EastCoast07GtCs

OK, looks like trouble... Started my UDP install a few days ago. Had to stop because I needed to take care of some business. Began to finish the project today, had everything off so time to put the new pulley on. Put the pullry on after adding sealant to the key hole, and used the Steeda installation bolt. Started out fine, then got a bit tight, figured that was OK since it was supposed to seat the pulley. All of a sudden, the install bolt popped out!!!!! I'm freaking out now!!!!!!! The pulley was still not seated so I don't think I overtightened it, but hey.... One thing I did notice though after looking at the bolts was that the thread spacing was different. The stock bolt is a standard thread spacing, 1.50, the install bolt is a fine spacing, 1.00. Could that have caused the problem?

Finally, the big hit, I can't get the stock bolt to run up. It will screw in about 1/4 way, then get a bit tough, the really easy, like the threads are shot!!!

Gonna sound ridiculous since I just screwed this easy install up, but am I looking at re-tapping the crankshaft, possible with a chaser to attempt to repair the threads so I can use the stock bolt again? Or am I looking at a drill out and re-ta at a larger size?


Please, any help/advice would be appreciated. Not ready to have the engine worked with a new crankshaft!!!!

adrenalin

Well I haven't attempted a UDP install yet but since you mention the threads on the bolts are different they yes, I would have to say you stripped the threads.

tr6nut

I do stuff like that all the time - always seems its the "easy" jobs that get screwed up. I'd go ahead and try to repair the threads with a tap - what do you have to lose? Just make sure that you use the correct tap and that you blow out all the metal shavings from inside the hole.

EastCoast07GtCs

Well I guess then that becomes the next question....

I know the stock bolt is 12mm-1.50. If I try a chaser, then am I looking for that size tap? And just as important, how can I find out how deep the hole in the crank snout is? Would hate to try a repair and screw it up by tapping too deep.

classj

Well, here is the story.

There is only one right thread of bolt for that hole. That would be the same as whatever the stock one is. If you installed a bolt with ANY thread different than the stock bolt, that is the problem. If Steeda supplied the install tool/bolt and you have the right kit for the car I say they have some explaining to do.

Now, to fix the problem. First I would buy a new crank bolt or two from ford as the original one is likely damaged in some way at this point and not worth messing with. Get a nice new one.

Then, figure out what the thread size is and get a good quality thread chaser and a tap from a machine supply company. (if you don't have a local one try a grainger, MSC direct, mcmaster carr, etc) Try to avoid chinese crap taps as this is critical task. Also, you likely want a normal tap (plug tap should be ok), not a bottoming tap.

See how much room you have for a tap handle, you might have to do some finagling to get enough room (or use a star socket and ratchet on the end of the tap). I would just pull the radiator, etc to make sure you have plenty of room and light.

Also get some good quality thread cutting fluid/oil (NO WD40!!!).

At this point, blow out the hole with compressed air or brakleen and inspect the threads with a mirror and flashlight to see how bad the damage is. Then try the thread chaser first then check the threads and try putting in the new bolt. If the threads are still not right, try the tap going slowly.

If the above fails and it proves that nothing is savable. You are in a pickle. Choices would include drill and retap for a larger bolt assuming this is possible. Or possibly a heli-coil repair. But doing either by hand with the engine in the car would certainly put a big question mark in my head. Which means you would either have to grit your teeth and try to fix it, or decide what you are comfortable with. I am sure I don't have to get into the right way to fix it if the hole does need drilling/tapping/heli-coil

I know one thing. If steeda supplied the wrong threaded bolt/tool I would be on the phone screaming my head off in the morning!!!

Hope some of this helped!
Nick

classj

Just read the above. You really will not tap it too deep. You will feel where the bottom of the drilled hole is. And certainly will be able to tell when you are cutting new threads if the hole is not tapped all the way down.

Now, if the threads are really messed up all the way to the bottom of the tapped hole, and the hole was close to the length of the bolt to begin with. You may have to finish the job off with a bottoming tap.

A bottoming tap will tap right to the bottom of the hole but can not be used to start new threads or start to repair the beginning of a hole.

EastCoast07GtCs

Thanks for the reply classj, I hope I'm saying all this right. Like I said, the Ford bolt is 12mm, the Steeda supplied bolt is also 12mm. The difference is in the thread spacing. The Ford bolt is 1.50, the Steeda is 1.00. Not sure if this is the cause or not, and to be honest, if there was a wrong bolt sent I will be sure to take it up with the vendor, but right now I have my car in pieces with the fan out waiting for a new pulley. I'll try the tap first, since at this point I'm looking at a new crankshaft install if it can't be resolved.

Well, more to come I guess...

classj

I think I got it right. If the stock bolt was a M12x1.5mm, and they gave you a M12x1mm....that is absolutely the cause of the problem and would strip any hole.

The only other very very common mistake people make when installing balancers and other similar items is how they install the install tool before they start tightening the nut and pressing on the balancer. When you start, the nut should be backed off all the way and the stud portion of the install tool really has to be well threaded into the crank as far as you can before you start cranking on the nut (pressing the balancer on).

I have a feeling they gave you the wrong tool and the first 1/4 of the threads are galled. The hole in the crank might be deep enough to give you enough usable threads to save it. You should get a proper balancer install tool correct for the application. DONT USE THE FACTORY BOLT!

And make sure you buy a new crank bolt. Don't try to reuse the old one that you galled.

Hope some of this helps

EastCoast07GtCs

Yea, I got the balancer install tool now, and wouldn't you know it, it's 12mm-1.50 So that's how I tried to get it resolved, but the balancer tool won't catch. I'll try to pick up a tap tomorrow and I'll give that a shot. If I cross my fingers REALLY hard, maybe I can salvage what's left of the thread in the crank...

FordRacing

Are you sure the keyway didn't slip out and is now wedged behind the UDP? you should be able to shine a light in the hole and see it...if not that could be why it got so tight... The thread issue is not good...hopefully it's just a couple threads that got hosed.

EastCoast07GtCs

I did check the keyway first, everything seems cool. I can carefully turn the pulley until the key hits the keyway and allows the pulley on a but further. When I had the bolt install bolt pop out I checked the bolt with the pulley off just to be sure I was correct and that's when I noticed the tightness. The bolt still gets tight now just trying to hand tighten it, then gives way after a quarter tunr. At that point it just seems to spin without going in any further

Cdvision

"Ever do something right after telling yourself not to do it? "
Yeah, I said I wasn't going to do any mods to my Mustang.

SoundGuyDave

Just a general point of interest: The balancer bolt is a TTY (torque-to-yield) fastener, which is designed to stretch slightly at the installed torque. It is NOT re-usable. It must be discarded whenever loosened, and replaced with a new fastener.

EastCoast07GtCs

Thanks for the point Dave. I am gonna pick up a new bolt at the dealer today as well. Hopefully I will be able to salvage the threads that will put some stress on that new bolt....

UnrealFord

If you need a tap, A really good quality one, let me know I'll send you one free of charge, I work in a machine shop.. >> Tool/Diemaker by trade..<<

EastCoast07GtCs

Thanks for the offer, thats very generous of you.

Really concerned about the situation though and want to try and get it resolved as soon as possible so I'm going to try and find one at a local shop first.

If you have any advice about my trying to re-tap my crankshaft though, I would really appreciate it. Not something I'm looking forward to doing, but I guess I'm in it for the long haul at this point...

krnpimpsta

Ah man, no useful advice from me, but I feel your pain.

C&L supplied a 95mm MAF housing with their intake, but the screws that put the stock sensor in the new housing are threaded differently than the stock screws. I was lazy and using a power tool at the time so I just forced the wrong screw all the way down. And then the head popped off. New MAF housing, $100.

Of course, mine was not the manufacturer's fault and was 100% my dumbassery. Good luck!

UnrealFord

I would advise a new bolt like the above mentioned, Buy some good tapping fluid, Start by hand very gently if it feels wrong stop right away, Place tap on hole and give it a half turn Backwards and wait for it to kinds drop into the thread then turn forward and go slowly use a blow gun (Even though hopefully there wont be much coming out ) After 2 full turns with tap, back it out and try new bolt by hand, If it feels good go back in and finish it, you will feel the tap bottom, theres no need to give it more pressure, the Bolts not made to bottom out.

EastCoast07GtCs

Thanks for the advise.

Not gonna lie, I'm really nervous about this, and it helps when others take the time to share their experiences in doing these things. (Not specifically the crankshaft, I assume I'm the only one that could screw something as simple as this up).

I will do exactly what you suggested, and already have the parts department at my local dealer aware I will be by for a new bolt!!!

I hope to reply to this with some good news, and a real world experience that I can share if someone else runs into a problem like this.

Keystone

Since you're just going to clean up the boogered threads on the initial part of the run, everything should be fine. Go nice and slow and don't rush anything and you should have no problems.