Forged internals
#1
Forged internals
I'm looking at putting forge internal in my block, I wanna do a stroked to 5.0 rotating assembly, I've looked at Livernois, VT, Boss 330, I'm going to pull the moter and tranny myself. I got a Master Ford tech, now auto tech professor friend that will help with install. Just wonder if anyone here has done this yet, and what vender you used. And once it is installed what kinda of number i should get. i got 460/400 on stock internals now.
Thanx -Ken_
Thanx -Ken_
#2
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I am a dealer for JE, Wiseco, Keith Black, SP (TRW), Mahle, etc. I can provide you with all of the parts you're looking for. You will bump up the numbers significantly by forging. The amount of boost you'll be able to put in will be quite an increase. I think you should also look into a means of cooling the intercooler, such as an intercooler sprayer. You'll probably see another 75-100HP increase with the right supporting modifications (roughly). Just follow all of the installation instructions to avoid issues that normally occur (ie. clearance). If you're stock up at the top end, you shouldn't have much issues.
CR
Tillman Speed
CR
Tillman Speed
#3
youve picked the only three shops that i would allow to build my engine. im looknig into livernois over VT ONLY because VT Requires a block be sent to them for the work. Livernois offers to use their block for a $1000 core charge. id rather pay the grand and have zero downtime as my current engine is still alive. plus if you go with livernois they make the best heads out there and having msot of the stuff done by one shop is always a plus.
#4
I am a dealer for JE, Wiseco, Keith Black, SP (TRW), Mahle, etc. I can provide you with all of the parts you're looking for. You will bump up the numbers significantly by forging. The amount of boost you'll be able to put in will be quite an increase. I think you should also look into a means of cooling the intercooler, such as an intercooler sprayer. You'll probably see another 75-100HP increase with the right supporting modifications (roughly). Just follow all of the installation instructions to avoid issues that normally occur (ie. clearance). If you're stock up at the top end, you shouldn't have much issues.
CR
Tillman Speed
CR
Tillman Speed
here's the Livernois link of what im looking at.
http://www.livernoismotorsports.com/...p=1002&large=1
thank you, Ken
#5
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Yea, I think the numbers you're looking at are still pretty achievable. Forged internals will open alot of options up for you. I can match what livernois is doing for you, too. We have alot of that stuff at the shop, I'd just have to get in the crank. Tillman Speed has been building motors since the 70's, and have a great local reputation for the stuff we've built. You'll be happy with the quality of the stuff we can sell you. MAHLE is nice stuff, and we do federal mogul race bearings only as well. Are you looking for main bearings as well?
#6
Yea, I think the numbers you're looking at are still pretty achievable. Forged internals will open alot of options up for you. I can match what livernois is doing for you, too. We have alot of that stuff at the shop, I'd just have to get in the crank. Tillman Speed has been building motors since the 70's, and have a great local reputation for the stuff we've built. You'll be happy with the quality of the stuff we can sell you. MAHLE is nice stuff, and we do federal mogul race bearings only as well. Are you looking for main bearings as well?
#7
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Professional? Come on now... this is fun stuff!
I would reccommend you replacing the main bearings while you got it all out of there anyway. ARP rod bolts would be even BETTER an idea, and add to the strength of the block.
That wouldn't put you over 2600 for everything.
CR
Tillman Speed
I would reccommend you replacing the main bearings while you got it all out of there anyway. ARP rod bolts would be even BETTER an idea, and add to the strength of the block.
That wouldn't put you over 2600 for everything.
CR
Tillman Speed
#8
A big +1 for Livernois heads... and a +1000 for their customer service!
That's living dangerously IMO.
I'm just running a BAP right now and it's working nicely at 12# boost. But, I'm nowhere near 550-600 rwhp. Before I decide to increase the boost/power, there will be a total fuel system upgrade on my car. But none of that will happen unless I decide to cage the car.
That's living dangerously IMO.
I'm just running a BAP right now and it's working nicely at 12# boost. But, I'm nowhere near 550-600 rwhp. Before I decide to increase the boost/power, there will be a total fuel system upgrade on my car. But none of that will happen unless I decide to cage the car.
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The A1000 is a return style pump, and requires a return regulator. Because the mustang uses saddle-bagged fuel tanks, you'd have to figure how to make that work. Poke a hole in the tank. You'd have to convert to a full returnless system.
Either that or we can fit twin walbros in tank, and that would do the trick!
Either that or we can fit twin walbros in tank, and that would do the trick!
#15
The A1000 is a return style pump, and requires a return regulator. Because the mustang uses saddle-bagged fuel tanks, you'd have to figure how to make that work. Poke a hole in the tank. You'd have to convert to a full returnless system.
Either that or we can fit twin walbros in tank, and that would do the trick!
Either that or we can fit twin walbros in tank, and that would do the trick!
FWIW... I'm pretty sure my fuel upgrade will start with dual Ford GT pumps, and include new lines, rails and 60# injectors. I'm still in research mode, but I'm hearing more and more where the GT500 twin pump set-up has its limitations at around 600rwhp. I've even read where a couple guys with GT500s have replaced their pumps with the GT units, because they were maxed out. The twin GT pumps have been proven to handle at least 800 (if not 1000) rwhp. I'll never have that much, but since they are cheaper (and apparently better) than the GT500 pumps, it looks like the right way to go for me. But we'll see...
#18
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If you plan on hitting 500rwhp, you definitely need to do something with the fuel system. If you plan to go return style, it is definitely going to cost you more. The pumps will be louder than staying returnless too.
The twin Gt pump setup gave me no issues at all! They provided plenty of fuel (700ish rwhp). You could use a single fpdm or duals...not that I want to debate that here. I used a single fpdm w/o issue. I think the twin GT setup was a little less money than the GT500 setup, but I'm not sure about now. There's a few companies that sell a plug n play kit (Lethal Performance).
As far as the shortblock....Boss 330 Racing! CP pistons, Cobra crank, manle rods, ARP studs...and please do change all your bearings!
The twin Gt pump setup gave me no issues at all! They provided plenty of fuel (700ish rwhp). You could use a single fpdm or duals...not that I want to debate that here. I used a single fpdm w/o issue. I think the twin GT setup was a little less money than the GT500 setup, but I'm not sure about now. There's a few companies that sell a plug n play kit (Lethal Performance).
As far as the shortblock....Boss 330 Racing! CP pistons, Cobra crank, manle rods, ARP studs...and please do change all your bearings!
#19
I didn't build this car for high HP numbers... my goal was an 11-sec daily driver, not a dyno sheet. And it's a solid low 11-sec car now. I've just got a conservative 91 octane tune (about 18* timing), so I can easily drive it everyday to/from work. We haven't even put a race tune in it yet. All I do at the track is change tires. The 450-460rwhp I have now is already enough to run quicker than the roll bar rules allow anyway. But, if/when I decide to cage it, then I'll want to up the boost (at the track anyway), and I'll need the fuel system to support 15+psi.
Oh, and don't give us that "700ish" crap... some of us know it's much closer to "800ish".
#20
LMAO... Good ole David "ESPN" aka 169stang Beyer!!!
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