I just drove the first 20 miles on my 410 gears and the only thing I can report on so far is the little whine coming from the rear end, supposedly from using the Amsoil Synthetic Gear Lube. Mucho protection but at the expense of some whine, oh well.

Like I've already posted so much this past week, I am visiting Sacramento Raceway tonight and Im going to be putting on about another 150 miles at the least before I make it up there tonight.
I've read through break in procedures and I've seen minimum mile values ranging from 300-500 with regular dino oils. I wont hammer it till I get to the track to get as much "break in" as possible but I was wondering how you folks have done your break ins with a new numerically higher gear set.

How many miles did you put into the break in and how did you drive it? Did you take it easy all through the mileage or did you burn through your tires before you got out of the installer's parking lot?

Also, if anybody cares to make bets on my improvement tonight at the track please post them now. I will be in complete N/A drag trim, no nitrous, front sway bar is removed, the passenger seat is going back out along with the spare tire (brought as a just in case) and the Shaker 1000 assembly in the trunk.

The only additions from my 13.4 @ 104 slip are the BMR LCA Relocation Brackets and FRPP 4.10:1 Gear Set.

Im a little upset that I couldnt pickup my Drag Radials today 'cause out of the shops that I called only 1 of them had a single tire. Who the heck is gona buy just 1 anyways?

Well, thats it for now but your replies are appreciated before I leave in about 2 hours.

I'll report back tomorrow morning when I get back.

-Dan

 

4.10 gears will give you about .4 off you time, maybe a little less without drag radials. Your current car configuration with drag radials will get you down to 12.7s

 

13.1@105 is my guess on street tires. If you had slicks, you could take advantage of the 4.10 gear. It really comes down to your 60' times.

 

Hey Dan

Is the difference in gears 4.10 vs stock as big of a difference as everyone says they are. Any seat of the pants difference?

Just curious, trying to put together a christmas list.

BTW, good luck at the track tonight. I'm not too track savy so I'll say that you're faster than last time.

 

I know this isnt from an '05, but with every set of gears I've had, never did a "break in". I beat on em from mile 1 and havent had problems with any of them so far nor has the guy who did my installs. These were all in the ford 8.8" rear end.

Also, at the track, I think you'll blow the tires off in the 60' on your first run. Get used to em first before you try to seriously push it. You'll be able to know 2-3 tenths off your time I believe.

 

Scott; Is 2 to 3 tenths off a common occurance in the 05's? If I can knock .2-.3 off my quarter time and trap a bit quicker, I would be easily in the 12s and low 12s on slicks.

 

I'm not sure about '05's to be honest with you. I am just basing it off of my experience in various cars when a gear change has been done.

 

Depending on the track set up I don't think you'll see any improvement to an actual worse time due to the wheel spin off the line.

 

I hate to agree, but I'm going to have to. I'm still trying to learn how to launch mine with the 4.10's. It's a bit tricky. To many revs and it's a tire barbeque. Not enough and it's the dreaded bog. With the BMR set-up, wheel hop may not be a problem.

As far as break-in on the gears? Mine when straight off the lift and onto the dyno for a bunch of pulls. So, uh, none for me.

 

I had my 4.10's installed last weekend. My installer told me there was no required break in period. Who am I to argue?

Seat of the pants difference?? ABSOLUTELY!!

 

I'll 3rd that statement, I was at the track last Friday and man was I disappointed! I spun, spun again, and spun some more. My my first run with the 4.10s was 14 seconds! I couldn't get the hang of it and 2 cars blew up so I left for the night.

I also beat on mine as soon as I left the shop.

 

Best Reaction Time tonight @ .097 cause I actually cared to do that this time. In other words... I tried for once.

Best ET and MPH to date with a 13.246 @ 105.445 in N/A trim. 1/8th was a 8.539 @ 83.400. On that run I cut a 2 second flat 60 foot as I kinda blew off the tires.

Took about 6 runs and my worst time was even better than my previous best and was the first run of the night. 13.411 @ 104.242.

Traction is a very large issue now but that 1.990 60 foot was also my first run of the evening. 2 runs I completely tossed traction off the track but the car remained straight. I spun all the way through 1st on one run and did some "feathering" after that so I wouldnt lose as much off the start.

The powa of the 4.10 gears dropped my 1/4 by a bit more than 2/10th (.216 to be exact). Not bad considering this is on the stock far-from-sticky tires.

This car still needs a tune by the way so I can improve upon the time between shifts. Some extra power is still in the motor too. I cant wait till I get back on the dyno and get some new tires.

Edit: Apparently, you cant recalibrate your speedometer when you change gears by yourself, you must see a tuner. My speed and mileage is gona be off for a while now.


-Dan

 

Well the only way to fix it is to buy a tuner. I suggest picking up an SCT (or diablo) tuner to change your gear ratio. That's really the only way you can fix it.

A tuner is good for another 4 tenths if you run it on a 93 tune. I suggest buying it from a dealer here on the boards who will make a custom tune for you based on your mods.

 

I already have a Diablo GT, its been in use since I got my JLT Intake. Just uping the Axle Ratio doesnt change a thing.

It is really useful @ the track btw, I was Datalogging every run I made. I would leave the hood open till I got to the prestage, just before the burn out box, to let everything cool to just above ambient. The moment the hood is dropped those temperates start to rise quickly.

Another note...

My burn outs suck now, Im almost wheelhopping with the crappy stockers. Wondering if this had anything to do with the brakes...

-Dan

 

What update are you using in your predator (r26)? You should be able to change your gear ratio yourself. You might try updating your predator. My gear ratio function didn't work either till I updated it.

 

Hey Cleveland! Very respectable work your doing in regards to the 4.10's in a GT using a N/A setup! Its really valuable information, that you didnt have to do, but chose to.. Great job!

Looking at your setup, I have noticed a big problem, that you seem to have overlooked...


eibach sportline lowering springs


This must be dealt with ASAP, to improve your overall time.. These springs are not the best for what your trying to accomplish.. Put it this way, your better off buying some stock GT springs off of EBAY for $20 bucks, and removing 1 coil from the bottom, to achieve the desired ride height..

Let me further consider your situation..


In general, you should leave the GT at its stock ride height... The lower the car is, the harder it is to transfer weight from the front to the back on launch.. Your car actually would be quicker setting at the stock level, with the stock springs..

On launch, you would have enough height to allow some weight to be transfered to the rear on launch, with a softer spring which would accept this transfer, and allow it to happen.. This in turn allows for a higher off the line rev limit, which is controlled because of more weight in the rear..

I'll contemplate further..

Lets put the rules of launch out in relation to gearing..

Lets say with your 3.55's, a good amount of squat value would have been 1".. So this means you need 1" of squat to allow enough weight to be transfered to the rear to achieve the optimum RPM launch speed, in conjunction with enough weight to control wheel spin with your tires..

You have now installed a 4.10 ring gear.. A smaller gear, resulting in more torque to the rear at the same rpm speed.. Under this circumstance, your squat value must be raised to 2"..

In your current situation, based on a lower car, and a stiffer spring, you have increased the torque value to the rear, but kept constant the squat value.. Thus your caught in a dicey situation.. This being you have more power to decrease your 60ft time, but it can not be applied because the rear springs are too stiff, and the ride height is too low..

In short, focus all your attention, on 1 raising the car closer to its stock ride height, which will in turn allow for the tranfer of more weight.. 2, a softer rear spring which will compress easier on launch to accept the weight transfer.. 3, the height will be high enough to achieve you optimum squat value of now 2" inches, which will offset for traction, because of the raised torque value at the same engine RPM speed..

You need some "Squat" Cleveland.. Your now frozen in time, because no matter what you do, your stuck in limbo because you can not utilize anymore power which is transmitted through the rear wheels, be it through gearing, or engine power.. Basically, any improvements you can see now, will be improvements from a power stand point once the car is rolling, and not from time save at the start, or from your launch..

 

I know what you are saying and I have been thinking about throwing the old stockers back on just for when I go to the launch pad @ Sacramento. I already pull so much stuff off, I could switch out some parts too.

-Dan

 

But changing to drag radials would accomplish the same thing...

Also, if you do put stock springs back on, you would only need to change out the rears, correct?