Alright guys, I've got 40K on the 07 GT and I think it's time to tackle the dreaded spark plugs (which are hopefully the source of some 91 octane pinging I can't get rid of).

I've read a lot of the threads here about the debacle, and just purchased a set of Champion 7989 plugs. Reading through the TSB and the various threads, and the fact that this car is my DD, I'm not sure if I can tackle this on my own.

Has anybody had a Ford dealership do this work? If so how much did they charge you?

If I end up doing it myself, here's my current shopping list:
http://www.amazon.com/Kano-Aerokroil...=ADG953YR6NRBF
http://www.amazon.com/OTC-6900-Speci...3438576&sr=8-1
http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-LIS65600...xgy_auto_img_b
http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-77124...xgy_auto_img_c

Any thoughts?

Thanks

 

I changed mine two years ago and it was very stressful but I got them out without a problem. I used carborator cleaner as the solvent since it got through to the threads and it flashes off over time. Take your time and really soak the plugs for along time...at least more than an hour. Do not force anything if possible. And park the car so that it can easily be towed if you have a problem. The Champions work fine by the way.

 

I did my 04 F150 and my 05GT and both were stressfull, but the Mustang was way easier and nothing broke. You should be fine. The F150's are a true PITA and almost guaranty a plug will break.

 

It's less than an hour's worth of work to change the plugs. Most dealers charge about $90-$100 per hour for labor, so that should be the most you pay (plus whatever you paid for your plugs, of course). Now, if one breaks, it's gonna cost you more since Ford and the dealers won't cover that for free unfortunately.

I've pulled my plugs several times over the past few years and am changing them again this weekend. I'm running colder/copper plugs that only last 6 months, but they sure work better than platinum in forced induction setups.

You can easily do it yourself if you follow the TSB and take your time. However, break one and your screwed.

 

Brian , what kind of plugs are you running ?

 

I run FRPP's 3V0 plugs. They have a copper core which conducts 10 times better than platinum and they are one heat range colder. The only drawback to using them is that copper plugs only last about 6 months, while platinum lasts 100K miles. On the plus side, copper is a way better conductor and the colder plug works wonders with forced induction.

 

to the OP....have you done this yet?

Took me 24 hours from start to finish.

Patience is key.

I use the champions and they work great. I had the brisk plugs for a short time but changed them because they were absolute garbage and the engine started pinging.

Champions are where its at for NA applications.

 

Champion plugs + other tools/parts will be here this week. 24 hrs huh? Did you crack the plugs open, spray the penetrant and let them soak over night? How long did it actually take to get each plug out?

 

Are the plugs a problem for all years or just certain year cars? I have 2008.

 

FORD RACING COLD SPARK PLUG SET 16MM THREAD 3V 2005-2008

Part Number: M124053V0

The above is heat 0 but it does not say for how long they last or if they're copper or platinum... can anybody in here enlighten me? Or are these the FRPP 3V0 '5 O Brian' is talking bout?

If yes than what is my best alternative that will last me long but is the best quality ones?

 

I believe 2008 was the transition year. If you'll do a bit of searching on this site, you'll find out what you need to look for to determine if your 2008 had the early (potentially problematic) or later, updated plug design. Unfortunately my 2008 is the earlier design, but with only about 5k miles on mine, I'm not going to start worrying yet.

 

If i'd known about this problem when I bought the car I would've changed the plugs at 1000 miles! The more miles the more carbon buildup and the less chance of getting them out cleanly.

 

I have a 2008 and when I installed my Whipple Supercharger they sent me the one piece plugs, just in case. But I already had the correct plugs from the factory so I got credit on the plugs sent. So the change was made during the 2008 model year.

 

I need some stress in my life so I’ve decided to switch the plugs in my 2007. I know about the Champion and Brisk plugs. Did Ford change to a one piece design in 2008? I keep reading that they fixed the 2-piece design problem in 2008. What plug did Ford use in late 2008?

 

I'm not sure the part # but I've read that you can't use the Ford one-piece plug because the cylinder head design is different. As far as I know, the Champion 7989 are our only one-piece alternative, at least that people have experience with.

 

Yes, that part number (M-12405-3V0) is for the plugs I'm running. They are copper core, so they conduct electricity 10 times better than the crappy platinum plugs. However, just like decades ago, copper plugs are only good for about 6 months. I have no suggestions for platinum plugs, though.

 

2005 to halfway into 2008 had the crappy plug design...

*If you have a 2008 Mustang, you need to determine if you have 2005-2008 "high thread" 16mm spark plugs or 2008-2010 12mm spark plugs. This can be determined by looking at the coil engineering number. If you have a 3L3E number, you have the earlier 16mm spark plugs, if you have an 8L3E coil engineering number, then use the newer 12mm version (M124053V12).

 

I turned the plugs a little...maybe a quarter turn...sprayed penetrant...let it soak for a few hours, turn a little bit more....sprayed......waited....then I started turning them back and forth....

There was a point when they started to make this horrible screaching noise as they were being removed. But I just turned, sprayed, waited again and again until they came out.

I started the process Saturday morning and finished Sunday morning.

It should be noted my car had around 60k miles when I did this.

 

They will SQUEEK like *****. Don't panic. And don't forget the anti -seize on the threads of the new plugs.

 

I know anti-seize seems like a good idea but the plugs breaking and getting stuck is not an issue with the threads at all. The part that gets stuck shouldn't have anti sieZe on it anyways.
It's the carbon buildup around the long extension with the electrode.