Are the tokicos the only one where you can adjust both settings?

 

Understand, that on the Tokico the bump and rebound are not independently adjusted. With a turn of a screw, both are changed a predetermined amount at the same time.

Koni maks a single adjustable (rebound), but last I checked, they had no offering for the new Mustang. KYB also offers adjustable (probably rebound onl) but they also do no list a 05 Mustang as yet.

I have not seen any others out there yet unless maybe they are a specialty unit for racing.

 

Ok so they adjust both at the same time...gotcha. I have not seen any others except for the ones on BMR's website QA1 but they are only rears.

How do you adjust the back ones....im guessing the front is easy under the hood.

 

I don't have mine it my hot hands yet (on their way).

here is the website. Nothing conclusive, but the fronts are probably on top.

http://www.tokicogasshocks.com/car/d-spec.html

A few people on the forum have them already, perhaps they will chime in on the adjustment.

 

I ordered them anyway I also plan to order the sway bars as well...just seeing if they will price match.

 

Good luck. Keep me posted how you like them. I plan to experiment a bit with mine.

 

Ok everyone...I've got 'em!
First things first. You can smooth out the bumpy ride. However, you do not get back to the original factory ride...you get somewhere else. It's hard to explain other than, this is probably the best compromise, and everyone can adjust to their ride to their taste.

They are really easy to adjust, the rear shocks too. Only problem with the rear is the shaker 1000 speaker in the trunk, you have to reach around it a bit to get to the right tower...but really its's easy.

Strange disocvery. When I lowered the car at first, I did not need to adjust the camber. With the Tokicos, I now am at the far edge of the factory specs...so I have ordered the camber adjustment kit (the eccentric bolt version). I can't explain why this is, other than I guess the factory shocks were under so much pressure, that they held the wheels differenty. Perhaps someone more knowledgeble than I can explain. But I think this also explains the performance difference. The car drives really differently with these shocks..smoother, but you loose that feel of a go kart. Sadly, there was such a tight feel before, and that has loosened up slightly. Perhaps you can get this back by adjusting the Tokico's really stiff...but that would defeat the purpose for me. Anyway, I'm still playing around adjusting front and back differently. At the moments I've got the rear at five turns softer than full stiff, and the fronts at 4 tuens softer. This seems to be pretty balanced. I think this is a pretty good solution combined with the Tokicos.

Last remark, I also installed a front Steeda Steel Strut Brace. I thought this would do nothing other than dress up the engine compartment. This really effects the way the car feels. Mostly it makes the front feel a lot heavier to move...And I do not understand why that would be...anybody? But it's not a bad addition, just adds one more equation into figuring out the best combination of shock tension, etc. I suppose I coudl add in a sway bar, but I think i don't need it. I still don't think I need a Panhard bar either.

Good luck, and any "usefull" feedback would be appreciated.

PS, although I haven't driven the car on a track since the mods, nor on mountain roads, I did do a 400 mile road trip this weekend, average speed 80MPH, and had the car up to 110MPH for extended periods of time. The car was steady as a rock (except for the hood that looks like its going to blow off).

 

could be alot of factors, what tire width do you have in the front, changed from stock more footprint, adding the tower keeps the body roll down making more adhension in the front, if your suspension is too tight you are feeling the front grip of the tires holding you from changing input controls quickly.

Before you were experincing some body roll which was changing the outside and inside tire camber making the car turn in easier.

If you have two settings make the rebound softer front and rear and get a camber adjustment kit and dial in about 1 degree of negative camber.

 

The camber is likley off now with this kit because of assembly tolerances between the stock strut and the upright and the Tokico D Spec to the upright.

Still waiting for my Tokico's to show up at the doorstep.

Actually I think the tower brace only keeps the outside tower from deflecting, which in turn affects the outside wheel camber, body roll should be nil effect unless you change sway bars, springs or otherwise do something mechanical to raise the roll centers. When you lower these cars, in the front the roll center drops. This can only be corrected by dropping the outer lower ball joint or raising the inner arm pivot axis ... both which Steeda caters to.

 

I have Eibach manufactured coilover springs and Dspec shock/struts. My spring rates are a bit higher than the pro-kit, though. I have the Dspecs at 5 turns out from full hard and the ride is only marginally harsher than stock with the stock tires. My girlfreind didn't even notice any difference riding around town. In a couple weeks, Ill be doing some test and tuning with the damping.

 

The ride is bumpy but that's what you get when you go aftermarket. Its not something that I can't bear, though. I love the feeling of being planted on the ground and actually feeling the ground sometimes...then again, i dont live near too many bumpy roads.

 

My roads stink...and sometimes its a bit much......but then I hit a turn and the car just digs and I forget the bumps for a lil longer.

 

I have not installed my Eibach springs yet, and I'm beginning to wonder if I should have got the Steedas. I also bought the Tokico D-specs and adj. panhard bar so we will so how that goes. Has anyone on here ridden in both a steeda and eibach equipped spring mustang yet?

 

I added the D specs this weekend and I'm in love. I hate I waited so long, but easily worth every penny !!
I also have the Eibach Pro kit.

Thanks Mike

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(johney5 @ January 23, 2006, 3:27 PM) Quoted post</div><div class='quotemain'>
Strange disocvery. When I lowered the car at first, I did not need to adjust the camber. With the Tokicos, I now am at the far edge of the factory specs...so I have ordered the camber adjustment kit (the eccentric bolt version). I can't explain why this is, other than I guess the factory shocks were under so much pressure, that they held the wheels differenty.
[/b][/quote]

I would be willing to put money on the fact that you had it aligned right after installing the new springs. But now, you are actually sitting LOWER than you were when they were first installed because the springs have settled. Which causes your camber to worse...

The reason I say this is I know my Eibach Pro's settled about 3/8" from when they were first installed to about three months after they were installed. I know it was 3/8" because when I first installed them, my floor jack would JUST clear the bump in the center of the K-member and go under it to jack the front of the car up. After three months, the jack was about 3/8" too high to clear the bottom of the bump.

Spring settle under load.

Oh, and the D-Specs are sounding better and better every time I hear about them!

 

The strut is just a mechanical telescoping bar. The gas pressue likely does not make enough of a difference. Spring settling probably explains most of the difference. But the other factor often not considered is fabrication tolerance stackup. The Tockio mounting point tolerance stack up relative to the rest of the strut can be just a little different than the stock one. Every little difference add's up.

 

Anybody have much trouble with suspension travel? When i was installing the rear springs i noticed that there wasnt much distance between the bumpstop and the plate it contacts. 3 inchs at best.

And yes its a rougher ride but darn does it handle

I installed the prokit,dspecs, and eibach sway bars all at the same time.

 

Well if you lower an inch you give up an inch of bump travel. Design bump is nominal 3.4 and 3.5 F&R respectively. So at 1" drop you give up 30% and 29% of bump travel respectively. Herein lies the one reason you need stiffer springs when you lower the car, so they can do the same amount of work in less travel. Sounds like you did the whole thing, and there is not much else you can do to get bounce travel back w/o spending a lot of money.

 

the springs have settled, and now im at about 1&1/2 inch's on both sides. my rear end bottoms out just going down the bumpy road i live down. I thought something had come loose, I crawled under and looked and felt and tugged on everything it seems fine.

 

That must be one heck of a bumpy road to make you bottom out. I only have one place where I can bottom out the suspension and that's a major dip on one road that I travel on almost every day but I have to hit it at nearly twice the posted speed limit.