View Poll Results: Which driveshaft?
Coast Driveline
14
48.28%
Denny's
15
51.72%
Voters: 29. You may not vote on this poll
Which driveshaft????
#1
Which driveshaft????
Which driveshaft?? Coast Driveline's 4" Aluminum or Denny's 3" Steel? I was looking at the deal that Tillman had on the Coast, but the Denny's shaft looks like a nice unit as well. I am not lowered and do not plan on lowering, so there should be no clearance issues with either unit. I will probably stay N/A, so strength will not be an issue with either unit. I'm just looking for a top quality, lightweight drive shaft for a good price. Performance and quality is my #1 concern.
#2
Which driveshaft?? Coast Driveline's 4" Aluminum or Denny's 3" Steel? I was looking at the deal that Tillman had on the Coast, but the Denny's shaft looks like a nice unit as well. I am not lowered and do not plan on lowering, so there should be no clearance issues with either unit. I will probably stay N/A, so strength will not be an issue with either unit. I'm just looking for a top quality, lightweight drive shaft for a good price. Performance and quality is my #1 concern.
I'd just save a few bucks and go with the Denny's.
#3
I'm wondering the same thing. For n/a, I am debating the extra ~6 lbs Denny's steel 3" shaft weighs. However the few extra pounds is on a smaller diameter shaft, so the physics of reducing roataing mass may be better on the 3" diameter. Any physicists around here???
Going N/A, I'm gonna need all the help I can get to up RWHP.
Going N/A, I'm gonna need all the help I can get to up RWHP.
#4
Former Vendor
Join Date: January 11, 2007
Location: Aston, PA
Posts: 2,594
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Of course I am going to be biased, but the 4" shaft is said to be more stable at high speed. I do not have tests confirming that, no am I saying that Denny doesn't have a quality product.
Also, aluminum has better dampening characteristics. But nobody has claimed that the steel has made noise, either.
You can't go wrong either way!
CR
Tillman Speed
Also, aluminum has better dampening characteristics. But nobody has claimed that the steel has made noise, either.
You can't go wrong either way!
CR
Tillman Speed
#5
Of course I am going to be biased, but the 4" shaft is said to be more stable at high speed. I do not have tests confirming that, no am I saying that Denny doesn't have a quality product.
Also, aluminum has better dampening characteristics. But nobody has claimed that the steel has made noise, either.
You can't go wrong either way!
CR
Tillman Speed
Also, aluminum has better dampening characteristics. But nobody has claimed that the steel has made noise, either.
You can't go wrong either way!
CR
Tillman Speed
#9
Former Vendor
Join Date: January 11, 2007
Location: Aston, PA
Posts: 2,594
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Here are a few references from people who are using, AND HAVE BEEN, using the Coast Driveline shaft.
Allen Crocket, the founder of Barber SVT Racing school and the Barber Driving Experience uses this on their S197 and won 2 out of 3 races with it! Here is their website. You can call and talk to him if you'd like.
http://www.barberdrivingexperience.com/
Another good reference is Extreme Automotive of California. They just installed this on SubZero05 (Chris from B&M)'s car. They can tell you about the ease of installation and fitment for the magazine project car they installed it in yesterday. Here is their website, give them a shout!
http://www.teamextreme.net
As far as horsepower numbers, no idea but both of the sources above claimed that it FELT like a 30 horsepower difference. These guys do race cars for a living. I would like to get a dyno graph to get some actual PROVEN numbers!
You have to remember that this mod wont increase horsepower significantly, it just allow you to get up to RPM quicker, and reduces rotating mass. This allows for less drivetrain power loss to the wheels. That is where you "pick up" your power.
Allen Crocket, the founder of Barber SVT Racing school and the Barber Driving Experience uses this on their S197 and won 2 out of 3 races with it! Here is their website. You can call and talk to him if you'd like.
http://www.barberdrivingexperience.com/
Another good reference is Extreme Automotive of California. They just installed this on SubZero05 (Chris from B&M)'s car. They can tell you about the ease of installation and fitment for the magazine project car they installed it in yesterday. Here is their website, give them a shout!
http://www.teamextreme.net
As far as horsepower numbers, no idea but both of the sources above claimed that it FELT like a 30 horsepower difference. These guys do race cars for a living. I would like to get a dyno graph to get some actual PROVEN numbers!
You have to remember that this mod wont increase horsepower significantly, it just allow you to get up to RPM quicker, and reduces rotating mass. This allows for less drivetrain power loss to the wheels. That is where you "pick up" your power.
#10
Former Vendor
Join Date: January 11, 2007
Location: Aston, PA
Posts: 2,594
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The stock piece is around 45 pounds, and is a 2.76 or 2.78" diameter I believe.
The aluminum is 4" diameter for high speed stability and weighs 17lbs. It uses all Dana-Spicer hardware as well.
CR
Tillman Speed
The aluminum is 4" diameter for high speed stability and weighs 17lbs. It uses all Dana-Spicer hardware as well.
CR
Tillman Speed
#11
Former Vendor
Join Date: January 11, 2007
Location: Aston, PA
Posts: 2,594
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
No matter which driveshaft you purchase, here is a tip:
Clean the dirt and grime off of the bolts for the adaptor. If you don't the stuff that gets gunked up on them actually wont allow the bolt to fit. Clean them off, and replace with some sort of a thread sealer if you feel it's neccesary. It can't hurt. Make sure to tighten the bolts in your standard criss-cross pattern, and use proper torque specs.
The Coast driveline flange is machined to 0 so these puppies are a tight fit!
CR
Tillman Speed
Clean the dirt and grime off of the bolts for the adaptor. If you don't the stuff that gets gunked up on them actually wont allow the bolt to fit. Clean them off, and replace with some sort of a thread sealer if you feel it's neccesary. It can't hurt. Make sure to tighten the bolts in your standard criss-cross pattern, and use proper torque specs.
The Coast driveline flange is machined to 0 so these puppies are a tight fit!
CR
Tillman Speed
#12
Here are a few references from people who are using, AND HAVE BEEN, using the Coast Driveline shaft.
Allen Crocket, the founder of Barber SVT Racing school and the Barber Driving Experience uses this on their S197 and won 2 out of 3 races with it! Here is their website. You can call and talk to him if you'd like.
http://www.barberdrivingexperience.com/
Another good reference is Extreme Automotive of California. They just installed this on SubZero05 (Chris from B&M)'s car. They can tell you about the ease of installation and fitment for the magazine project car they installed it in yesterday. Here is their website, give them a shout!
http://www.teamextreme.net
As far as horsepower numbers, no idea but both of the sources above claimed that it FELT like a 30 horsepower difference. These guys do race cars for a living. I would like to get a dyno graph to get some actual PROVEN numbers!
You have to remember that this mod wont increase horsepower significantly, it just allow you to get up to RPM quicker, and reduces rotating mass. This allows for less drivetrain power loss to the wheels. That is where you "pick up" your power.
Allen Crocket, the founder of Barber SVT Racing school and the Barber Driving Experience uses this on their S197 and won 2 out of 3 races with it! Here is their website. You can call and talk to him if you'd like.
http://www.barberdrivingexperience.com/
Another good reference is Extreme Automotive of California. They just installed this on SubZero05 (Chris from B&M)'s car. They can tell you about the ease of installation and fitment for the magazine project car they installed it in yesterday. Here is their website, give them a shout!
http://www.teamextreme.net
As far as horsepower numbers, no idea but both of the sources above claimed that it FELT like a 30 horsepower difference. These guys do race cars for a living. I would like to get a dyno graph to get some actual PROVEN numbers!
You have to remember that this mod wont increase horsepower significantly, it just allow you to get up to RPM quicker, and reduces rotating mass. This allows for less drivetrain power loss to the wheels. That is where you "pick up" your power.
Extreme's website is being re-worked and down for now. If you want to reach them call 818 883 8836
#15
Legacy TMS Member
Join Date: January 9, 2005
Location: New Carlisle, Ohio (20 miles north of Dayton)
Posts: 6,982
Likes: 0
Received 6 Likes
on
6 Posts
I have a really stupid question I guess. If one of these guys makes a 3 inch aluminum driveshaft....it seems it should handle at least 400 hp for us guys that are not going to go with nitrous or supercharge or turbo. I don't need a driveshaft that will handle 750 hp. How about some of you other guys??????????
Scott
Scott
#16
Former Vendor
Join Date: January 11, 2007
Location: Aston, PA
Posts: 2,594
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Scott,
Not a stupid question. The 3" is actually a steel driveshaft, but very light. Neither of these is about buying a 750hp driveshaft, yet they would be able to handle it. I know that at high speeds, the 4" driveshaft is more stable, and still 6 lbs. less rotating mass. Like I said above, though. You can't go wrong with either. You'll benefit with both.
CR
Tillman Speed
Not a stupid question. The 3" is actually a steel driveshaft, but very light. Neither of these is about buying a 750hp driveshaft, yet they would be able to handle it. I know that at high speeds, the 4" driveshaft is more stable, and still 6 lbs. less rotating mass. Like I said above, though. You can't go wrong with either. You'll benefit with both.
CR
Tillman Speed
#17
Legacy TMS Member
Join Date: January 9, 2005
Location: New Carlisle, Ohio (20 miles north of Dayton)
Posts: 6,982
Likes: 0
Received 6 Likes
on
6 Posts
Scott,
Not a stupid question. The 3" is actually a steel driveshaft, but very light. Neither of these is about buying a 750hp driveshaft, yet they would be able to handle it. I know that at high speeds, the 4" driveshaft is more stable, and still 6 lbs. less rotating mass. Like I said above, though. You can't go wrong with either. You'll benefit with both.
CR
Tillman Speed
Not a stupid question. The 3" is actually a steel driveshaft, but very light. Neither of these is about buying a 750hp driveshaft, yet they would be able to handle it. I know that at high speeds, the 4" driveshaft is more stable, and still 6 lbs. less rotating mass. Like I said above, though. You can't go wrong with either. You'll benefit with both.
CR
Tillman Speed
Hey CR,
You may have explained in another thread why a 4" driveshaft is more stable than a 3" driveshaft but I would like to ask you to tell us WHY again. Because a 4" dia. shaft that is out of balance 1/8 of a gram will vibrate more than a 3" dia. shaft with the same balance. So I guess I don't understand. Help me. Ooooh by the way... I normally keep it under a 120 mph on my way to work everyday.
Scott
#18
Former Vendor
Join Date: January 11, 2007
Location: Aston, PA
Posts: 2,594
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hey CR,
You may have explained in another thread why a 4" driveshaft is more stable than a 3" driveshaft but I would like to ask you to tell us WHY again. Because a 4" dia. shaft that is out of balance 1/8 of a gram will vibrate more than a 3" dia. shaft with the same balance. So I guess I don't understand. Help me. Ooooh by the way... I normally keep it under a 120 mph on my way to work everyday.
Scott
You may have explained in another thread why a 4" driveshaft is more stable than a 3" driveshaft but I would like to ask you to tell us WHY again. Because a 4" dia. shaft that is out of balance 1/8 of a gram will vibrate more than a 3" dia. shaft with the same balance. So I guess I don't understand. Help me. Ooooh by the way... I normally keep it under a 120 mph on my way to work everyday.
Scott
Okay, its within 1/8 of a gram balanced. Aluminum dampens better than steel, so if anything it will vibrate less. With more of a circumferance, it's actually more stable at high speed (also known as critical speed). It actually works the opposite, steel will theoretically make more noise.
This is also 6 pounds lighter, but you have to ask yourself how thin steel has to be to be that lights. Again, not knocking on their quality at all and you can't go wrong either way. The justification for this one being 40 dollars more is it's aluminum, 6 pounds lighter, machined to 0, same warranty, and will dampen vibration better than steel (especially with the 3" teflon coated spline stub).
CR
Tillman Speed
#19
Legacy TMS Member
Join Date: January 9, 2005
Location: New Carlisle, Ohio (20 miles north of Dayton)
Posts: 6,982
Likes: 0
Received 6 Likes
on
6 Posts
LOL
Okay, its within 1/8 of a gram balanced. Aluminum dampens better than steel, so if anything it will vibrate less. With more of a circumferance, it's actually more stable at high speed (also known as critical speed). It actually works the opposite, steel will theoretically make more noise.
This is also 6 pounds lighter, but you have to ask yourself how thin steel has to be to be that lights. Again, not knocking on their quality at all and you can't go wrong either way. The justification for this one being 40 dollars more is it's aluminum, 6 pounds lighter, machined to 0, same warranty, and will dampen vibration better than steel (especially with the 3" teflon coated spline stub).
CR
Tillman Speed
Okay, its within 1/8 of a gram balanced. Aluminum dampens better than steel, so if anything it will vibrate less. With more of a circumferance, it's actually more stable at high speed (also known as critical speed). It actually works the opposite, steel will theoretically make more noise.
This is also 6 pounds lighter, but you have to ask yourself how thin steel has to be to be that lights. Again, not knocking on their quality at all and you can't go wrong either way. The justification for this one being 40 dollars more is it's aluminum, 6 pounds lighter, machined to 0, same warranty, and will dampen vibration better than steel (especially with the 3" teflon coated spline stub).
CR
Tillman Speed
Is their something else I don't understand??? My driveshaft will never operated in this rpm range.
http://www.raceshafts.com/critical_speed.htm
#20
Mach 1 Member
Join Date: November 21, 2004
Location: Buffalo, NY
Posts: 701
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Get the denny's save the money , you WILL NOT notice any difference in the two shafts.
If your undecided I recommend you call both vendors and have all your questions answered.
BTW: get the warrenty thing in writting... Cause you will not find a better drivshaft warrenty with denny's nitrous ready shafts. Period!
If your undecided I recommend you call both vendors and have all your questions answered.
BTW: get the warrenty thing in writting... Cause you will not find a better drivshaft warrenty with denny's nitrous ready shafts. Period!