GT Performance Mods 2005+ Mustang GT Performance and Technical Information

FRPP 3V Intake

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Old 4/29/10, 08:21 AM
  #81  
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Originally Posted by forensicsteve
Nope. The projection is about the build...not a part of the build like the motor.

The build would likely include major upgrades in fuel, transmission, rearend, intake manifold, and all the other upgrades needed to support the increase in boost/power. From my own experience and listening to others that have done extreme builds... you go 3 steps forward and often 2 steps backward...and all the time, the meter is running.
So I can't have it for $6K? Hey, I'm just messing with you, I know that's totally unreasonable, but there is one guy here that assured us that he can make that happen with around $3k, total .

Anyways, I don't think we can steer this thread back until someone gets one of the manifolds, installs it, dyno, and posts results.
Old 4/29/10, 08:57 AM
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thread back until someone gets one of the manifolds, installs it, dyno, and posts results.
On the subject of intake manifolds, I bought the JPC. It's installed....dyno and results should not be too far away. Working on the fuel cell install. There are so many changes on this build, don't know how any rwhp changes could be attributed to the IM alone. Not actually looking for hp gains from the IM...looking for more even gas flow per cylinder. The stock IM was a problem in that regard

Old 4/29/10, 09:51 AM
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Originally Posted by forensicsteve
To be safe with extreme builds, project what it will cost and then double that figure.
I do the same thing.

Originally Posted by rony1976
Are you still using the C&L Manifold in your car? if you are, what are your thoughts? I have one of the original runs in my storage that I have to send to C&L to get remachined...

I don't think the FRPP is going to make any more power than the C&L, where I think the FRPP will surpass the C&L is weight.
Well it was only on my car for a little while before the motor gave out. It made good power but it's really hard to tell how much. I like the C&L because I know how much effort went into designing it. I also really like the fact how it distributes air flow better than the stocker and eliminates lean cylinders under some conditions. This is the main purpose of the manifold. Only under extreme conditions will it pick up big horsepower. I haven't run it since it got remachined.
Old 4/29/10, 11:50 AM
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Originally Posted by Bullitt995
Well it was only on my car for a little while before the motor gave out. It made good power but it's really hard to tell how much. I like the C&L because I know how much effort went into designing it. I also really like the fact how it distributes air flow better than the stocker and eliminates lean cylinders under some conditions. This is the main purpose of the manifold. Only under extreme conditions will it pick up big horsepower. I haven't run it since it got remachined.
Thanks bud for the reply on the manifold. I'm looking forward to getting it remachined and getting the most my engine can give me. I wish I had the money to get a stroker kit and cams to do all of this at once, but there are other priorities at home, and I don't have the budget.

Well, I'm off to change the oil in my car... ROFL! This thread is great!
Old 4/29/10, 02:35 PM
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Originally Posted by rony1976
Well, I'm off to change the oil in my car... ROFL! This thread is great!
Make a thread about it. And make sure that thread goes 10+ pages with people arguing over the characteristics of each brand of oil and which ones to stay away from, because it takes the absolute best oil ever to run a 300bhp stock motor. And then another thread in a week to tell everyone that the new oil is doing great.
Old 5/1/10, 11:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Bullitt995
Make a thread about it. And make sure that thread goes 10+ pages with people arguing over the characteristics of each brand of oil and which ones to stay away from, because it takes the absolute best oil ever to run a 300bhp stock motor. And then another thread in a week to tell everyone that the new oil is doing great.
LOL, that's an excellent idea! why didn't I think of that? maybe I will do a thread with a poll to figure out why I didn't think of it, running parallel to the "oil change" thread. he he he
Old 5/2/10, 12:02 AM
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Originally Posted by Bullitt995
So now you're just trying to hold that the pistons will work? You've argued nothing I've said. You're talking to no one. There's a big difference between billet and built as far as how much a shortblock costs. If you get one in your car for 5k, which you can do, it won't do any kind of high RPM or even be able to handle big boost.
Actually, I can add some input hear. Our forged pieces, assuming a bolt upgrade, are rated for 9500 RPM. We have customers that shift them at 10.5k on nitrous. Can I tell you to or recommend you to go do that? Hell no! But it works. If your seriously going to drop the coin on a build like this your recommendation of a 5.4 is dead on. And FWIW a nice billet crank can be had in the mid $3k range now, it's nice when prices drop huh? I will say this is one of the few times I've actually agreed with a point your attempting to make on the boards though.
Old 5/2/10, 08:19 PM
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Originally Posted by EagleStroker
Actually, I can add some input hear. Our forged pieces, assuming a bolt upgrade, are rated for 9500 RPM. We have customers that shift them at 10.5k on nitrous.
That's interesting, what motors? Not mod motors I'm assuming.
Old 5/2/10, 08:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Bullitt995
That's interesting, what motors? Not mod motors I'm assuming.
Stock stroke mod motor yes, the stroker would be a honda journal and I would only recommend it on a case by case basis. If your revving 9500 you don't need the stroke because obviously your pushing the RPM. Our stock stroke crank is standard journal size, slap some L-19's in the rods and rev with it
Old 5/2/10, 11:10 PM
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I had toyed with the idea of a high rev mod motor + turbo but I just couldn't find a way to do it on any kind of sane budget. Going where not many have gone before costs a lot. Hence my strong opinion on the subject.
Old 5/2/10, 11:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Bullitt995
I had toyed with the idea of a high rev mod motor + turbo but I just couldn't find a way to do it on any kind of sane budget. Going where not many have gone before costs a lot. Hence my strong opinion on the subject.
The thing about turbos (one of the many benefits) is they are really easy on parts. We rate our cranks at 1500, we have a 10.5 outlaw customer that ran one in there 7 second car an entire season without breaking. For reference these are the same people that do my tuning. A lot of that is attributed to tuning and the fact that the turbos are so gentle on the internals. I think what mod motor people don't see is the fact that at a certain point it doesn't matter what you put in it, it is going to break. Question is how long?

When it comes to what your talking about the most expensive part is obviously the heads. I would feel comfortable shifting at 9 without an issue assuming they can handle it, and you could build stupid power (sub 1000 most likely) depending on the combination and still have excellent drive ability on the street. Or as excellent as a car of that nature can If this was something you were still entertaining I say stock stroke crank, L19 bolts in the rods, and a custom set of pistons to stuff into a big bore block I don't want to turn this into a sales pitch, feel free to PM me if you'd like and I can point out what design cues back up my statements.

And trust me on the new ground statement I understand, ruined new valves and pistons when we realized what effect aftermarket cams had on VCT. It's wonderful when company's let their customers be the guinea pigs! There are a lot better options when it comes to parts on the market these days.

Last edited by EagleStroker; 5/2/10 at 11:49 PM.
Old 5/3/10, 04:30 AM
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So what happened to forged pistons cannot handle 9k? And that magical 50K$$ billet crank? As far as I can tell I never said anything about a 3k budget, but you seem to ASSume? Ok, go with that then. Cant help your ASSumptions there, you are what you are.

I quote from you that mod motors cant handle anything over 7k, then we got a guy saying some customers shift @ 10.5k? Then you ridicule the fact the motor wont handle it at all and blow in short order? However its you who has blown this magical turbo engine you have sunken lots of money in. I can only assume your motor wont last simply because your probably busting your builders ***** to the point where he is going cross eyed.

In any case you should switch from supposedly building cars & racing to running your mouth as a politician. I bet you can win more races running your mouth.

Also I bet an aluminator short block probably can handle what you were throwing at it. That can be had for about 3400-3500 bux shipped depending on which ford racing dealer you deal with. Couple that with 10-15 hours of assembly time for your builder & you got a stout boost capable engine for around 5k.

Brenspeed is offering their short blocks in 5.0L stroker form for about 3800, all forged too.

So where is your 50k coming from? Because if your dropping 50k on an engine, might as well buy a ford racing 5.4L engine and drop it in. Proven to handle 700+hp for 13k + 3k for a motec or similar unit and go to town.


Grow a pair, your just angry because you have misspent allot of your supposed money on a pile of junk & now your angry because it wont work. The worlds smallest violin is playing for you as I write this.

Have a great day!!!!
Old 5/3/10, 05:25 AM
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Old 5/3/10, 09:45 AM
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Originally Posted by jaguarking11

I quote from you that mod motors cant handle anything over 7k, then we got a guy saying some customers shift @ 10.5k
? Then you ridicule the fact the motor wont handle it at all and blow in short order? However its you who has blown this magical turbo engine you have sunken lots of money in. I can only assume your motor wont last simply because your probably busting your builders ***** to the point where he is going cross eyed.
You need to remember two things, he either has or will break it. People that race like that pay to play, and don't mind rebuilding a motor every season. As I stated I can not and will not tell you to do it because it WILL break - how long it will hold together is another story all together. I'm using that as an example to show what people put parts through. Also keep in mind your talking about very likely a $10k set of heads when you do the math.

Originally Posted by jaguarking11
all forged too.
All forged is not created equally, just an assembly made to handle that RPM and survive is going to cost more than that short block.

Originally Posted by jaguarking11
So where is your 50k coming from? Because if your dropping 50k on an engine, might as well buy a ford racing 5.4L engine and drop it in. Proven to handle 700+hp for 13k + 3k for a motec or similar unit and go to town.
Keep in mind I am not going to take a side here. I just roughed this in, no labor, just parts. This would be a sleeved aluminum big bore block with a custom piston set up. These prices are also on the low side.

Assembly (Crank ($1000), rods and bolt upgrade (550), custom pistons (1000), balance (300), Bearings ($300)

Sleeved block (2700) + cost of block (2-300)

Miscellaneous ARP fasteners (500)

Quality harmonic balancer (300)

Melling billet oil pump with TSS billet gears (450)

Baffled/trapped oil pan (500)

8 Bolt Flex plate/flywheel (300)


And that my friend is just a short block built to handle the RPM. $8100 and I haven't even gotten to the expensive parts yet. From what I have read you were not discussing a plain jane motor that could get away with it, you were talking about a purpose built platform.

Originally Posted by forensicsteve
Fancy seeing you around here pass the popcorn.

Last edited by EagleStroker; 5/3/10 at 10:10 AM.
Old 5/3/10, 11:41 AM
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Originally Posted by jaguarking11
So what happened to forged pistons cannot handle 9k?
Go ahead and quote where I said the pistons were the problem.

Originally Posted by jaguarking11
And that magical 50K$$ billet crank?
Quote that too.

Originally Posted by jaguarking11
I quote from you that mod motors cant handle anything over 7k, then we got a guy saying some customers shift @ 10.5k?
Once again, you completely don't understand what he's talking about. Or what I was saying for that matter. Never once have I said it COULDN'T be done. Of course it can be done. It's not cost effective though.

Originally Posted by jaguarking11
Then you ridicule the fact the motor wont handle it at all and blow in short order? However its you who has blown this magical turbo engine you have sunken lots of money in. I can only assume your motor wont last simply because your probably busting your builders ***** to the point where he is going cross eyed.
So who's ASSuming things now? Pretty sure I've never paid for a mod motor to turn more than 7k.

Originally Posted by jaguarking11
In any case you should switch from supposedly building cars & racing to running your mouth as a politician. I bet you can win more races running your mouth.
I'm sorry but what car do you race? What car have you built? Once again, just because you go surf the internet like a pro doesn't mean you can act like you've built a **** car.

Originally Posted by jaguarking11
Also I bet an aluminator short block probably can handle what you were throwing at it. That can be had for about 3400-3500 bux shipped depending on which ford racing dealer you deal with. Couple that with 10-15 hours of assembly time for your builder & you got a stout boost capable engine for around 5k.

Brenspeed is offering their short blocks in 5.0L stroker form for about 3800, all forged too.
Oh look more internet shopping for the pro internet racer slash engine builder. Stunning.

Originally Posted by jaguarking11
Grow a pair, your just angry because you have misspent allot of your supposed money on a pile of junk & now your angry because it wont work. The worlds smallest violin is playing for you as I write this.
Oh look the dip**** thinks he knows something about what I've done. How cute. And yes, my just angry.

So you have completely misunderstood everything I have said to this point. When you develop an IQ above room temperature levels, I'll continue the discussion. Go build your stupid motor and prove me wrong, until then you're just another internet dreamer that won't build ****.
Old 5/3/10, 12:15 PM
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Some more interesting stuff I found digging around a little.

Originally Posted by jaguarking11
a better question would be how deep are your pockets?

For example, you get forged internals and shave them for minimal weight and balance them highly.
Take the heads and port them as much as possible.
Increase compression ratio as close to 13:1 as posible.
Get a custom ground cams designed for very high rpm.
Replace all the valves with titanium valves
Get some very high rpm springs (~10,000k rpm)
Replace the stock intake manifold with short velocity stacks.
Get some fine mist injectors ~39lb injectors balanced ofcourse.
GT500fuel pumps
One piece drive shaft
4:33+ gears
Very free flowing exhaust
and a very good tuner and builder

That combo should net close to or over 500rwhp with probably around 380-410lb of torque. The car will also idle around 1500rpm, and net you around 8mpg if your lucky. You will also be lucky to get 50k miles out of it.

All in all, at least 30k.
Pretty sure 50k is at least 30k. Oh and 10,000,000 RPM is a lot to ask for.

PS: You should be careful about posting your license plate number on the web, people can pull tons of info with that kind of information.
Old 5/3/10, 12:26 PM
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Hell, for kicks and giggles (since I missed that post) this is a price sheet from Brian @ Kinsler on the velocity stacks alone:




Kinsler injection manifold assembly for Ford Modular V8 oval 3,601.55
port, standard port profile, 2 1/4" throttles, aluminum
castings. Throttle shafts, bronze throttle shaft bushings,
and butterflies. Cast aluminum top adapters with spun aluminum
ram tubes. KFI bolt-on TPS boss for throttle position sensor.
Universal nozzle boss adapters for EFI injectors.
Includes shear plate for center valley on 4.6 or 5.4 engine.
Manifold stands approximately 8.25” tall with 3.5” ram tubes.

Pair of aluminum fuel rails with AN threaded ends, includes 522.60
6AN adapter fittings, stanchions, and bolt kit for mounting.

Electronic engine management system, includes: ECU 2,836.50
Electronic control unit, model: Accel Gen VII+ system
for fuel and EDIS spark control, and OEM style wiring harness.
Includes software, manual, and communications cable.
Coolant temperature sensor, air temperature sensor, throttle
position sensor (TPS)#10682, manifold absolute pressure (MAP)
sensor, manifold surface temperature sensor with billet mount,
and 4 wire O2 sensor. (EDIS ignition not included, 8250 maximum RPM)

(8) EFI injectors, #10155, 36 lb./hr., fuel up to ~600 HP @ 55 PSI. 423.20

Adjustable pressure relief valve, K-140 model with vacuum 453.85

reference and 6AN fittings. #12104, ~34-80 PSI adjustment range.

“Monster Mesh” 10 micron fuel filter, 8AN male flare ends. 154.10
Includes spare replacement element.

“Monster Mesh” Pump Protector inlet filter, 25 micron stainless 151.20
mesh element, with 8AN male flare ends.

In-line Fuel pump, 12-volt, moderate pressure and volume, 235.20
Kinsler P.N.22002. Capable of supplying a 650 HP engine at
60 PSI. 8AN male flare inlet fitting and outlet fitting.
Includes pump mounting kit, Kinsler P.N. 22008.

Bosch LSU wide band exhaust gas oxygen sensor and signal 499.00
conditioning module with internal data logger.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
TOTAL: $ 8,877.20

CONTINUED ON PAGE #2

PRICES SUBJECT TO CHANGE WITHOUT NOTICE

File: EFIFord-MODULAR-V8-GenVII-09.DOC
KINSLER FUEL INJECTION Date: 1-12-09

1834 Thunderbird


Troy, Michigan 48084 USA


Tel (248) 362-1145


Fax (248) 362-1032


www.kinsler.com


KINSLER MANIFOLD and Electronics for FORD MODULAR V8 ENGINE
================================================== ===========================
Description Dealer Price

OPTIONS:
Manifold Absolute Pressure Reference Log System, (for use on 304.15
individual runner manifolds), consists of: blue anodized billet
log, quick-release adapter fittings for log and runners of manifold,
and hose connecting. Includes labor for machining manifold for fittings.

Idle Air Control log system; includes special 3AN x 1/16 pipe 471.05
fittings, billet aluminum distribution block, labor to drill,
tap, and install fittings into manifold runners, and IAC motor
with remote housing and air filter.
(Custom hoses are ordered separately per application)

Upgrade manifold assembly with 2.0” or 2 3/16” throttles for 139.25
improved throttle control on engines with less than ~500 H.P.

Center-pull bell crank linkage kit; includes bell crank bearing, 282.85
arms, hex link assembly, hardware, and installation on center plate.
( For installation with “Over and Under” cross hex linkage ).

Fuel pump, #10211, flows ~ 420 lbs./hr. at 50 PSI. Complete with 399.40
10AN inlet fitting and 8AN outlet one way check valve fitting.

Pump mounting bracket, saddle type with (2) clamps and (3) 71.40
cushioned mounting holes.

Base program ECU for customer's application off the flow bench. 472.40

Bench test ECU for operational integrity and base program ECU for 915.90
customer's application on the flow bench.

“Swing Set” Linkage kit; for attachment to the center plate. 404.95
Includes billet ‘U’ stand with ball bearing shaft supports in each
upright leg, throttle shaft, shaft stop, throttle rotational stop,
throttle arms at each end with (2) hex rod assemblies that connect
to the arms on the manifold end shafts. (This linkage allows equal
opening of counter rotation throttle shafts and requires approximately
3.5” at the rear of the engine past the number 8 cylinder intake bolt.)


*** NOTE ****
Horsepower rated at 0.5 Brake Specific Fuel Consumption (BSFC).

Systems may vary per application, please call regarding your specific needs.

PRICES SUBJECT TO CHANGE WITHOUT NOTICE
I also have one on a pretty trick dry sump set up, for anyone interested.

http://s197forum.com/forum/showthrea...hrottle+bodies

http://s197forum.com/forum/showthrea...light=dry+sump

Last edited by EagleStroker; 5/3/10 at 12:33 PM.
Old 5/4/10, 02:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Bullitt995
PS: You should be careful about posting your license plate number on the web, people can pull tons of info with that kind of information.
See now thats a threat. I don't take threats lightly. You can pull what you wan't. However if you inflict any harm on me or others near me there will be hell to pay for, that I can give you a grantee on. You can pull what you want, however no matter what you pull does not guarantee that it is a factual depiction of a person & their associates. I think I should have a talk with my lawyer for this one, might have to subpena the website owner & ISP for info on you now. All I need is an IP & a time-line on when you are on-line. This is not a threat, however it is FYI.

Just a few things for you to chew on. Everyone who is here is not created equally remember that.
Old 5/4/10, 05:35 AM
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Last edited by forensicsteve; 5/4/10 at 05:48 AM.
Old 5/4/10, 07:55 AM
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Originally Posted by Bullitt995
Pretty sure 50k is at least 30k. Oh and 10,000,000 RPM is a lot to ask for.
nice, seems you know how to use the google. Wait for it? I am also a member of turbobuick, locost usa, and a few other forums I lurk in & more computer tech forums than I care to remember. Much like myself you seem to use your sn for everything. also seem to have a fascination with football & crotch rockets. Myspace seems a bit much as well as twitter, but we were all young once. Hell I still am. Oh and I am also an IT, sysadm by trade. Lets see here, you seem to have an f250 as well, either work or towing. Live in texas or at least did? Pensylvania a bit as well, or at least visited recently? Seem to advertise yourself as 6'6? Previous screen name is Shifty or possibly shifty1. You also had trouble with your new alienware laptop? Also seem to have lurked around ls1 tech? Seem to be doing your homework on the competition?

In any case, im not loosing sleep, I just finished a night shift and am dead tired. Have a good one, you made your point. I need a rest. Working nights makes me cranky. Drop me a line, ill even pm you my cell number if you want to continue this convo.

Good old google. Scary part is that is the tip of the iceberg, this is without trying much. There are plenty of tools out there. Beeing a computer geek I should know. Using them however is another thing.


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