OkieNGa

Ok all, in about a year my 05 stang will be retired from a grocery getter to the track , with wife approval, WOOT! SO here is the question, with a long term goal of getting this car into the sub 10s, should I have my internals replaced with a bullet proof rotating assembly and get a big a$$ turbo? Or spend the money now, get a bigger motor that will 'hopefully' work with 3v heads (which if I am not mistaken the f-150 uses our heads on their 5.4??), add a custom turbo as I am sure no one makes an out of the box turbo for this type of application. So with the end picture in sight, what would be the best course of action? How much work would it take to put a aluminum block version of the GT500 motor into my engine compartment?

BTW, wife is beginning to see the can she opened when she agreed to this as I start talking about roll cages for the track, 3-4xs the current HP in the car and the fact that we will probably not want to drive the car on the street .

uberPony

Fords aluminum block 5.4 is over 30,000 dollars?? That is just for the motor without converting the dry sump system to a wet sump.
You would need lots more stuff too.
you want to spend that kind of money?
I would just put in a forged assembly in your aluminum 4.6.
Using al ow powered low revving f-150 5.4 3-valve truck motor doesnt make much sense either.
There are guys getting 700-800 RWHP at over 20 PSI on the 4.6 motor.
There are several cars in low 10s or even 9s with that combo.
If it is a track car you can get twin turbos, or for the street use a big twin screw.

RadBOSS

Replace the whole short block with a performance unit (high performance aluminum block, forged crank, rods and pistons).

Install a whipple and turn the boost up.

bigray327

Why the block? Isn't the stock block good to like 800hp or something like that?

70MACH1OWNER

I agree with Radboss. If you did it right you will easily get into the 10's. Another suggestion is look around for a wrecked 03 or 04 cobra. Get the engine, rebuild it, and swap out the SC'er for a KB or Whipple. You can easily put down 650 rwhp with these engines.
Scott

70MACH1OWNER

If you re-read the original post he wants 3-4 times the original HP. A Teskid alum. block from a 96 - 99 cobra or earlier Mark IIIV can hold up to 1200 HP. Our blocks will explode under that kind of power. If it was me I would look at an iron block from the 03-04 Cobra as a base to build on. If you are wanting to build something for the 1/4 mile the extra weight won't hurt a thing with that kind of power.
Scott

SoundGuyDave

Purely for curiosity's sake, what is involved in terms of electronics with a swap to a 4V motor? With FRPP releasing the "Aluminator" crate engines with 4V heads, this type of swap may become more interesting. I have it on good authority that it would be virtually impossible to keep the OEM computer swapping to a Windsor motor, but what about a 4V?

70MACH1OWNER

Since you quoted me I will give you my understanding of this kind of swap. You will not be able to use you stock 3V computer with this kind of swap. That I am sure of. You might be able to use a 4V computer with an upgrade from Ford to run that engine or Ford will offer some kind of computer upgrade you will need to buy for their new crate engines. Contact Ford Racing for the proper answer to your question. That is the best answer to your question.
Scott

theedge67

Get a big block crate engine from Ford Racing. I've always wanted to do a big block swap on this model Mustang. For the money, you can't beat a 625hp, 600ft/lbs fully ready to roll engine that will be virtually bulletproof, and manufactured by Ford themselves. Get a Dominator carb set up for Alcohol and you have an easy 700hp engine that will be very reliable.

You also would not have to worry about any electronics in this setup. Just a good old throttle cable.

http://www.fordracingparts.com/parts...tKeyField=9287

SoundGuyDave

Interesting thought, but that is DEFINATELY not for me!! There's no way that I would trade multi-point sequential injection, DIS with COPs, and variable valve timing for a retro mountain motor... If for no other reason than it would add over 250lbs of nose-weight. I know some really don't like the drive-by-wire tech, but to be honest, I kind of like it. With the advanced tuning capability of the mod motor, we can hang all kinds of hi-po parts on the motor, and it STILL idles well, fires up hot or cold with no problems, and is smooth as silk all the way to redline. No way an older FE block with a carb and an analog distributer setup can do that. If you look at the two engines, it becomes even more illustrative. Assume a mod motor built to put out around 400HP at the crank, not all that hard to do with cams, headers, and the usual bolt-ons. 400HP from 281 cubes winds up being 1.4HP per cube, and the mountain motor puts out 625HP from 514 cubes, or 1.2HP per cube, and that with a REALLY lumpy cam, and a godawful big carb that will be extremely twitchy to tune for anything outside of WOT, and a ***** to keep idling at anything reasonable.

I will grant you that there is no substitute for cubic inches in drag racing, but the extra nose-weight would be a killer on the road course. I'm old enough to have played with those kinds of motors before, back in the day where 1 horse per cube was a pretty solid target for a street/strip motor, and some of them were pretty hairy. The Mod motor is sooo much more refined, and actually more fun to play with.

Bullitt995

Don't be so sure....

http://www.modularfords.com/forums/s...ad.php?t=84255


Granted that thread is just about cylinder warpage but it's just a small peice of the puzzle. There's been a lot of whispers about the new 3V block might be as strong or even stronger than a teksid. I've yet to see or even hear of a 3V block failing. Later on I'll put this block to the test because I don't have the $$$ to do it know.

Stick with a 4.6L there's no point in going to 5.4 if you're only going for sub 10's. There's plenty of 4.6's running 9's in streetable form, let a lone running all out race trim. Just build the internals and get yourself a very large turbo. Turbohorsepower single kit has options up to 88mm which can get you to 9's easily.

70MACH1OWNER

I hope the 3V block shows it can hold up under the high horsepower motors. But the Teskid has proven itself under some very high power situations. It really gets it's strength from the aluminum alloy used, the additional webbing and it's cross bolt main cap design. If I remember correctly the Teskid blocks were manufactured in Italy but machined here in the states. Problem is now any you can find are used and may have other issues with them. For the money I would start a big horsepower engine with a "new" steel block. Just look at some of the numbers the 03-04 Terminators are putting out.
Scott