Coast Driveline Aluminum Driveshafts - UPDATED
2/6/07, 12:08 PM
#24
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I think everyone that ordered should recieve by the end of the week!
1 or 2 people may be Monday morning, but may also still be Friday delivery.
THESE DRIVESHAFTS ARE STILL AVAILABLE!!!
589.99 SHIPPED!
CR
Tillman Speed
1 or 2 people may be Monday morning, but may also still be Friday delivery.
THESE DRIVESHAFTS ARE STILL AVAILABLE!!!
589.99 SHIPPED!
CR
Tillman Speed
2/6/07, 12:42 PM
#26
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Coast Driveline and a certain shifter company just did a project with their shifter and this driveshaft for a certain mustang magazine. Be 60 days ahead of the game!!!
CR
Tillman Speed
CR
Tillman Speed
2/6/07, 02:11 PM
#27
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Boy, you do have your ear to the pavement. Actually , We start the work on this particular project tomorrow. And yes, we are using a coast driveline along with the new Prototype Mcleod RST clutch.
2/6/07, 02:27 PM
#28
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2/6/07, 02:31 PM
#29
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There's a much cheaper way to go for this mod.
http://www.2005stang.com/viewtopic.php?p=111347#111347
http://www.2005stang.com/viewtopic.php?p=111347#111347
2/6/07, 02:41 PM
#30
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Sure, find a used driveshaft, cut it, re weld it, change the U joints, balance it, and save some weight. Realistically costs 200-225. After finding a junkyard driveshaft.
Or buy a brand new one that bolts-up and is balanced within 1/8 of a gram. All new dana-spicer hardware rather than general automotive brand stuff.
Yes, technically what you said will work, though. You just wont find me putting a junkyard driveshaft on my $25,000+ dollar car.
Or buy a brand new one that bolts-up and is balanced within 1/8 of a gram. All new dana-spicer hardware rather than general automotive brand stuff.
Yes, technically what you said will work, though. You just wont find me putting a junkyard driveshaft on my $25,000+ dollar car.
2/6/07, 06:33 PM
#31
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Sure, find a used driveshaft, cut it, re weld it, change the U joints, balance it, and save some weight. Realistically costs 200-225. After finding a junkyard driveshaft.
Or buy a brand new one that bolts-up and is balanced within 1/8 of a gram. All new dana-spicer hardware rather than general automotive brand stuff.
Yes, technically what you said will work, though. You just wont find me putting a junkyard driveshaft on my $25,000+ dollar car.
Or buy a brand new one that bolts-up and is balanced within 1/8 of a gram. All new dana-spicer hardware rather than general automotive brand stuff.
Yes, technically what you said will work, though. You just wont find me putting a junkyard driveshaft on my $25,000+ dollar car.
2/6/07, 10:43 PM
#33
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i have the powerhouse, and it has a few marks on it from hitting. its the 4" shaft. my car has stock suspension. i think it is because of the roads here, i live in nyc, and have bottomed out a few times. i am going to try LCAs (need them anyways) and banging up the trans tunnel a little. i wouldnt need to adjust the pinion angle on a stock suspension right?
2/6/07, 11:18 PM
#34
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On a stock suspension you shouldnt have any problems with pinion angle. Check and make sure it's set at 2.7 degrees.
There are a few spots on the trans tunnel you could try to take care of for added clearance.
CR
Tillman Speed
There are a few spots on the trans tunnel you could try to take care of for added clearance.
CR
Tillman Speed
2/7/07, 05:42 AM
#35
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i have the powerhouse, and it has a few marks on it from hitting. its the 4" shaft. my car has stock suspension. i think it is because of the roads here, i live in nyc, and have bottomed out a few times. i am going to try LCAs (need them anyways) and banging up the trans tunnel a little. i wouldnt need to adjust the pinion angle on a stock suspension right?
2/7/07, 06:30 AM
#36
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i am never going to lower this car, its hard enough to get it into my garage lol. but doing the UCA and LCA would most likely kill all my axle hop right? I was thinking of getting those new j&m LCAs and maybe the steeda UCA. any good? is the UCA a major pain to install? don't you have to remove the gas tank? u think it is bad to have my pinion angle a little off, and just tap the trans tunnel up a little, i mean it like has barely touched it, just sufrace scratches in a few places.
2/7/07, 09:36 AM
#37
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doing both the UCA and the LCA will kill ALL wheel hop. the lcas help a lot but dont get rid of it all. the UCA gets rid of it all. the steeda is overpriced but hay if you got the bank go for it. BMR and CHE are both great products
2/7/07, 09:44 AM
#38
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We've got 4 left! These are going to be hard to get, as we keep on buying all of Coast Driveline's inventory.
Get them 60 days before the magazine articles!!!
$589.99 SHIPPED TO THE DOOR!
Get them 60 days before the magazine articles!!!
$589.99 SHIPPED TO THE DOOR!
2/7/07, 09:51 AM
#39
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Any word on when you’ll post the pictures of the spots on the drive shaft tunnel that may need to be “massaged” on lowered Mustangs? I'm teetering on the fence regarding this mod, and want to get an idea of what potential clearance issues I may encounter after installing my Eibach springs. How much test driving did you do on the Mustang you installed the shaft on in the pictures? I’m not sure what springs are on the car but it looks like it’s been lowered. Did you drive on rough roads and give it some heavy acceleration and deceleration? Were there any rub marks on the drive shaft after the test drives? I’m usually not an early adopter but I've spent a bazillion bucks on mods for the spring, what’s a few more right…?
2/7/07, 09:53 AM
#40
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Hey CR,
Any word on when you’ll post the pictures of the spots on the drive shaft tunnel that may need to be “massaged” on lowered Mustangs? I'm teetering on the fence regarding this mod, and want to get an idea of what potential clearance issues I may encounter after installing my Eibach springs. How much test driving did you do on the Mustang you installed the shaft on in the pictures? I’m not sure what springs are on the car but it looks like it’s been lowered. Did you drive on rough roads and give it some heavy acceleration and deceleration? Were there any rub marks on the drive shaft after the test drives? I’m usually not an early adopter but I've spent a bazillion bucks on mods for the spring, what’s a few more right…?
Any word on when you’ll post the pictures of the spots on the drive shaft tunnel that may need to be “massaged” on lowered Mustangs? I'm teetering on the fence regarding this mod, and want to get an idea of what potential clearance issues I may encounter after installing my Eibach springs. How much test driving did you do on the Mustang you installed the shaft on in the pictures? I’m not sure what springs are on the car but it looks like it’s been lowered. Did you drive on rough roads and give it some heavy acceleration and deceleration? Were there any rub marks on the drive shaft after the test drives? I’m usually not an early adopter but I've spent a bazillion bucks on mods for the spring, what’s a few more right…?