GT Performance Mods 2005+ Mustang GT Performance and Technical Information
View Poll Results: Which driveshaft?
Coast Driveline
14
48.28%
Denny's
15
51.72%
Voters: 29. You may not vote on this poll

Which driveshaft????

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 2/8/07, 10:03 AM
  #1  
Member
Thread Starter
 
07GT_BLACK's Avatar
 
Join Date: September 27, 2006
Posts: 36
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Which driveshaft????

Which driveshaft?? Coast Driveline's 4" Aluminum or Denny's 3" Steel? I was looking at the deal that Tillman had on the Coast, but the Denny's shaft looks like a nice unit as well. I am not lowered and do not plan on lowering, so there should be no clearance issues with either unit. I will probably stay N/A, so strength will not be an issue with either unit. I'm just looking for a top quality, lightweight drive shaft for a good price. Performance and quality is my #1 concern.
Old 2/8/07, 10:08 AM
  #2  
3rd Times A Charm
 
S197 GT's Avatar
 
Join Date: February 17, 2005
Posts: 2,460
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by 07GT_BLACK
Which driveshaft?? Coast Driveline's 4" Aluminum or Denny's 3" Steel? I was looking at the deal that Tillman had on the Coast, but the Denny's shaft looks like a nice unit as well. I am not lowered and do not plan on lowering, so there should be no clearance issues with either unit. I will probably stay N/A, so strength will not be an issue with either unit. I'm just looking for a top quality, lightweight drive shaft for a good price. Performance and quality is my #1 concern.
For your application, I'd go with the Denny's simply because it's a little cheaper. Both will be great quality, but since your not looking to get blown or anything, performance is not your top priority.

I'd just save a few bucks and go with the Denny's.
Old 2/8/07, 10:42 AM
  #3  
Mach 1 Member
 
Lowe!'s Avatar
 
Join Date: December 18, 2004
Posts: 669
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
I'm wondering the same thing. For n/a, I am debating the extra ~6 lbs Denny's steel 3" shaft weighs. However the few extra pounds is on a smaller diameter shaft, so the physics of reducing roataing mass may be better on the 3" diameter. Any physicists around here???
Going N/A, I'm gonna need all the help I can get to up RWHP.
Old 2/8/07, 10:45 AM
  #4  
Former Vendor
 
TillmanSpeed's Avatar
 
Join Date: January 11, 2007
Location: Aston, PA
Posts: 2,594
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Of course I am going to be biased, but the 4" shaft is said to be more stable at high speed. I do not have tests confirming that, no am I saying that Denny doesn't have a quality product.

Also, aluminum has better dampening characteristics. But nobody has claimed that the steel has made noise, either.

You can't go wrong either way!

CR
Tillman Speed
Old 2/8/07, 11:29 AM
  #5  
 
cobra4548's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 27, 2006
Posts: 1,225
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by TillmanSpeed
Of course I am going to be biased, but the 4" shaft is said to be more stable at high speed. I do not have tests confirming that, no am I saying that Denny doesn't have a quality product.

Also, aluminum has better dampening characteristics. But nobody has claimed that the steel has made noise, either.

You can't go wrong either way!

CR
Tillman Speed
Does anyone have dyno numbers for before and after of the aluminum or Denny's drivshaft? I am curious as to how much RWHP you pick up, really-not just guess or speculation.
Old 2/8/07, 11:33 AM
  #6  
Mach 1 Member
 
awakeinAZ's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 16, 2006
Posts: 913
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
I would likely support a TMS advertiser first .....if I was in the market and they were comparable products.
Old 2/8/07, 11:38 AM
  #7  
Legacy TMS Member
 
Glenn's Avatar
 
Join Date: August 7, 2006
Location: In Boredom
Posts: 15,816
Received 779 Likes on 568 Posts
so the aluminum shaft is 4 pounds lighter than the 3" steel one? How much lighter are they than the stock oem piece? Is the stock shaft a 4"?
Old 2/8/07, 11:49 AM
  #8  
Member
Thread Starter
 
07GT_BLACK's Avatar
 
Join Date: September 27, 2006
Posts: 36
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
If memory serves me right, the stock piece is around 45 lbs.
Old 2/8/07, 11:51 AM
  #9  
Former Vendor
 
TillmanSpeed's Avatar
 
Join Date: January 11, 2007
Location: Aston, PA
Posts: 2,594
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Here are a few references from people who are using, AND HAVE BEEN, using the Coast Driveline shaft.

Allen Crocket, the founder of Barber SVT Racing school and the Barber Driving Experience uses this on their S197 and won 2 out of 3 races with it! Here is their website. You can call and talk to him if you'd like.

http://www.barberdrivingexperience.com/

Another good reference is Extreme Automotive of California. They just installed this on SubZero05 (Chris from B&M)'s car. They can tell you about the ease of installation and fitment for the magazine project car they installed it in yesterday. Here is their website, give them a shout!

http://www.teamextreme.net

As far as horsepower numbers, no idea but both of the sources above claimed that it FELT like a 30 horsepower difference. These guys do race cars for a living. I would like to get a dyno graph to get some actual PROVEN numbers!

You have to remember that this mod wont increase horsepower significantly, it just allow you to get up to RPM quicker, and reduces rotating mass. This allows for less drivetrain power loss to the wheels. That is where you "pick up" your power.
Old 2/8/07, 11:52 AM
  #10  
Former Vendor
 
TillmanSpeed's Avatar
 
Join Date: January 11, 2007
Location: Aston, PA
Posts: 2,594
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
The stock piece is around 45 pounds, and is a 2.76 or 2.78" diameter I believe.

The aluminum is 4" diameter for high speed stability and weighs 17lbs. It uses all Dana-Spicer hardware as well.

CR
Tillman Speed
Old 2/8/07, 12:17 PM
  #11  
Former Vendor
 
TillmanSpeed's Avatar
 
Join Date: January 11, 2007
Location: Aston, PA
Posts: 2,594
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
No matter which driveshaft you purchase, here is a tip:

Clean the dirt and grime off of the bolts for the adaptor. If you don't the stuff that gets gunked up on them actually wont allow the bolt to fit. Clean them off, and replace with some sort of a thread sealer if you feel it's neccesary. It can't hurt. Make sure to tighten the bolts in your standard criss-cross pattern, and use proper torque specs.

The Coast driveline flange is machined to 0 so these puppies are a tight fit!

CR
Tillman Speed
Old 2/8/07, 12:22 PM
  #12  
Cobra Member
 
subzero05's Avatar
 
Join Date: January 7, 2005
Posts: 1,252
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by TillmanSpeed
Here are a few references from people who are using, AND HAVE BEEN, using the Coast Driveline shaft.

Allen Crocket, the founder of Barber SVT Racing school and the Barber Driving Experience uses this on their S197 and won 2 out of 3 races with it! Here is their website. You can call and talk to him if you'd like.

http://www.barberdrivingexperience.com/

Another good reference is Extreme Automotive of California. They just installed this on SubZero05 (Chris from B&M)'s car. They can tell you about the ease of installation and fitment for the magazine project car they installed it in yesterday. Here is their website, give them a shout!

http://www.teamextreme.net

As far as horsepower numbers, no idea but both of the sources above claimed that it FELT like a 30 horsepower difference. These guys do race cars for a living. I would like to get a dyno graph to get some actual PROVEN numbers!

You have to remember that this mod wont increase horsepower significantly, it just allow you to get up to RPM quicker, and reduces rotating mass. This allows for less drivetrain power loss to the wheels. That is where you "pick up" your power.

Extreme's website is being re-worked and down for now. If you want to reach them call 818 883 8836
Old 2/8/07, 01:33 PM
  #13  
Former Vendor
 
TillmanSpeed's Avatar
 
Join Date: January 11, 2007
Location: Aston, PA
Posts: 2,594
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
I only have a few driveshafts left in stock! If you're looking for a great buy, and a great product, this is it!

CR
Tillman Speed
Old 2/8/07, 03:01 PM
  #14  
Bullitt Member
 
mikeelia's Avatar
 
Join Date: April 20, 2005
Posts: 350
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by 07GT_BLACK
Which driveshaft??
Spyder's.

Mike E
Old 2/8/07, 03:21 PM
  #15  
Legacy TMS Member
 
70MACH1OWNER's Avatar
 
Join Date: January 9, 2005
Location: New Carlisle, Ohio (20 miles north of Dayton)
Posts: 6,982
Likes: 0
Received 6 Likes on 6 Posts
I have a really stupid question I guess. If one of these guys makes a 3 inch aluminum driveshaft....it seems it should handle at least 400 hp for us guys that are not going to go with nitrous or supercharge or turbo. I don't need a driveshaft that will handle 750 hp. How about some of you other guys??????????
Scott
Old 2/8/07, 03:35 PM
  #16  
Former Vendor
 
TillmanSpeed's Avatar
 
Join Date: January 11, 2007
Location: Aston, PA
Posts: 2,594
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Scott,

Not a stupid question. The 3" is actually a steel driveshaft, but very light. Neither of these is about buying a 750hp driveshaft, yet they would be able to handle it. I know that at high speeds, the 4" driveshaft is more stable, and still 6 lbs. less rotating mass. Like I said above, though. You can't go wrong with either. You'll benefit with both.

CR
Tillman Speed
Old 2/8/07, 03:43 PM
  #17  
Legacy TMS Member
 
70MACH1OWNER's Avatar
 
Join Date: January 9, 2005
Location: New Carlisle, Ohio (20 miles north of Dayton)
Posts: 6,982
Likes: 0
Received 6 Likes on 6 Posts
Originally Posted by TillmanSpeed
Scott,

Not a stupid question. The 3" is actually a steel driveshaft, but very light. Neither of these is about buying a 750hp driveshaft, yet they would be able to handle it. I know that at high speeds, the 4" driveshaft is more stable, and still 6 lbs. less rotating mass. Like I said above, though. You can't go wrong with either. You'll benefit with both.

CR
Tillman Speed

Hey CR,
You may have explained in another thread why a 4" driveshaft is more stable than a 3" driveshaft but I would like to ask you to tell us WHY again. Because a 4" dia. shaft that is out of balance 1/8 of a gram will vibrate more than a 3" dia. shaft with the same balance. So I guess I don't understand. Help me. Ooooh by the way... I normally keep it under a 120 mph on my way to work everyday.
Scott
Old 2/8/07, 03:54 PM
  #18  
Former Vendor
 
TillmanSpeed's Avatar
 
Join Date: January 11, 2007
Location: Aston, PA
Posts: 2,594
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by 70MACH1OWNER
Hey CR,
You may have explained in another thread why a 4" driveshaft is more stable than a 3" driveshaft but I would like to ask you to tell us WHY again. Because a 4" dia. shaft that is out of balance 1/8 of a gram will vibrate more than a 3" dia. shaft with the same balance. So I guess I don't understand. Help me. Ooooh by the way... I normally keep it under a 120 mph on my way to work everyday.
Scott
LOL

Okay, its within 1/8 of a gram balanced. Aluminum dampens better than steel, so if anything it will vibrate less. With more of a circumferance, it's actually more stable at high speed (also known as critical speed). It actually works the opposite, steel will theoretically make more noise.

This is also 6 pounds lighter, but you have to ask yourself how thin steel has to be to be that lights. Again, not knocking on their quality at all and you can't go wrong either way. The justification for this one being 40 dollars more is it's aluminum, 6 pounds lighter, machined to 0, same warranty, and will dampen vibration better than steel (especially with the 3" teflon coated spline stub).

CR
Tillman Speed
Old 2/8/07, 04:09 PM
  #19  
Legacy TMS Member
 
70MACH1OWNER's Avatar
 
Join Date: January 9, 2005
Location: New Carlisle, Ohio (20 miles north of Dayton)
Posts: 6,982
Likes: 0
Received 6 Likes on 6 Posts
Originally Posted by TillmanSpeed
LOL

Okay, its within 1/8 of a gram balanced. Aluminum dampens better than steel, so if anything it will vibrate less. With more of a circumferance, it's actually more stable at high speed (also known as critical speed). It actually works the opposite, steel will theoretically make more noise.

This is also 6 pounds lighter, but you have to ask yourself how thin steel has to be to be that lights. Again, not knocking on their quality at all and you can't go wrong either way. The justification for this one being 40 dollars more is it's aluminum, 6 pounds lighter, machined to 0, same warranty, and will dampen vibration better than steel (especially with the 3" teflon coated spline stub).

CR
Tillman Speed

Is their something else I don't understand??? My driveshaft will never operated in this rpm range.

http://www.raceshafts.com/critical_speed.htm
Old 2/8/07, 04:33 PM
  #20  
Mach 1 Member
 
FordRacing's Avatar
 
Join Date: November 21, 2004
Location: Buffalo, NY
Posts: 701
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Get the denny's save the money , you WILL NOT notice any difference in the two shafts.
If your undecided I recommend you call both vendors and have all your questions answered.

BTW: get the warrenty thing in writting... Cause you will not find a better drivshaft warrenty with denny's nitrous ready shafts. Period!


Quick Reply: Which driveshaft????



All times are GMT -6. The time now is 02:29 AM.