Eibach ProKit Install (With Pics!)
Just got done installing my new Eibach ProKit. I documented the steps for you DIYers.
Let me start by saying this install was extremely easy. It can look intimidating, but it’s really not. If you have general mechanical ability you should do fine.
DO BECAREFUL! You’re dealing with compressed springs here. YOU MUST use a spring compressor kit. They are not that expensive and very worth the $$$.
Have a buddy help! A second or third set of hands come in handy. I had HadAStang and my son assist. THANKS Guys!
General Impression….
The after effect is great. I love the new stance! Best of all, the ride is a tad stiffer BUT by no means rough. The handling and steering response has greatly improved. The overall car drives better and feels very capable. The alignment looks fine, but I‘m going to have it checked this week. It drives perfect… Overall a great mod!
Tools needed….
Floor jack
2 Jack stands
Spring compression kit
Impact wrench*
Air Ratchet*
Screwdriver
Pliers
Tunes and few beers…
*You can use regular sockets and wrenches but obviously it goes OOOH SOOOO much faster with air tools.
Project Time
Rear: 45 min
Front: 1 Hr. 45 Mind
Total: 2.5 hours
Rear Install...
Using a floor jack, center the jack under the center of the differential and jack the rear of the car up. Don’t forget to place blocks in front of the front tires. With the car lifted up place two jack stands on each side of the body frame. Don’t lower the floor jack yet…
Remove wheels…. Duh.
Start by removing both lower shock mounts and the top sway bar bolts on both sides. Then remove the brake line retainer clip.
Using the floor jack, lower the rear end slowly. Let it drop way down… You now should be able to remove the stock springs.
Put the new lower springs in place. (Since the springs are shorter, you’ll have a lot more room!) Jack the read end up and replace all the bolts and you’re done!
Let me start by saying this install was extremely easy. It can look intimidating, but it’s really not. If you have general mechanical ability you should do fine.
DO BECAREFUL! You’re dealing with compressed springs here. YOU MUST use a spring compressor kit. They are not that expensive and very worth the $$$.
Have a buddy help! A second or third set of hands come in handy. I had HadAStang and my son assist. THANKS Guys!
General Impression….
The after effect is great. I love the new stance! Best of all, the ride is a tad stiffer BUT by no means rough. The handling and steering response has greatly improved. The overall car drives better and feels very capable. The alignment looks fine, but I‘m going to have it checked this week. It drives perfect… Overall a great mod!
Tools needed….
Floor jack
2 Jack stands
Spring compression kit
Impact wrench*
Air Ratchet*
Screwdriver
Pliers
Tunes and few beers…
*You can use regular sockets and wrenches but obviously it goes OOOH SOOOO much faster with air tools.
Project Time
Rear: 45 min
Front: 1 Hr. 45 Mind
Total: 2.5 hours
Rear Install...
Using a floor jack, center the jack under the center of the differential and jack the rear of the car up. Don’t forget to place blocks in front of the front tires. With the car lifted up place two jack stands on each side of the body frame. Don’t lower the floor jack yet…
Remove wheels…. Duh.
Start by removing both lower shock mounts and the top sway bar bolts on both sides. Then remove the brake line retainer clip.
Using the floor jack, lower the rear end slowly. Let it drop way down… You now should be able to remove the stock springs.
Put the new lower springs in place. (Since the springs are shorter, you’ll have a lot more room!) Jack the read end up and replace all the bolts and you’re done!
More rear pics...
Front Install
Place the floor jack in the center of the front cross-member and lift the front end. Same as the back… place jack stands under the frame on both sides.
Remove Wheels…. Duh.
Remove both lower strut mounting bolts, top roll-bar bolt and brake line mount. You’ll also need to pop out the ABS wire retainer. This is just one of those push-in fasteners.
Move to the top/engine bay. Have your buddy support/hold the strut while you remove the 4 nuts on the strut tower. Ease out the strut assembly.
Now you’re ready to compress the spring…. Using the kit, compress the spring down enough for it to spin freely within the strut assembly. When and only when the spring moves freely can you remove the top strut nut. Remove the top strut nut and the upper strut retainer. BECAREFUL when handling the retainer. If it pops open, you’ll lose all of the ball bearing inside. Remove the stock spring.
New spring… Compress the new spring. Once compressed, slide it on the assembly making sure you install the bumpstop and dust boot according the manufactures instructions. Once you have the new compressed spring on the assembly, replace the upper retainer and bolt. Note: the assembly has slot on the bottom that the springs fits in to. Make sure it is in this slot or ride height and/or handling will be affected! Once the retainer and bolt are on and tightened, loosen the compression on the spring. You now have the final strut assembly!
Finally, replace the assembly in reverse order and you’re done. Just repeat these steps on the other side and you’ll have a low and mean handling machine!
Hope this helps!
Place the floor jack in the center of the front cross-member and lift the front end. Same as the back… place jack stands under the frame on both sides.
Remove Wheels…. Duh.
Remove both lower strut mounting bolts, top roll-bar bolt and brake line mount. You’ll also need to pop out the ABS wire retainer. This is just one of those push-in fasteners.
Move to the top/engine bay. Have your buddy support/hold the strut while you remove the 4 nuts on the strut tower. Ease out the strut assembly.
Now you’re ready to compress the spring…. Using the kit, compress the spring down enough for it to spin freely within the strut assembly. When and only when the spring moves freely can you remove the top strut nut. Remove the top strut nut and the upper strut retainer. BECAREFUL when handling the retainer. If it pops open, you’ll lose all of the ball bearing inside. Remove the stock spring.
New spring… Compress the new spring. Once compressed, slide it on the assembly making sure you install the bumpstop and dust boot according the manufactures instructions. Once you have the new compressed spring on the assembly, replace the upper retainer and bolt. Note: the assembly has slot on the bottom that the springs fits in to. Make sure it is in this slot or ride height and/or handling will be affected! Once the retainer and bolt are on and tightened, loosen the compression on the spring. You now have the final strut assembly!
Finally, replace the assembly in reverse order and you’re done. Just repeat these steps on the other side and you’ll have a low and mean handling machine!
Hope this helps!
And after... Nice
Next up exhaust. Stay tuned....
Next up exhaust. Stay tuned....
Sure. Here's the before. Overall drop 1 1/4 inch front and 1 3/4 rear
Here the front before and after....
The way it turned out... The first pic is after and the 2nd pic is befroe....
Originally posted by f1-cobra@October 16, 2005, 5:23 PM
Looks great.
It really makes a big difference. The before picture looks like you still have the jack stands holding the car up.
Looks great.
Ha! No kidding.
Originally posted by 2006GT@October 16, 2005, 5:57 PM
And after... Nice
Next up exhaust. Stay tuned....
And after... Nice
Next up exhaust. Stay tuned....
john
Originally posted by jwgroovin@October 16, 2005, 6:08 PM
Looks great but it's making me leary of lowering my own car: I've got 275s up front...
john
Looks great but it's making me leary of lowering my own car: I've got 275s up front...
john
Hmmmm... You should be fine. 275 will be wider than my 255's. But not by too much. I wouldn't worry about clearance. I was worried about height clearance and it's not a problem at all.
Geez, now it's even harder to wait for my VB GT.
Any scraping driving around, or is it still high enough not to cause a problem?
Also, when you get it aligned, are you planning on slotting the strut mount? Or are you getting camber plates? Let me know as i'm really wanted to get the Eibach and not wanting to have to get camber plates.
Any scraping driving around, or is it still high enough not to cause a problem?
Also, when you get it aligned, are you planning on slotting the strut mount? Or are you getting camber plates? Let me know as i'm really wanted to get the Eibach and not wanting to have to get camber plates.
Originally posted by FinlayZJ@October 16, 2005, 7:09 PM
Geez, now it's even harder to wait for my VB GT.
Any scraping driving around, or is it still high enough not to cause a problem?
Also, when you get it aligned, are you planning on slotting the strut mount? Or are you getting camber plates? Let me know as i'm really wanted to get the Eibach and not wanting to have to get camber plates.
Geez, now it's even harder to wait for my VB GT.
Any scraping driving around, or is it still high enough not to cause a problem?
Also, when you get it aligned, are you planning on slotting the strut mount? Or are you getting camber plates? Let me know as i'm really wanted to get the Eibach and not wanting to have to get camber plates.
Congrats! Car looks great. I came close to getting 18s because I was concerned with ride quality, but decided to go ahead with the 19s. I got the same wheels as you have (ROH Drift R). Did you make your choice for that reason as well? I have H&R springs, which only provide a slight drop (1"F/.75"R). I think that once I get some Bilstein (or similar) shocks and struts made for lowered Mustangs my car will ride just fine, although it isn't bad by any means. I drove a friend's Ferrari 360 Modena Spyder F1 today, and it rode quite a bit rougher than my Mustang so that made me feel a little better. Anyways, here's a pic:
jwgroovin, I have 275s on the front with no problems.
jwgroovin, I have 275s on the front with no problems.
Originally posted by RandyB@October 16, 2005, 7:49 PM
Congrats! Car looks great. I came close to getting 18s because I was concerned with ride quality, but decided to go ahead with the 19s. I got the same wheels as you have (ROH Drift R). Did you make your choice for that reason as well? I have H&R springs, which only provide a slight drop (1"F/.75"R). I think that once I get some Bilstein (or similar) shocks and struts made for lowered Mustangs my car will ride just fine, although it isn't bad by any means. I drove a friend's Ferrari 360 Modena Spyder F1 today, and it rode quite a bit rougher than my Mustang so that made me feel a little better. Anyways, here's a pic:
jwgroovin, I have 275s on the front with no problems.

Congrats! Car looks great. I came close to getting 18s because I was concerned with ride quality, but decided to go ahead with the 19s. I got the same wheels as you have (ROH Drift R). Did you make your choice for that reason as well? I have H&R springs, which only provide a slight drop (1"F/.75"R). I think that once I get some Bilstein (or similar) shocks and struts made for lowered Mustangs my car will ride just fine, although it isn't bad by any means. I drove a friend's Ferrari 360 Modena Spyder F1 today, and it rode quite a bit rougher than my Mustang so that made me feel a little better. Anyways, here's a pic:
jwgroovin, I have 275s on the front with no problems.

Looking awesome Bud! Loving the Drifts! Almost went with the 19in. Either one looks great. Thanks for comments!
360 Modena... No sweat.
No really. Nice ride.
Actually, Randy B I think your ride was the reason I decided to go with the Drift Rs. I was looking for the right look/combo. Thanks man!
Originally posted by RandyB@October 16, 2005, 6:49 PM
Congrats! Car looks great. I came close to getting 18s because I was concerned with ride quality, but decided to go ahead with the 19s. I got the same wheels as you have (ROH Drift R). Did you make your choice for that reason as well? I have H&R springs, which only provide a slight drop (1"F/.75"R). I think that once I get some Bilstein (or similar) shocks and struts made for lowered Mustangs my car will ride just fine, although it isn't bad by any means. I drove a friend's Ferrari 360 Modena Spyder F1 today, and it rode quite a bit rougher than my Mustang so that made me feel a little better. Anyways, here's a pic:
jwgroovin, I have 275s on the front with no problems.

Congrats! Car looks great. I came close to getting 18s because I was concerned with ride quality, but decided to go ahead with the 19s. I got the same wheels as you have (ROH Drift R). Did you make your choice for that reason as well? I have H&R springs, which only provide a slight drop (1"F/.75"R). I think that once I get some Bilstein (or similar) shocks and struts made for lowered Mustangs my car will ride just fine, although it isn't bad by any means. I drove a friend's Ferrari 360 Modena Spyder F1 today, and it rode quite a bit rougher than my Mustang so that made me feel a little better. Anyways, here's a pic:
jwgroovin, I have 275s on the front with no problems.

What size tires do you run front/rear, and whats the offset on those rims?



