GT Performance Mods 2005+ Mustang GT Performance and Technical Information

Eibach ProKit Install (With Pics!)

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Old Oct 16, 2005 | 09:19 PM
  #21  
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Originally posted by 2006GT@October 16, 2005, 7:08 PM
Actually, Randy B I think your ride was the reason I decided to go with the Drift Rs. I was looking for the right look/combo. Thanks man!
Thanks, I know what you mean. I saw one local to me that had these wheels, and have to have them. They actually convinced me to start looking at the new Mustang since I had a '98 Cobra at the time.

Good write-up on the spring install, BTW. And that Vista Blue is very nice!

And that Ferrari was the very first I have ever been in, much less driven. I went for a ride and he said 'you really need to drive it since you like cars so much'. I was shocked. It was a nice experience. He's not really a 'car guy', but his brother is. His brother has nine(!) Corvettes including the new C6 Z06(silver), a C5 Z06(yellow), two ZR-1s(the only '94 admiral blue w/red leather made and black '90), a '99 Callaway(red) with CF body and Lingenfelter 427 engine (my favorite) which is the only hardtop (fixed roof a la Z06) in existence(Reeves Callaway originally built it for his next door neighbor), as well as several vintage vettes including a '68 Baldwin Motion L88. I got to see them all today. Crazy...

BTW, my offsets and widths should be the same as the 18s at 19x9(35mm) and 19x10(45mm).
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Old Oct 17, 2005 | 11:15 AM
  #22  
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RandyB & 2006GT...nice rims. Looks real nice.
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Old Oct 17, 2005 | 11:27 AM
  #23  
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Originally posted by 2006GT@October 16, 2005, 4:16 PM
Sure. Here's the before. Overall drop 1 1/4 inch front and 1 3/4 rear

Any other hardware required? Adjustable panhard rod? Camber plates? Did you have to get the front end re-aligned?
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Old Oct 17, 2005 | 11:43 AM
  #24  
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good questions. Not so far. I heard all of the issues with the camber and even the panhard rod.

First the panhard: I heard some people say that after lowering the rear, one wheel basically sticks out further than the other. After lowering mine I measured. No issues the rearend was dead center.

Camber: I'm taking it to the shop this week the have the everything checked. Visually it looks perfect. The wheels aren't pointing in at the top or anything. It also drive perfect. No problem but, I will have it checked just to be sure.

Maybe I just have good luck?!
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Old Oct 17, 2005 | 11:48 AM
  #25  
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Good - that is my only "fear" - having to fool with the other items that may require attention...

Sounds like your install was about as smooth as it could be. How much ($) was the kit?
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Old Oct 17, 2005 | 11:59 AM
  #26  
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Talking

Originally posted by RandyB@October 16, 2005, 10:22 PM
Thanks, I know what you mean. I saw one local to me that had these wheels, and have to have them. They actually convinced me to start looking at the new Mustang since I had a '98 Cobra at the time.

Good write-up on the spring install, BTW. And that Vista Blue is very nice!

And that Ferrari was the very first I have ever been in, much less driven. I went for a ride and he said 'you really need to drive it since you like cars so much'. I was shocked. It was a nice experience. He's not really a 'car guy', but his brother is. His brother has nine(!) Corvettes including the new C6 Z06(silver), a C5 Z06(yellow), two ZR-1s(the only '94 admiral blue w/red leather made and black '90), a '99 Callaway(red) with CF body and Lingenfelter 427 engine (my favorite) which is the only hardtop (fixed roof a la Z06) in existence(Reeves Callaway originally built it for his next door neighbor), as well as several vintage vettes including a '68 Baldwin Motion L88. I got to see them all today. Crazy...

BTW, my offsets and widths should be the same as the 18s at 19x9(35mm) and 19x10(45mm).

I'm pretty much been a Ford guy my whole life. But I do like the exotics and Vettes, especially special edition ones...
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Old Oct 17, 2005 | 12:16 PM
  #27  
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Originally posted by red454@October 17, 2005, 12:51 PM
Good - that is my only "fear" - having to fool with the other items that may require attention...

Sounds like your install was about as smooth as it could be. How much ($) was the kit?
It went great. I had less trouble changing the spring out than I've had changing oil. Very easy. It only took 2.5 hours to do all 4 springs... That's with air tools.

I got everything, the wheels tires and springs from: http://www.groupawheels.com/driftr.html

Total price delievered something like: $2250.00 The wheels are kinda rare and hard to find.... I only found two places on the web that sell them.
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Old Oct 25, 2005 | 08:07 PM
  #28  
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Spent about 5 hours reading every mustang post on web that talked about lowering the stang. Got some great info. First, most folks are going with either the Steeda or Eibach springs. Some swear by each...all have their own story to tell. Eibach seems to be the majority rule. They come in Pro or Sport. The pro lowers the back about 1.2 to 1.4. The front about 1.0 to 1.2 The sport lowers both front and rear about .5 more than the pro. About 50% of those that lowered their car with either spring/either distance, needed to adjust the front camber. Little to no camber adjustment capability on the stock system...so, you need a camber kit. Steeda sales a camber plate for around 180. Sure makes the price go up, but right camber for 180 is better than new front tires every 6 months. HOWEVER, I called Eibach and they told me about a new product just out for the 05/06 stang. A company called SPC makes a camber bolt for $30 that can be installed in 5 minutes by taking off the wheel. It will adjust up to 1.75 camber...way more than the lowering kits are thowing things off. http://www.specprod.com/ I called the company and they told me about their web site...very cool. Go to the top of their page and select apps/products, then applications on the next page, then enter in Ford, Mustang, 2005. The EZ CAM XR part number 81260 will pop up. They even have a great "how to" section that shows exactly how to use the bolts. If you have already installed your front springs, these bolts do not require pulling them out like the plates do. Anyway, very cool, very cheap. No notching (as described by the Ford Service manual).

As for the rear, there is a bar called the panhard rod that adjust the axel left and right of center. Because it works on a fulcrum (angular adjustment), and because one end is mounted to the chasis, when you lower the rear, the axel shifts to the left 1/8 to 1/4 of an inch. I checked my stock centering (drop a line from the rear fender down and measure distance to tire) and found that the axel already sits about 1/4 inch left. Now that I know that fact, I can actually see the differance when standing behind the car. So, you may want to buy an adjustable panhard rod. (BMR makes the Best) for about 120. That will ensure a centered axel...especially needed if you go with wider tires.

So, sure did learn alot. I am going with the Eibach Pro Series off of Ebay, Camber bolts from SPC, and panhard rod from BMR. Total price, 380 not including the front end alighnment which WILL be needed. As for having someone install it...do not bother. This is a VERY easy mod that anyone with half a brain can do in their driveway. Rear springs, zero difficulty. Front, little more work, but totally doable. Several awsesome sites with instructions and testimonials.

Hope this helps.

Cheers.
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Old Oct 25, 2005 | 08:12 PM
  #29  
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What a great summary...
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Old Oct 25, 2005 | 08:53 PM
  #30  
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I havent heard of any problems with the Steeda lowering springs, why not just get them?
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Old Jan 4, 2006 | 02:48 PM
  #31  
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Hey 2006GT, you have the JLT intake don't you? I was thinken of getting it myself. How do you like it?
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Old Jan 4, 2006 | 03:39 PM
  #32  
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Originally posted by GTracer@January 4, 2006, 4:51 PM
Hey 2006GT, you have the JLT intake don't you? I was thinken of getting it myself. How do you like it?
Love it! Not only the performance aspect, but also the sound. I got the JLT / SCT x2 package from Bamachip (AKA Doug). What a difference! The butt-dyno is picking up somewhere around 30-35hp. For both, it was under $600. That's good bang for the buck baby!

If you get one, spring for the custom paint to match your stang. I think it was like $25 extra but well worth it. It really gives it a custom look. I also polished the machined alum. end of the intake to make it match my polished cam / valve (old school) covers.
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Old Jan 4, 2006 | 03:40 PM
  #33  
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Also, welcome aboard! I noticed it was your first post....
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Old Jan 4, 2006 | 03:43 PM
  #34  
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and let's get back to topic
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Old Jan 4, 2006 | 11:38 PM
  #35  
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Sorry I got off topic, I'm new...back to springs. :bang:
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Old Jan 5, 2006 | 12:40 PM
  #36  
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2006GT: Thanks for the great write up, it makes me less apprehensive about doing this thing myself. How much did the spring compressor cost ya?

thanks again man
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Old Jan 5, 2006 | 05:44 PM
  #37  
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Thanks for the feedback!

You'll have to mortage the house to buy the spring compressors my friend. I paid just under $10 at a wholesale tool place here in the Tulsa area. You can also rent them from most auto part stores (IE Auto Zone). But for $10, I say buy your own and add it to your tool collection.

Good luck. It's easier than you think to change these puppies out.
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Old Jan 5, 2006 | 08:17 PM
  #38  
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If you dont want to buy a spring compressor you can rent one, or even bring the whole assembly into a shop and have them do it for you. Ive had people come in and ask us to do this, charges about 20-30 bucks.
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Old Jan 8, 2006 | 01:04 PM
  #39  
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Thanks for the help, for $10 I'll buy a couple since I usually break stuff. thanks fellas
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Old Jan 10, 2006 | 10:07 PM
  #40  
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ok, let talk about the Adjustable panhard rod as you see in the pic my driver side is sticking out with out a drop. i have 20 by 10in rims with 275/35 tires. If I go with the Adjustable panhard rod will it pull the rearend over enough to center it. does anyone know how much ajustablity you have with it???

[attachmentid=42616] [attachmentid=42617]
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