first Oil change
10/17/05, 02:24 PM
#1
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I went with the synthetic oil paid 70 buckss ahhhhh it was expensive but is it really better for the car or motor? please someone help me verify that i did the right thing going with synthetic
10/17/05, 03:19 PM
#4
My question a while back. Here's the thread I started...
http://forums.bradbarnett.net/index....opic=16475&hl=
http://forums.bradbarnett.net/index....opic=16475&hl=
10/17/05, 06:17 PM
#6
Team Mustang Source
I changed mine for the first time today also at 3,025 miles, but did it myself. $21 for 5 qts. of Mobil 1 (5W-30) and $13 for a K&N oil filter and $1.50 to use the lift at the Hobby shop.
10/18/05, 03:03 AM
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70 dollars is way too much for an oil change.
The benefits of using synthetics over conventional motor oils are ten fold.
As to which one is the best seems to be somewhat controversial. Not in my mind though.
If not for their lubricating properties then for the fact that synthetics suspend dirt particals much better than conventionals and allow them to be carried to the oil filer which keep the abrasives from circulating in the engine.
Brandon,
If your using 5W-30 I would drain it and put in the 5W-20 that is recommended.
The benefits of using synthetics over conventional motor oils are ten fold.
As to which one is the best seems to be somewhat controversial. Not in my mind though.
If not for their lubricating properties then for the fact that synthetics suspend dirt particals much better than conventionals and allow them to be carried to the oil filer which keep the abrasives from circulating in the engine.
Brandon,
If your using 5W-30 I would drain it and put in the 5W-20 that is recommended.
10/18/05, 07:25 AM
#9
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Yes synthetic is better. Ferrari, porsche, and vettes all use Mobil 1 synthetic...so if it's good enough foir them it's good enough for my stang. Also...70 bucks?! 6 quarts of Mobil 1 runs you around 30 bucks and plus a decent oil filter should not be putting you at 70 bucks. How much did you pay for what?
10/18/05, 08:14 AM
#10
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this topic is more subjective then objective IMHO
i personally subscribe to the "run DINO oil for the first 3 oil changes and then switch to a pure synthetic" philosophy.
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
as far as the weight, stop panicking people over 5W20 vs. 5W30. it won't make any REAL difference re: engine reliability. sure, Ford's official stance on it is that you should run 5W20. and in the crazy off chance that you grenade your motor and they happen to do tests to determine what weight oil you're running, then maybe they'll hassle you. but the same can even be said for not using Ford OEM oil filters, i would bet.
many companies have test results out there re: weights of oils and comparing them. i personally have not found any documentation showing any problem with upping the number from 20 to 30 but it's your car and your call. my last car I ran 0W40 without any problem (manual called for 5W30).
as of now (i changed my oil for the first time at ~500miles and now am on the prescribed Ford oil change schedule) I am running pure DINO 5W30 as 5W20 is impossible to find (it's Mastercraft brand, which is rebranded Esso Imperial Oil here in Canada and sold at Canadian Tire). When I make the switch to synthetic I will likely be running Motul 8100 Eco-nergy 5W30 (perhaps might go with Mobil 1 5W30 - they don't sell it in a 5W20 in Canada). I stay away from Quaker State/Castrol/Valvoline etc.
Have a read through this thread...I posted a long but interesting article on synthetic oils... http://forums.bradbarnett.net/index.php?showtopic=35427
hth
k
i personally subscribe to the "run DINO oil for the first 3 oil changes and then switch to a pure synthetic" philosophy.
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
as far as the weight, stop panicking people over 5W20 vs. 5W30. it won't make any REAL difference re: engine reliability. sure, Ford's official stance on it is that you should run 5W20. and in the crazy off chance that you grenade your motor and they happen to do tests to determine what weight oil you're running, then maybe they'll hassle you. but the same can even be said for not using Ford OEM oil filters, i would bet.
many companies have test results out there re: weights of oils and comparing them. i personally have not found any documentation showing any problem with upping the number from 20 to 30 but it's your car and your call. my last car I ran 0W40 without any problem (manual called for 5W30).
as of now (i changed my oil for the first time at ~500miles and now am on the prescribed Ford oil change schedule) I am running pure DINO 5W30 as 5W20 is impossible to find (it's Mastercraft brand, which is rebranded Esso Imperial Oil here in Canada and sold at Canadian Tire). When I make the switch to synthetic I will likely be running Motul 8100 Eco-nergy 5W30 (perhaps might go with Mobil 1 5W30 - they don't sell it in a 5W20 in Canada). I stay away from Quaker State/Castrol/Valvoline etc.
Have a read through this thread...I posted a long but interesting article on synthetic oils... http://forums.bradbarnett.net/index.php?showtopic=35427
hth
k
10/18/05, 10:23 AM
#12
Legacy TMS Member
Originally posted by FRITZ@October 18, 2005, 11:15 AM
I'm using Royal Purple 5/30 right now. And i'm still getting about 30secs of cold start-up knocking. I wonder if i switch to 0/30 Mobile One, if that would help ?
I'm using Royal Purple 5/30 right now. And i'm still getting about 30secs of cold start-up knocking. I wonder if i switch to 0/30 Mobile One, if that would help ?
10/18/05, 10:42 AM
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I may go to that, i think i'll go 0-20 and see if that stops the noise. I have been to two Ford dealers, and they say the noise is "normal". They say the new 3v 5.4 is worse. The bummer is, the thing runs real strong and smooth, and i hate to have them tear into it for 30secs worth of noise. ...sorry for highjaking the thread.
10/18/05, 12:12 PM
#14
Team Mustang Source
Originally posted by ponyboy66@October 18, 2005, 5:06 AM
70 dollars is way too much for an oil change.
The benefits of using synthetics over conventional motor oils are ten fold.
As to which one is the best seems to be somewhat controversial. Not in my mind though.
If not for their lubricating properties then for the fact that synthetics suspend dirt particals much better than conventionals and allow them to be carried to the oil filer which keep the abrasives from circulating in the engine.
Brandon,
If your using 5W-30 I would drain it and put in the 5W-20 that is recommended.
70 dollars is way too much for an oil change.
The benefits of using synthetics over conventional motor oils are ten fold.
As to which one is the best seems to be somewhat controversial. Not in my mind though.
If not for their lubricating properties then for the fact that synthetics suspend dirt particals much better than conventionals and allow them to be carried to the oil filer which keep the abrasives from circulating in the engine.
Brandon,
If your using 5W-30 I would drain it and put in the 5W-20 that is recommended.
I've also heard that the 5W-20 reccommendation is strictly to improve fuel efficiency and not necessarily engine life- but again, don't quote me on that
10/18/05, 12:44 PM
#15
Originally posted by FRITZ@October 18, 2005, 10:15 AM
I'm using Royal Purple 5/30 right now. And i'm still getting about 30secs of cold start-up knocking. I wonder if i switch to 0/30 Mobile One, if that would help ?
I'm using Royal Purple 5/30 right now. And i'm still getting about 30secs of cold start-up knocking. I wonder if i switch to 0/30 Mobile One, if that would help ?
10/18/05, 01:06 PM
#16
I had my oil changed at 1800 miles. I didn't want to wait till 3000. It was just starting to look a little dirty. I personally believe that in a new car there are are more metallic particles and the first oil change is better sooner than later.
I switched to Valvoline Synthetic 5W-20. Since it came with AND Ford recommends a synthetic blend ....switching to a full synthetic isn't a problem on a new Mustang GT. So why run Dino oil initally?
I'm not fond of Quaker State personally, but I like Valvoline, I've used it exclusively on all my cars for the last 20 years and never had ONE single engine problem. Mobile 1 is probably the best, I'll probably switch to that if I do it myself to save some money.
I switched to Valvoline Synthetic 5W-20. Since it came with AND Ford recommends a synthetic blend ....switching to a full synthetic isn't a problem on a new Mustang GT. So why run Dino oil initally?
I'm not fond of Quaker State personally, but I like Valvoline, I've used it exclusively on all my cars for the last 20 years and never had ONE single engine problem. Mobile 1 is probably the best, I'll probably switch to that if I do it myself to save some money.
10/18/05, 01:13 PM
#17
Originally posted by Fordracing200@October 17, 2005, 6:34 PM
I remember svopaul saying synthetics do nothing for the motor and qaulity standard oil is better.
I remember svopaul saying synthetics do nothing for the motor and qaulity standard oil is better.
10/18/05, 04:08 PM
#18
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Originally posted by FRITZ@October 18, 2005, 12:15 PM
I'm using Royal Purple 5/30 right now. And i'm still getting about 30secs of cold start-up knocking. I wonder if i switch to 0/30 Mobile One, if that would help ?
I'm using Royal Purple 5/30 right now. And i'm still getting about 30secs of cold start-up knocking. I wonder if i switch to 0/30 Mobile One, if that would help ?
Take the thing back and get it fixed and start using good oil.
You'll be happier in the long run.
10/18/05, 04:59 PM
#19
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I just did first change on the V6 at 1200. Break-in oil.
I told the Ford dealer that the manual calls for 5W-20. They told me they used 5W-30. They said that the factory oil is semi-synthetic and I filled with the same. The car runs great.
I told the Ford dealer that the manual calls for 5W-20. They told me they used 5W-30. They said that the factory oil is semi-synthetic and I filled with the same. The car runs great.
10/18/05, 05:02 PM
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Another note on first oil change at 1200. This is not a good comparison, but I used to work on bikes. After 1000 miles, the oil looked like metalflake. That's because it had lots of metal flakes in it!
But, that was an aircooled bike engine. I didn't look at my oil at 1200 because the dealer changed it. But I felt better that I did the change at 1200.
But, that was an aircooled bike engine. I didn't look at my oil at 1200 because the dealer changed it. But I felt better that I did the change at 1200.