Paul -- Happy belated Bday, by the way (saw that pop up earlier this week).

Is it possible to use any aftermarket anti roll bar kit and shocks/springs with the Griggs?

Also, any idea on the cost of the diff cover? (Griggs website doesn't work so well, their link for that piece doesn't go anywhere).

Never mind, found the cost myself -- $290, which makes the setup as expensive as JDM/Saleen or Steeda.

 

Have you guys seen this watts link..

http://www.techcointl.com/Watts-Link-a/138.htm

 

Thanks!

Griggs supplied us with their own adjustable anti roll bar....the kit we are currently installing uses what are known as "315 brackets" to locate the coilovers and allow the use of 315 series tires...This does require larger wheels as it positions that bracket and bottom of the shock into the back area of the wheel(see pic above), our car has 18's and clearance is fine but all 18's may not necessarily work depending on design.

I'll be the first to tell you that Griggs is not the cheapest option out there but I am sold that it is the best from my experience. Our GR40 SVO is unbelievable in the handling dept. We are currently finishing up the S197(we also built and engine and swapped the trans so it's taking longer than just a suspension swap) and we are building a GR350 equipped '67 Mustang. I can also tell you that I don't think you'll find better tech/customer support than with Griggs...they have always been great in that Dept. as well.

 

Nice find, never seen that before. Must be SMS's new supplier considering the amount of stuff they have from the 25th Anniversary model.

Basically seems like a refinement of the original Saleen design, even includes the anti-roll bar. Same price, too, at least at intro.

 

They are SMS aftermarket side. I'm thinking about replacing my saleen unit with it. What I really like is the beefier diff cover and spherical bearings instead of bushings on the links.

 

I belive the fays has options on bushings and type of bushings as well. I will be looking for the spherical ones. Soild and maintenance free.

 

Griggs also has options....they have an optional "quiet Watts Link" which includes a bushing change. The Quiet system is what we are installing right now .

 

I'm with you, man. I was just about to order the Saleen / JDM unit until I saw this.

Or should I just save for an '11 Mustang GT?

 

I know I'm late to the party, but stumbled onto this and wanted to comment.

Our system is far stronger with chrome moly alloy steel vs mild steel construction, and round tubing vs square tubing. Square tubing will flex under load, round tube will not. There is some round tubing in the Fays, but the main structure is square tubing which will flex much more under stress.

Ours is fully adjustable as well for both roll center and link geometry to get correct scrub geometry....

 

I've addressed this in a couple of other threads, There is absolutely nothing wrong with our axle attachment. They have been thoroughly tested on the track and street with no issues whatsover. We have race tested this piece at Sebring with zero issues. Sebring is probably the best proving ground for this with how bumpy it is even in the high speed corners which put tremendous loads on the suspension. Virtually no other track or street can match what we can put things through at Sebring.

 

being im too lazy right now to go on your website and look at the price or do anything in general lol.

how much is the steeda unit?

 

The Techco Watts link looks pretty sweet. They have made a couple changes that aren't in the picture. The bell crank bracket is now a double sheer type. The only problem I have with this unit is that there is no adjustments. It is made for the SMS cars which are only lowered about 3/4". Since I have Steeda springs my car is lowered 1 1/4". I emailed them about this and they said it would work fine. There brackets are very simple and I could probably make some new brackets with additional adjustment holes. I was thinking about using the Griggs unit at first with their torque arm. Now I am wondering if I can use the Griggs Torque arm with the Techco Watts link.

 

I wish I knew that I could have gotten this for you for $300 bones.

Jed

 

Steeda $995
Fays2 $650

 

sorry, if this has been explained but what makes the steeda peice better and more expensive?

 

The Steeda is a bit lighter being chrome-moly. It, as Gus stated, also used round tubing which in and of itself it stronger.

The Fays2 uses a lot of square tubing. But that tubing is doubled up and seam welded. Strength is not an issue. If you are worried about a few pounds and have the cash to shell out the Steeda is very nice. But the Fays2 is just as effective and a great value.

Steeda:

Fays2:

 

i bought the fays2 watts link from sam. it is a high quality rock solid piece. round tubing may be stronger, but to look at the picture above, the steeda unit just looks of a lesser quality to me. not that it is, it just looks it. also, the fays2 does not have any parts hanging down below the axle and pumpkin. when the fays2 is installed it sits right up next to the pumpkin/axle really nice. to me the real comparison should be between a watts link and the flimsy-who-thought-of-this??? pan hard bar & brace. as far as performance... there is no comparison.

 

There are no ground clearance issues with our unit. Ours does not hang any lower than the rear swaybar endlinks, which no one has a problem with. It testing at Sebring which can come close to or actually does bottom out a car in high speed corners we did not suffer any contact and there was more than enough clearance even in the sharpest bumps we encountered.

There is a reason we do our axle brackets this way. We are not keen on having the axle clamp also be the adjustment mechanism for the links. I've seen comments from people on how great their clamp attachment is. We don't agree. Sure it works, but for the hardcore competition many of our customers do there is a flaw in that design.

The Fays axle clamp is not only for attachment, but doubles to help give adjustment to set up the links in parallel to minimize scrub. This means that these clamps are designed to allow for some movement. In our view axle attachment should not be allowed to move for any reason. Our axle clamping is dedicated to holding the axle and nothing else. Our adjustment for the links is separate. It does not depend on loosening clamps to properly adjust it. This allowed us to make the axle attachment pieces act solely for that purpose giving them maximum effectiveness.

 

What is that flaw, and how is it bad for hardcore competition? What are the risks/dangers associated with that?

 

I like the Techo, Griggs or my system. The clunky heavy Fays and Steeda just don't do it for me.