I think I may be beyond the warranty at this point! I haven't come across any situations that warrants utilizing the warranty anyways.

There are six bolts to remove the sway bar. one at each shock strut and 4 towards the middle. Removes very easily and takes about 10 minutes.

 

First, I respect what 169stang and other serious drag racers are doing. Their thing is to build "single-purpose" drag cars and they are getting good at it (we won't talk about the gears).
mikem says that "everyone should try it" , then goes on to say that those of us that like our cars to handle will wrap ourselves around a tree. A car with stock front springs & struts but no front bar will be evil if you try to change direction in an emergency. How many drag cars have you seen get sideways mid-run, and barely avoid the wall?
The front bar should not affect weight transfer. Removing it will save a few pounds at the front (the bar is hollow), but at what cost in terms of safety?
During other discussions about weight transfer, I have refered to 169stangs' launch photo. When that was taken, he still had his swaybar.
One last thing: Racers of different disaplines(SP?) have always engaged in good natured needling of each other. If I crossed some kind of line by making people think, well...too bad.

 

Obviously you no nothing about suspension and weight transfer.

 

Obviously. I don't even know how to spell "know".

 

 

See, now I'm confused. I respect everyone's opinion here, which is why I'm thrown for a loop. I think I'll leave it on for now, but the idea was good. I guess the sway bar is not going to be a no-brainer like the hydrocarbon trap.

 

I think opinions are great. But what MY decisions come down to is opinions on people who have actually done the mod. 169Stang and mikem have done the mod and mikem says the car handles even better than it did stock. But i think its cool that yikes brought up a point about handling, cause it should be a concern. Also, the mod is a bolt on. If you drive your car with it on and somehow feel as if its endangering your life, take it off. And if you lose 50 bucks in resale too bad, you cant put a price on safety. 26lbs is some good weight to get off of the front. Im interested in hearing from other ppl whove done this mod to hear how the car handles. Just some thoughts.

David

 

I wouldn't try this mod because I don't want to ruin the cars handling. I am all about the total package.

 

I haven't actually installed this yet. I ordered it today. I have made quite a few runs with it on and have made some runs without it. My 60' times are better and do get better weight transfer without the swaybar. This is what I have noticed with 1. 60' times 2. what I feel in the car 3. and what a pair of guys tell me, watching from the sidelines. The swaybar is very easy to remove. I typically take it off before I go to the track and replace it when I get home. I am doing this mod to see what difference it will be with the weight reduction. BMR's driver is cutting 1.33-60' times. It's not due solely to the weight reduction and swaybar delete though. They do have all components on the car that BMR makes. I've also ordered the LCA relocation brackets. This should help out quite a bit as well.
I'm doing this mod due to my own experience and the weight reduction can't hurt. I wouldn't do this mod based on someone else saying, it will help to remove the swaybar. I do know that the swaybar will prevent the front end from coming up as far as possible.
Bob, as I mentioned, I was a bit punchy when I responded and it was probably a bit of a harsh response. No offense intended. I do agree that if you want more handling for corners, removing the swaybar is going the other direction. This mod is not for everyone, but is for those that are targeting the 1/4 mile track. If you occasionally run at the track, maybe still not the best mod. Myself, I have a goal N/A and go to the track once or twice a week. The car still hasn't lost it's daily driveability. I plan on being in the low 12's by June 11th.

P.S. If anyone knows of someone that is looking to sponsor a car, let me know!

 

Mikem, I find it hard to believe that you prefer your car without the front bar.

This mod is not a good idea for a street car.

The anti-roll bar functions like a transversely mounted torsion spring. As the chassis experiences body roll the outside arm of the bar moves up while the inside arm moves down creating a twist effect.

If only the springs were available at the front end to control bump movement, downforce loading & body roll, the spring rates would have to be too stiff for optimum handling & wheel control over bumps. Therefore it becomes necessary to provide a means of controlling body roll separately without interfering with the spring rates & thus the vertical control of the wheels.

Food for thought.

169stang, your car is awesome, keep up the good work.

 

First,The car doesnt handle better with the bar off.It is more for Dragracing or street racing with no corners.I am just saying I personaly
Like the softer ride It alows when off, and find that i can still take corners at a good rate.If you buy adjustable end links,Then you could customize the setting to fit your ride.
It is a NO MONEY change you can do in minutes that will better your 60FT,s.I garantee.
I find the stock suspension very bouncy and unpredictable at speed.Specialy in the corners.I am not into taking corners flat out were accidents happen and people get hurt.I like going extremely fast in a strait line.

 

It is the only suspension mod i have made and I was able to 60Ft 2.0 launching at 2,500 rpm,s.Stock tires.Front end lifted and transfered weight right to the rear end.

 

I am not trying to re-invent the wheel.For those who want to launch better at no cost, give it a try.Dont like it,Put it right back on.

 

1.85s, stock suspension, with sway bar in place are possible, and thats with the factory pizza cutter tires

 

My best on stock suspension, stock tires, with the swaybar was 1.88. I'm sure others have done better than 1.88.

 

For a drag car you want to take the front sway bar off. It takes some weight off the front end and promotes better weight transfer. For a car that's not going to be raced and primarily used on the street, leave it on. If you do both then what would be ideal would be some kind of quick connect system which will allow you to easily remove it at the track but put it back on for the ride home.

 

All you have to do is disconnect one end of the bar from the strut & the bar will be disconnected from the suspension. You will still have the weight, but if I remember correctly for every 100lbs you take off the car you gain .1 sec.

 

You actually would have to either remove it 100% or not. I don't believe you can just disconnect the bar and the links. It would rotate downward potential being a hazard.

 

You were able to get a 1.88 on Factory tires,rims and suspension?
And yes your correct about the bar rotating down if links are undone.

 

Read my post closely. I said disconnect only "one end". This negates the bars purpose while still being supported by the other side.