First track trip with V3
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First track trip with V3
This will prob be long....
I got lucky and the rain held Friday the 11th, about 48*F, 30.16 pressure, and 78% humidity, I was the only S197 GT there, and a solid crew of camaro's and GTO, and a G8 that came together. Only a couple camaros were faster than me, one third gen that was low low 11's to 10's, and a cammed + other goodies 2010 camaro that broke and they ended up putting it back on the trailer. Well to my time slips....
First run was bummed, too much tire spin, so scrap that 17 sec run.
Second run....spun top of 1st, hazed/spun the tire through second, and the 60 ft needs to be reworked when the track is prepped better and it warms up some:
2.022 60ft
5.346
8.051 1/8 mile
92.7 mph
10.35
12.296 1/4 mile
116.07 mph
Third run, really bad traction, again. Races a SS LS1 camaro, put him at my rear bumper on the launch and when I could finally give the car WOT in 3rd I just walked away no problem.
2.162 60ft
5.793
8.558 1/8 mile
91.25 mph
10.88
12.842 1/4 mile
115.2 mph
Fourth run, More traction problems, and completly missed 3rd, but stayed in it when I did get it in gear.
2.002 60ft
5.263
8.174 1/8 mile
87.39 mph
10.567
12.572 1/4 mile
112.27 mph on a missed gear
Every run in first I would feather it and about 4000 rpm I felt it had hooked so I would go WOT and the tires would light up, shift second, feather it then go WOT and the tire would spin again, then third would hook. The track was cold and I would burnout longer and longer each time but no luck to get them to hook. On a clean run in good weather I think this car has 11's in it and 12.0's in Tx heat. What do you guys say?
On the 1/8 mile I would run 8.0 N/A regularly, so much needed improvement in the first half of the track is needed.
I got lucky and the rain held Friday the 11th, about 48*F, 30.16 pressure, and 78% humidity, I was the only S197 GT there, and a solid crew of camaro's and GTO, and a G8 that came together. Only a couple camaros were faster than me, one third gen that was low low 11's to 10's, and a cammed + other goodies 2010 camaro that broke and they ended up putting it back on the trailer. Well to my time slips....
First run was bummed, too much tire spin, so scrap that 17 sec run.
Second run....spun top of 1st, hazed/spun the tire through second, and the 60 ft needs to be reworked when the track is prepped better and it warms up some:
2.022 60ft
5.346
8.051 1/8 mile
92.7 mph
10.35
12.296 1/4 mile
116.07 mph
Third run, really bad traction, again. Races a SS LS1 camaro, put him at my rear bumper on the launch and when I could finally give the car WOT in 3rd I just walked away no problem.
2.162 60ft
5.793
8.558 1/8 mile
91.25 mph
10.88
12.842 1/4 mile
115.2 mph
Fourth run, More traction problems, and completly missed 3rd, but stayed in it when I did get it in gear.
2.002 60ft
5.263
8.174 1/8 mile
87.39 mph
10.567
12.572 1/4 mile
112.27 mph on a missed gear
Every run in first I would feather it and about 4000 rpm I felt it had hooked so I would go WOT and the tires would light up, shift second, feather it then go WOT and the tire would spin again, then third would hook. The track was cold and I would burnout longer and longer each time but no luck to get them to hook. On a clean run in good weather I think this car has 11's in it and 12.0's in Tx heat. What do you guys say?
On the 1/8 mile I would run 8.0 N/A regularly, so much needed improvement in the first half of the track is needed.
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Hey, Dean, looks like we have the same basic blower (mine is a non-cooled V2). I've known for awhile that freer flowing exhaust is crucial for a blown car, but I'm still corked up with factory manifolds and mufflers and trapping at 113 mph in the 1/4 mile. Looks like your LT's help on the top end with good trap speeds.
Some drag radials on your GT with a decently prepped track and your 116 mph trap speed should be good for 11.80's in the 1/4 mile.
Some drag radials on your GT with a decently prepped track and your 116 mph trap speed should be good for 11.80's in the 1/4 mile.
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Thanks guys....but this was on drag radials. The track had not been raced on for 3 weeks before that day plus it was cold (48*F), and i have not driven my drag radials for a year so the rubber had hardened from being stored. So under those conditions my driving skill was not good enough to pull off the good times. But I always improve every time I go play.
Those 2010 Camaros......I'm not big on the looks, but they sound SICK!!!! I just love the way a cammed push rod engine sounds. I have a video of an orange one that was there (not the one that broke) I will post it tomorrow.......
Brian,
What 60ft are you running?
Those 2010 Camaros......I'm not big on the looks, but they sound SICK!!!! I just love the way a cammed push rod engine sounds. I have a video of an orange one that was there (not the one that broke) I will post it tomorrow.......
Brian,
What 60ft are you running?
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1.79 to 1.85 on drag radials launching at 4,800 rpm's against the converter. That's with BFG 275/40/17 drag radials (the old style). On the factory tires [BFG G-Force KDWS 18's] I was lucky to post 60's under 2.00 seconds, so I only race with the drag radials now. 18 psi works perfect for my car (no hop, no spin).
The V2 makes it easy to launch as I'm leaving the line at just 6 pounds of boost and it builds up to around 11 pounds of boost when it shifts at 6,400 rpm's. A twin screw blower making full boost at the starting line must be hard to get traction. I've seen more than a few having trouble with launching at our local dragstrips. In fact, here's a vid from inside my car at Bremerton Raceways last year against a 2006 Roush Stage 3 Mustang (430hp blower). He had manual trans, 4.10 gears, drag radials, smaller blower pulley, Steeda lower control arms, etc. Should have been a good match for me, but watch him fade in my rearview mirror as he struggles for traction....
The V2 makes it easy to launch as I'm leaving the line at just 6 pounds of boost and it builds up to around 11 pounds of boost when it shifts at 6,400 rpm's. A twin screw blower making full boost at the starting line must be hard to get traction. I've seen more than a few having trouble with launching at our local dragstrips. In fact, here's a vid from inside my car at Bremerton Raceways last year against a 2006 Roush Stage 3 Mustang (430hp blower). He had manual trans, 4.10 gears, drag radials, smaller blower pulley, Steeda lower control arms, etc. Should have been a good match for me, but watch him fade in my rearview mirror as he struggles for traction....
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I'm running the same DR as you. I think when I get on the track with it prepped right I will see 1.8's too and a high 11 time slip. I did 1.8's when NA. I am still playing with the air pressure in the DR, it seems high teens works best for me too though.
What elevation are you at? I right on sea level, maybe 40ft were the track is.
What elevation are you at? I right on sea level, maybe 40ft were the track is.
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I'm running the same DR as you. I think when I get on the track with it prepped right I will see 1.8's too and a high 11 time slip. I did 1.8's when NA. I am still playing with the air pressure in the DR, it seems high teens works best for me too though.
What elevation are you at? I right on sea level, maybe 40ft were the track is.
What elevation are you at? I right on sea level, maybe 40ft were the track is.
I agree that with the right track prep and tire pressure, you'll easily get into the high 11's. Keep us posted!
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Redrocket06, is your V3 the S-trim or the newer Si-trim? The Si is 6% more efficient (78% vs 72%) and makes a couple pounds more boost (all else held equal).
I'm running the standard S-trim, but see that Vortech will upgrade it to the Si-trim for about $330 if I ship it to them. They replace the impeller and the volute, and will also rebuild (new bearings/seals) if needed for an additional fee (also under $400).
MM&FF magazine did a write up on the Si upgrade recently and their test motor gained 28 hp, but more importantly, gained 53 lb ft torque by just upgrading to the Si. Click here to read the article.
I'm running the standard S-trim, but see that Vortech will upgrade it to the Si-trim for about $330 if I ship it to them. They replace the impeller and the volute, and will also rebuild (new bearings/seals) if needed for an additional fee (also under $400).
MM&FF magazine did a write up on the Si upgrade recently and their test motor gained 28 hp, but more importantly, gained 53 lb ft torque by just upgrading to the Si. Click here to read the article.
Last edited by Five Oh Brian; 12/15/09 at 01:42 PM.
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Agreed, but even on my very tame non-cooled V2 powered 4.6L 3V (making 2/3 of the rwhp as the MM&FF car), just swapping to the Si would net me 16 rwhp if I kept the boost the same. If it truly netted a couple more psi boost (as suggested elsewhere in the MM&FF article), then I'd be up 41 rwhp if tuned to take advantage of the extra boost in my setup.
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Mine is the Si trim, and I agree that article is a bad comparison. Get LT's unless you are running more boost than the factory engine can take.
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I'm tempted to send my V2 S-trim back in for the upgrade. The MM&FF swap yielded 5% more hp and 10% more tq, plus puts less stress on the engine (cooler inlet temps). Well worth the $330 charge to upgrade, IMO. I just don't want to yank the blower off my daily driver again (I sent it to Vortech earlier this year once already for a bad bearing - covered under warranty). I suppose when it's time for a rebuild I'll have them upgrade it at that time.