GT Performance Mods 2005+ Mustang GT Performance and Technical Information

Ford Racing 4.10 gears are in!

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Old May 8, 2007 | 01:31 PM
  #21  
FRITZ's Avatar
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I have to get me one of those pumpkin covers, do they sell them, or do they only come with the gears?
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Old May 8, 2007 | 01:44 PM
  #22  
Burke0011's Avatar
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[quote=tom281;912106][quote=Burke0011;912073](admit it - you're just jealous because I was giving Bill's red beauty props and not your Vista - maybe if you kept your 'undercarriage' cleaner.... )

Would you like to help me clean my undercarriage? :gay:


I better go.........

Sure man........
WAIT....

NO.....

I mean...........

....uuummmm...... what??...............
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Old May 8, 2007 | 02:27 PM
  #23  
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From: Houston, TX
Originally Posted by tom281
Would you like to help me clean my undercarriage?
LMAO
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Old May 8, 2007 | 02:54 PM
  #24  
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From: SoCal
Originally Posted by FRITZ
I have to get me one of those pumpkin covers, do they sell them, or do they only come with the gears?
You buy it seperately. Just feed your Ford Racing parts guy the part number in the pic and he'll spit one out for ya.

FWIW, my installer opted not to use the supplied paper gasket, and instead, used a grey sealant similiar to what the factory uses. Also, he highly recommended using liquid teflon on the fittings for both the fill and drain plugs.
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Old May 9, 2007 | 09:49 AM
  #25  
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From: SoCal
Originally Posted by TacoBill
... Well, I was specifically told to take it easy for a 'little while'. Not sure how many miles 'a little while' is, but I'm going to try and force myself to keep from bouncing off the rev-limiter for a 100 miles.
After poking around the internet about gear break-in's, this is what I found..

Here's some new Ring & Pinion gear break-in recommendations by the manufacturers. Procedures vary, but they all hymn to the same note.

US GEARS:
BREAK-IN PROCEDURE

A new ring and pinion installed with new bearings will initially generate higher than normal operating temperatures. It is advisable to use whichever of the following break in procedures matches your application.
  • With vehicle still on jack stands and rear-end filled with proper amount of lube, run in forward and reverse approximately 2 to 3 minutes. **
  • Drive vehicle approximately 10 miles at normal operating speeds. Accelerate and decelerate several times conservatively, then let cool.
  • Do not do any heavy towing for 300 miles.
PRECISION GEAR:
1. Insure that the axle has been filled to the correct level with proper hypoid lubricant before driving the vehicle. The oil rating must be GL5 or higher. 2. Bring the axle to normal operating temperature by driving the vehicle (unloaded) for approximately 15 to 20 miles. Do not run full throttle accelerations or create any shock loads. 3. Let the axle assembly cool completely. 4. For the next 200 miles of operation, drive gently, without any heavy loads.5. If trailer towing is intended, an additional cycle of 200 to 300 miles of break-in is required without the trailer. This is important! To properly break-in a new gear set, a minimum of 500 miles of driving is essential before towing.


RICHMOND GEAR:
BREAK IN
A new ring and pinion installation, especially a high numeric ratio with new bearings, can cause an excessive heat buildup in the rear end and cause softening of the gear teeth and bearings if a break in is not performed.
Street vehicles should be driven at normal street driving speed for approximately 10 miles, then stop and let cool for 30 minutes. Do this 2 to 3 times. Towing vehicles need approximately 200-300 miles of normal street driving before being used for towing.
On circle track race cars make approximately 6 to 8 laps at slow speed, then let cool for 30 minutes. Make 6 to 8 more laps at slow speed, then 2 to 3 laps at full speed, the let cool again for 30 minutes.
Drag cars need only an initial run-in since they are driven short distances and heat is not normally a problem with proper lube and backlash allowance.
NOTE: If after the above break in is performed, overheating of the rear end is suspected, repeat the final portion of the break in procedures.


REAREND SPECIALTIES:

NEW GEAR BREAK-IN: All new gear sets require a break-in period to prevent damage from overheating. After driving the first 15 to 20 miles, stop and let the differential cool before proceeding. Limit freeway speeds to under 55mph. Go easy on it. RS Warranty also requires at least 500 miles before towing. RS recommends towing for very short distances (less than 15 miles) and letting the differential cool before continuing during the first 45 towing miles. This may seem unnecessary but it is very easy to damage the differential by loading it before the gear set is completely broken in. RS also recommends changing the oil after the first 500 miles. This will remove any metal particles or phosphorus coating that has come from the new gear set.
The greatest damage results when a new ring & pinion has been run for several miles during the first 500 miles when the oil is very hot. Any heavy use or overloading at this time will cause irreparable damage to the gear that will not be warranted by RS.


OVERLOADING NEW GEAR-SETS WILL CAUSE THE GEAR OIL TO BREAK DOWN AND THE RING & PINION WILL FAIL...OR MELT!
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Old May 9, 2007 | 09:55 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by TacoBill
After poking around the internet about gear break-in's, this is what I found..

Here's some new Ring & Pinion gear break-in recommendations by the manufacturers. Procedures vary, but they all hymn to the same note.

US GEARS:
BREAK-IN PROCEDURE

A new ring and pinion installed with new bearings will initially generate higher than normal operating temperatures. It is advisable to use whichever of the following break in procedures matches your application.
  • With vehicle still on jack stands and rear-end filled with proper amount of lube, run in forward and reverse approximately 2 to 3 minutes. **
  • Drive vehicle approximately 10 miles at normal operating speeds. Accelerate and decelerate several times conservatively, then let cool.
  • Do not do any heavy towing for 300 miles.
PRECISION GEAR:
1. Insure that the axle has been filled to the correct level with proper hypoid lubricant before driving the vehicle. The oil rating must be GL5 or higher. 2. Bring the axle to normal operating temperature by driving the vehicle (unloaded) for approximately 15 to 20 miles. Do not run full throttle accelerations or create any shock loads. 3. Let the axle assembly cool completely. 4. For the next 200 miles of operation, drive gently, without any heavy loads.5. If trailer towing is intended, an additional cycle of 200 to 300 miles of break-in is required without the trailer. This is important! To properly break-in a new gear set, a minimum of 500 miles of driving is essential before towing.


RICHMOND GEAR:
BREAK IN
A new ring and pinion installation, especially a high numeric ratio with new bearings, can cause an excessive heat buildup in the rear end and cause softening of the gear teeth and bearings if a break in is not performed.
Street vehicles should be driven at normal street driving speed for approximately 10 miles, then stop and let cool for 30 minutes. Do this 2 to 3 times. Towing vehicles need approximately 200-300 miles of normal street driving before being used for towing.
On circle track race cars make approximately 6 to 8 laps at slow speed, then let cool for 30 minutes. Make 6 to 8 more laps at slow speed, then 2 to 3 laps at full speed, the let cool again for 30 minutes.
Drag cars need only an initial run-in since they are driven short distances and heat is not normally a problem with proper lube and backlash allowance.
NOTE: If after the above break in is performed, overheating of the rear end is suspected, repeat the final portion of the break in procedures.


REAREND SPECIALTIES:

NEW GEAR BREAK-IN: All new gear sets require a break-in period to prevent damage from overheating. After driving the first 15 to 20 miles, stop and let the differential cool before proceeding. Limit freeway speeds to under 55mph. Go easy on it. RS Warranty also requires at least 500 miles before towing. RS recommends towing for very short distances (less than 15 miles) and letting the differential cool before continuing during the first 45 towing miles. This may seem unnecessary but it is very easy to damage the differential by loading it before the gear set is completely broken in. RS also recommends changing the oil after the first 500 miles. This will remove any metal particles or phosphorus coating that has come from the new gear set.
The greatest damage results when a new ring & pinion has been run for several miles during the first 500 miles when the oil is very hot. Any heavy use or overloading at this time will cause irreparable damage to the gear that will not be warranted by RS.



OVERLOADING NEW GEAR-SETS WILL CAUSE THE GEAR OIL TO BREAK DOWN AND THE RING & PINION WILL FAIL...OR MELT!
Sorry for the dumb question...but why don't they put the gears through heat cycles at the factory? It's often done in other areas of manufacturing.
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Old May 9, 2007 | 10:53 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by neil07gt
Sorry for the dumb question...but why don't they put the gears through heat cycles at the factory? It's often done in other areas of manufacturing.

I think these directly relate to replacement gear installations on cars, not after you get a new car from the factory.
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Old May 9, 2007 | 11:07 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Burke0011
I think these directly relate to replacement gear installations on cars, not after you get a new car from the factory.
I meant why doesn't Motive (Precision, or Richmond, etc) put their gears through the required heat cycles after casting/forging as part of the manufacturing process. It seems like an important step. Relying on the customer to do it would give mixed results. I'm no industrial engineer. I'm just asking.
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Old May 9, 2007 | 11:39 AM
  #29  
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From: SoCal
Originally Posted by neil07gt
I meant why doesn't Motive (Precision, or Richmond, etc) put their gears through the required heat cycles after casting/forging as part of the manufacturing process. It seems like an important step. Relying on the customer to do it would give mixed results. I'm no industrial engineer. I'm just asking.
My guess is that the break-in requires the gears to be under a mated load, something the manufacturer can't reproduce.
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Old May 9, 2007 | 11:45 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by TacoBill
My guess is that the break-in requires the gears to be under a mated load, something the manufacturer can't reproduce.
Exactly - it should be done IN the car they will be running/used in
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Old May 9, 2007 | 04:42 PM
  #31  
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Well that stuff looks familiar, LOL. Great job man. I had the 373's put in though with the same girdle. The gears are awesome. Just thought I would ask did you buy your ford racing stuff from johnbleakleyford, because the prices for the parts seemed a little high compared to them, I could be wrong its been a little while but I am pretty sure it was cheaper. IF you didnt you may want to try them for any ford racing stuff in the future. Great looking job, hope you love the gears.
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Old May 9, 2007 | 06:15 PM
  #32  
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Bill, don't worry about the break in. Just drive a little, then stop for as long as you drove, then do it a couple more times. FRPP gears are tough mothers!!

Here's my little story: the fill plug on my LPW cover came out sometime withing 3 days of getting the gears installed and all the oil came out. I noticed this when I went to put on my che axle brace and immediatly went to get a new plug and oil. After putting it in, everything still worked, the gears still make NO noise, ad everything seems fine although I'm sure they got real real hot a few times. So yeah I drove all over time for who knows how long with no rear end oil and new gears

Have fun with them!!!
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Old May 9, 2007 | 06:41 PM
  #33  
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From: NorCal
Glad to see you install those 4:10's Bill and you're going to be smoking the tires off that red beast. You will be glad that you upgraded your shifter because those rpm's will be coming at you fast now!
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Old May 9, 2007 | 10:10 PM
  #34  
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From: SoCal
Thanks guys.

I kinda thought most of the 'recommended' break-in procedures were a little over-kill.

But, to be on the safe side, I will take it easy a bit longer before dropping the hammer. That's when all hell will break loose!
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Old May 9, 2007 | 10:18 PM
  #35  
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From: Cleveland
"all hell" = rear tires?
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Old May 12, 2007 | 03:09 PM
  #36  
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I'm still on the fence with the 4.10's so I'm awaiting your review Bill. Please help the undecided! A few videos would not hurt either.
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Old May 12, 2007 | 06:12 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by bad_monkeys
I'm still on the fence with the 4.10's so I'm awaiting your review Bill. Please help the undecided! A few videos would not hurt either.
my own experience.... I wouldn't do it again. I mean they're ok, but not all that great for my every day driving, which is what the car is for me, mostly.
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Old May 12, 2007 | 07:24 PM
  #38  
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From: SoCal
Originally Posted by bad_monkeys
I'm still on the fence with the 4.10's so I'm awaiting your review Bill. Please help the undecided! A few videos would not hurt either.
I shot some 'in-car' videos today. I'll post them here in this thread once uploaded.

I love these 4.10's!



Originally Posted by nonsensez9
my own experience.... I wouldn't do it again. I mean they're ok, but not all that great for my every day driving, which is what the car is for me, mostly.
Too bad you couldn't experience the 4.10's in person before taking the plunge. For me, I really like them, but for others, it may be too tall of a gear.
My buddy Leo (Leo06GT) will get a ride in my car in the coming weeks so he can get a feel of the taller gears before commiting to it. If he feels the 4.10's are too steep, the 3.73's may be a good option.
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Old May 12, 2007 | 11:39 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by TacoBill
I shot some 'in-car' videos today. I'll post them here in this thread once uploaded.
For public release... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q-aOhtdONHI

Sorry for the shakey capture, my son had a heck of a time holding the camera steady during the acceleration takes.

At 3:05, the 1st gear roll from 20mph is unreal!
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Old May 13, 2007 | 01:09 AM
  #40  
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All gears are put through several heat treatments before they go out the door but they are not mated and run in. That is your job.
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