Ford Racing M-6010-BOSS50 Modular Short Block
Featured in March 2008 Issue of 5.0 Mustang & Super Fords page 82.
M-6010-BOSS50 $1999.00
Adding:
1.Ford Cobra 8-Bolt Forged Crank
2.Scat 4340 H-Beam Forged Rods, w/ARP 2000 Bolts
3.JE Custom Forged Coated Pistons
4. ARP Head Studs
Questions:
1. Anyyone started building their dream 5.0 modular yet?
2. Typical cost for putting a shortblock together (Boss 330 Racing)
3. Typical cost for short block swap into 2005 4.6 Mustang GT
4. What modifications would have to be made? Motor Mounts??
5. Engine management issues from going from 4.6 to 5.0 ?
Trying to eval the costs involved in such a project.
M-6010-BOSS50 $1999.00
Adding:
1.Ford Cobra 8-Bolt Forged Crank
2.Scat 4340 H-Beam Forged Rods, w/ARP 2000 Bolts
3.JE Custom Forged Coated Pistons
4. ARP Head Studs
Questions:
1. Anyyone started building their dream 5.0 modular yet?
2. Typical cost for putting a shortblock together (Boss 330 Racing)
3. Typical cost for short block swap into 2005 4.6 Mustang GT
4. What modifications would have to be made? Motor Mounts??
5. Engine management issues from going from 4.6 to 5.0 ?
Trying to eval the costs involved in such a project.
Just fired mine up today. It is a stroker also so it is a bit different. The picture you posted is of a Cammer aluminum block. The Boss50 does NOT have provisions for knock sensors. It DOES need the motor mount adapter brackets. It also DOES need some modifications to the timing cover to prevent it from leaking. Otherwise, it is the absolute strongest modular block you can put into your 3v car!! All costs are similar to building any motor except you will pay more for the block. I am breaking my 326c.i. motor in N/A and then I'll put my Turbohorsepower 76mm on it.
The piston in the bore and the old one in the piston pic is a .020 over std piston for comparison.
The piston in the bore and the old one in the piston pic is a .020 over std piston for comparison.
Cali,
Did you build, or did you have a shop do it? What did you do about the knock
sensors, deactivate or get the block machined to accomidate?
You have me drooling over this as it is my plan for next winter, minus the turbo.
do you know how much power n/a you are at now and what compression?
you should start a thread detailing your build for us all to envy...
very cool.
-mark
Did you build, or did you have a shop do it? What did you do about the knock
sensors, deactivate or get the block machined to accomidate?
You have me drooling over this as it is my plan for next winter, minus the turbo.
do you know how much power n/a you are at now and what compression?
you should start a thread detailing your build for us all to envy...
very cool.
-mark
First of all - Thanks for the input.
That engine is going to rock !

1. Is your block Alum. or Cast Iron flavor of the 5.0 modular block.
2. Why would the timing chain have to be modified and in what way?
3. Who sells the modified motor mounts ?
4. And what did you do about the knock sensors ?
5. Which engine builder did you use?
6. What was the cost for the short block swap or additional costs?
7. Also how did the extra weight affect your front end - ride height / quality?
* Have any before and after pics? I currently have stock springs.
I plan to buy all the short block parts and have Boss 330 Racing do the work for me on the short block swap. Then either slap in a Whipple or Kennie Bell supercharger much later. This is a 1-2 year plan.
That engine is going to rock !
1. Is your block Alum. or Cast Iron flavor of the 5.0 modular block.
2. Why would the timing chain have to be modified and in what way?
3. Who sells the modified motor mounts ?
4. And what did you do about the knock sensors ?
5. Which engine builder did you use?
6. What was the cost for the short block swap or additional costs?
7. Also how did the extra weight affect your front end - ride height / quality?
* Have any before and after pics? I currently have stock springs.
I plan to buy all the short block parts and have Boss 330 Racing do the work for me on the short block swap. Then either slap in a Whipple or Kennie Bell supercharger much later. This is a 1-2 year plan.
I will start a thread on my latest build. To answer your Q's specifically,
1-Cast Iron
2-The timing COVER of the 3v has a spot that does not seal correctly with this block. Same as with a teksid, mach 1, romeo etc. No big deal if you know about it and seal it with RTV. It is a HUGE deal if you install your motor without sealing the timing cover correctly!!
3-Sean Hyland Motorsports sells a great set for $89.00. You still have to shave 3/8" off the engine side of your stock mounts for them to work correctly.
4-Turned them off
5-Adam at ST Motorsports
6-Ask your local shop. I do my own work except for building the shortblock. In this case, I had the entire motor assembled.
7-It is only 60# heavier. I also installed a BMR K-Member which is 20# lighter. So to me it is 40# heavier and I can't tell any difference in ride height, handling etc..
1-Cast Iron
2-The timing COVER of the 3v has a spot that does not seal correctly with this block. Same as with a teksid, mach 1, romeo etc. No big deal if you know about it and seal it with RTV. It is a HUGE deal if you install your motor without sealing the timing cover correctly!!
3-Sean Hyland Motorsports sells a great set for $89.00. You still have to shave 3/8" off the engine side of your stock mounts for them to work correctly.
4-Turned them off
5-Adam at ST Motorsports
6-Ask your local shop. I do my own work except for building the shortblock. In this case, I had the entire motor assembled.
7-It is only 60# heavier. I also installed a BMR K-Member which is 20# lighter. So to me it is 40# heavier and I can't tell any difference in ride height, handling etc..
Interested in this, long-term...
Also CaliHP--got any other pics of the black Shelby grille?
Also CaliHP--got any other pics of the black Shelby grille?
I will start a thread on my latest build. To answer your Q's specifically,
1-Cast Iron
2-The timing COVER of the 3v has a spot that does not seal correctly with this block. Same as with a teksid, mach 1, romeo etc. No big deal if you know about it and seal it with RTV. It is a HUGE deal if you install your motor without sealing the timing cover correctly!!
3-Sean Hyland Motorsports sells a great set for $89.00. You still have to shave 3/8" off the engine side of your stock mounts for them to work correctly.
4-Turned them off
5-Adam at ST Motorsports
6-Ask your local shop. I do my own work except for building the shortblock. In this case, I had the entire motor assembled.
7-It is only 60# heavier. I also installed a BMR K-Member which is 20# lighter. So to me it is 40# heavier and I can't tell any difference in ride height, handling etc..
1-Cast Iron
2-The timing COVER of the 3v has a spot that does not seal correctly with this block. Same as with a teksid, mach 1, romeo etc. No big deal if you know about it and seal it with RTV. It is a HUGE deal if you install your motor without sealing the timing cover correctly!!
3-Sean Hyland Motorsports sells a great set for $89.00. You still have to shave 3/8" off the engine side of your stock mounts for them to work correctly.
4-Turned them off
5-Adam at ST Motorsports
6-Ask your local shop. I do my own work except for building the shortblock. In this case, I had the entire motor assembled.
7-It is only 60# heavier. I also installed a BMR K-Member which is 20# lighter. So to me it is 40# heavier and I can't tell any difference in ride height, handling etc..
Is there a timing chain cover that will seal correctly? Where do you have to apply the RTV sealant?
How many miles have you put on your beast? Any issues?
Looking at the same exact build here in SFLA. So I guess there will be
one on the west coast and one on the east coast.
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