose you can customize your fuel delivery to your liking.

You could run a Y-fitting, utilize a distribution block or just use a 1/8" Port adapter to feed anything you want. I havent shown many people the underhood work of mine but its darn attractive and gets the job done right.

These are just some alternatives to using that spacer type block.

-Dan

 

Thanks for the info. I may consult you on the fuel line change but as far as the fuel rails go they have proven to handle up to 600rwhp in supercharged/turbocharged applications that I have seen. Apparently the limiting factor after replacing the fuel pump or applying a variable voltage driver for the fuel pump will be the size of the factory fuel line from the tank to the engine. Until I break 600rwhp it will stay stock.
I would like some pics of your fuel line setup if you have them handy,
Thanks
Derek

 

take a look at some pics in this thread.

http://forums.bradbarnett.net/index.php?sh...c=37582&hl=fuel

and take a look at the pics posted here.

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2089115/6

-Dan