Do these prices sound fair?
#1
This is a quote from a local tuner. I may install the CAI myself, although I have never installed anyting on a car in my life. I heard its pretty easy. But, who knows.
1-Hour of labor for installing the C&L unit - $75
Xcalibrator 2 - $379
Custom tuning file - $30
Air/fuel datalogging - $25
Dyno time - $150/hr (min 1 hour)
for some reason I feel uncomfortable using a custom tune off the internet on my baby with only 1500 miles on it. I would hate to do damage. Am I being a worry wart? Should I be afraid of a Brenspeed or bamachip tune? I would not mind spending a little more to be sure about the tune.
My only mod right now is the flowmaster exaust. I will add the CAI and that will most likely be it.
thanks
Brett
1-Hour of labor for installing the C&L unit - $75
Xcalibrator 2 - $379
Custom tuning file - $30
Air/fuel datalogging - $25
Dyno time - $150/hr (min 1 hour)
for some reason I feel uncomfortable using a custom tune off the internet on my baby with only 1500 miles on it. I would hate to do damage. Am I being a worry wart? Should I be afraid of a Brenspeed or bamachip tune? I would not mind spending a little more to be sure about the tune.
My only mod right now is the flowmaster exaust. I will add the CAI and that will most likely be it.
thanks
Brett
#2
I got my Xcalibrator2, 2 custom tunes (87/93), and 2 pulls for $500. Also if I bring my car back with more parts they will tune it for free. So that sounds pretty good. I'd go for it.
#3
No, to me that is absolutely rediculous. You should not have to pay for install of the C&L ($75?!), or the custom tuning file. I was offered by Doug of Bama Chips, a better price on the XCal 2, he would install it for free, and he would custom tune my car at the dyno - at which only cost around $85 an hour (inludes Air/fuel data logging). Doug, please correct me if I have quoted any of the prices wrong.
#5
It takes a moron 30 minutes to install the C+L CAI... I would expect a mechanic to take less time... it is ONE BOLT and a clamp... not very hard at all... it took me longer to read the directions... so tell them to stick it as far as installation goes... and maybe shop around...
#7
Originally posted by joesmustang@August 6, 2005, 11:49 AM
BTW, the tunes by Doug of Bamatuning are awesome!! I am extremely happy with the 97 and 93 octane tunes he provided me.
BTW, the tunes by Doug of Bamatuning are awesome!! I am extremely happy with the 97 and 93 octane tunes he provided me.
#9
I suggest installing the optional mounting bracket if you do the installation yourself or require the installer to do so. This makes the whole installation more rigid. The following information is from one of my previous posts concerning the mounting bracket:
The bracket definitely makes the whole installation more secure. Couple
additional items worth mentioning. I took the grommet/bolt assembly out of the bracket mounting location in the valve cover as per the instructions. However, I then cut the bolt head off, removed the bolt and put the grommet back in the valve cover. I then purchased a slightly longer bolt & flat washer than the factory grommet assembly was equipped with and firmly mounted the bracket to the valve cover. This procedure makes the mounting bracket more secure because you can tighten the mounting bolt down without breaking the ear off of the valve cover and prevents future valve cover leaks. Additional cost was less than 25 cents and makes the entire installation more secure. Also found the original tube from the valve cover to the C&L inlet pipe was too short. I replaced the plastic tube with a slightly longer piece of 3/8" vacuum hose and put hose clamps on each end. I was concerned the original plastic tube would slip off of the nipple and allow the engine to ingest dirt. Additional cost $2.00.
The bracket definitely makes the whole installation more secure. Couple
additional items worth mentioning. I took the grommet/bolt assembly out of the bracket mounting location in the valve cover as per the instructions. However, I then cut the bolt head off, removed the bolt and put the grommet back in the valve cover. I then purchased a slightly longer bolt & flat washer than the factory grommet assembly was equipped with and firmly mounted the bracket to the valve cover. This procedure makes the mounting bracket more secure because you can tighten the mounting bolt down without breaking the ear off of the valve cover and prevents future valve cover leaks. Additional cost was less than 25 cents and makes the entire installation more secure. Also found the original tube from the valve cover to the C&L inlet pipe was too short. I replaced the plastic tube with a slightly longer piece of 3/8" vacuum hose and put hose clamps on each end. I was concerned the original plastic tube would slip off of the nipple and allow the engine to ingest dirt. Additional cost $2.00.
#10
Originally posted by tmcolegr@August 7, 2005, 5:13 AM
I suggest installing the optional mounting bracket if you do the installation yourself or require the installer to do so. This makes the whole installation more rigid. The following information is from one of my previous posts concerning the mounting bracket:
The bracket definitely makes the whole installation more secure. Couple
additional items worth mentioning. I took the grommet/bolt assembly out of the bracket mounting location in the valve cover as per the instructions. However, I then cut the bolt head off, removed the bolt and put the grommet back in the valve cover. I then purchased a slightly longer bolt & flat washer than the factory grommet assembly was equipped with and firmly mounted the bracket to the valve cover. This procedure makes the mounting bracket more secure because you can tighten the mounting bolt down without breaking the ear off of the valve cover and prevents future valve cover leaks. Additional cost was less than 25 cents and makes the entire installation more secure. Also found the original tube from the valve cover to the C&L inlet pipe was too short. I replaced the plastic tube with a slightly longer piece of 3/8" vacuum hose and put hose clamps on each end. I was concerned the original plastic tube would slip off of the nipple and allow the engine to ingest dirt. Additional cost $2.00.
I suggest installing the optional mounting bracket if you do the installation yourself or require the installer to do so. This makes the whole installation more rigid. The following information is from one of my previous posts concerning the mounting bracket:
The bracket definitely makes the whole installation more secure. Couple
additional items worth mentioning. I took the grommet/bolt assembly out of the bracket mounting location in the valve cover as per the instructions. However, I then cut the bolt head off, removed the bolt and put the grommet back in the valve cover. I then purchased a slightly longer bolt & flat washer than the factory grommet assembly was equipped with and firmly mounted the bracket to the valve cover. This procedure makes the mounting bracket more secure because you can tighten the mounting bolt down without breaking the ear off of the valve cover and prevents future valve cover leaks. Additional cost was less than 25 cents and makes the entire installation more secure. Also found the original tube from the valve cover to the C&L inlet pipe was too short. I replaced the plastic tube with a slightly longer piece of 3/8" vacuum hose and put hose clamps on each end. I was concerned the original plastic tube would slip off of the nipple and allow the engine to ingest dirt. Additional cost $2.00.
#11
#12
Originally posted by tmcolegr@August 7, 2005, 8:45 AM
http://forums.bradbarnett.net/index....opic=22383&hl=
http://forums.bradbarnett.net/index....opic=22383&hl=
#13
Prowler, don't be afraid to install the C&L. It really is easy. Just take your time and it will all come together. My son and I did it in less then an hour.
As mentioned before, the valve cover grommet and the optional brackets are a must. I removed the grommet off the original valve cover bolt and re installed it on the bolt they give you with the C&L. To remove the gromet, I put the Valve cover bolt upside down over the jaws on my bech vise. Don't tighten the vise, you just want the bolt head to be loose insde the jaws. Then, bang on the bottom of the bolt with a hammer and the bolt will come flying off. The grommet has small tabs that hold it on the bolt.
One tip I found out about later, the rubber adapters they give you with the C&L are reversible. one side is blue and the other side is red. My car is torch red, so I turned them inside out to match the car a little bit better.
As far as the tune, I bought the C&L and a predator as a kit. Initially, I installed the 87 ictane tune that comes with the predator. It made a huge difference in performance. I went with the 87 octane because my car was only 2 days old and the tank was filled by the dealer with 87 octane.
Later, I downloaded the C&L predator tune for 93 octane off the diablo site. I modified the tune by decreasing the advance by 5 degrees as suggested in the C&L site. Wow, what a difference. I thought the 87 octane predator tune was good, but the C&L tune made a big difference. I can't wait to put enough miles on the car to empty the tank and fill it with 93 octane.
In retrospect, from what i've been reading on these boards, the Xcal2 with a custom tune from Doug might have been a better idea. I may just sell my predator and go to doug for an Xcal2.
As mentioned before, the valve cover grommet and the optional brackets are a must. I removed the grommet off the original valve cover bolt and re installed it on the bolt they give you with the C&L. To remove the gromet, I put the Valve cover bolt upside down over the jaws on my bech vise. Don't tighten the vise, you just want the bolt head to be loose insde the jaws. Then, bang on the bottom of the bolt with a hammer and the bolt will come flying off. The grommet has small tabs that hold it on the bolt.
One tip I found out about later, the rubber adapters they give you with the C&L are reversible. one side is blue and the other side is red. My car is torch red, so I turned them inside out to match the car a little bit better.
As far as the tune, I bought the C&L and a predator as a kit. Initially, I installed the 87 ictane tune that comes with the predator. It made a huge difference in performance. I went with the 87 octane because my car was only 2 days old and the tank was filled by the dealer with 87 octane.
Later, I downloaded the C&L predator tune for 93 octane off the diablo site. I modified the tune by decreasing the advance by 5 degrees as suggested in the C&L site. Wow, what a difference. I thought the 87 octane predator tune was good, but the C&L tune made a big difference. I can't wait to put enough miles on the car to empty the tank and fill it with 93 octane.
In retrospect, from what i've been reading on these boards, the Xcal2 with a custom tune from Doug might have been a better idea. I may just sell my predator and go to doug for an Xcal2.
#14
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Join Date: June 9, 2005
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http://www.alternativeauto.com/prods...tang_tune.html
Anyone know about this "pre-catalytic" device in the stock intake track?
Anyhow, looks like Alternative Auto is selling the Xcalibrator with custom tune for $375 (manual) and $399 (auto).
Anyone know about this "pre-catalytic" device in the stock intake track?
Anyhow, looks like Alternative Auto is selling the Xcalibrator with custom tune for $375 (manual) and $399 (auto).
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