Just wanted to post pictures of this thing for anyone not following the last thread:

 

How many TMS'ers have signed up for this deal so far?

 

About 8

 

I think everyone that ordered should recieve by the end of the week!

1 or 2 people may be Monday morning, but may also still be Friday delivery.

THESE DRIVESHAFTS ARE STILL AVAILABLE!!!

589.99 SHIPPED!

CR
Tillman Speed

 

Ohhhhh.... I *so* wish I could afford this mod...

 

Coast Driveline and a certain shifter company just did a project with their shifter and this driveshaft for a certain mustang magazine. Be 60 days ahead of the game!!!

CR
Tillman Speed

 

Boy, you do have your ear to the pavement. Actually , We start the work on this particular project tomorrow. And yes, we are using a coast driveline along with the new Prototype Mcleod RST clutch.

 

I gotta stay on top of things!

What prototype?

 

There's a much cheaper way to go for this mod.

http://www.2005stang.com/viewtopic.php?p=111347#111347

 

Sure, find a used driveshaft, cut it, re weld it, change the U joints, balance it, and save some weight. Realistically costs 200-225. After finding a junkyard driveshaft.

Or buy a brand new one that bolts-up and is balanced within 1/8 of a gram. All new dana-spicer hardware rather than general automotive brand stuff.

Yes, technically what you said will work, though. You just wont find me putting a junkyard driveshaft on my $25,000+ dollar car.

 

i agree with you on never using a junkyard driveshaft. why when you could buy the newest version from ford. it will cost more than $165 though. i've done a bunch of those for members here and it's about $475-500 when using new stuff and done correctly( tig welded on a fixture and computer rebalanced).

 

Exactly...

 

i have the powerhouse, and it has a few marks on it from hitting. its the 4" shaft. my car has stock suspension. i think it is because of the roads here, i live in nyc, and have bottomed out a few times. i am going to try LCAs (need them anyways) and banging up the trans tunnel a little. i wouldnt need to adjust the pinion angle on a stock suspension right?

 

On a stock suspension you shouldnt have any problems with pinion angle. Check and make sure it's set at 2.7 degrees.

There are a few spots on the trans tunnel you could try to take care of for added clearance.

CR
Tillman Speed

 

there is no need to bang the trans tunnel with anything. your pinion angle is off which is why its rubbing. that means the angle was most likely off from the factory. get a adjsutable UCA and be done with it. no more rubbing and when you do lower the car or do anything suspension wise your all set to adjsut as needed

 

i am never going to lower this car, its hard enough to get it into my garage lol. but doing the UCA and LCA would most likely kill all my axle hop right? I was thinking of getting those new j&m LCAs and maybe the steeda UCA. any good? is the UCA a major pain to install? don't you have to remove the gas tank? u think it is bad to have my pinion angle a little off, and just tap the trans tunnel up a little, i mean it like has barely touched it, just sufrace scratches in a few places.

 

doing both the UCA and the LCA will kill ALL wheel hop. the lcas help a lot but dont get rid of it all. the UCA gets rid of it all. the steeda is overpriced but hay if you got the bank go for it. BMR and CHE are both great products

 

We've got 4 left! These are going to be hard to get, as we keep on buying all of Coast Driveline's inventory.

Get them 60 days before the magazine articles!!!

$589.99 SHIPPED TO THE DOOR!

 

Hey CR,

Any word on when you’ll post the pictures of the spots on the drive shaft tunnel that may need to be “massaged” on lowered Mustangs? I'm teetering on the fence regarding this mod, and want to get an idea of what potential clearance issues I may encounter after installing my Eibach springs. How much test driving did you do on the Mustang you installed the shaft on in the pictures? I’m not sure what springs are on the car but it looks like it’s been lowered. Did you drive on rough roads and give it some heavy acceleration and deceleration? Were there any rub marks on the drive shaft after the test drives? I’m usually not an early adopter but I've spent a bazillion bucks on mods for the spring, what’s a few more right…?

 

if your worried about clearance issues and your lowered jsut get an adjsutable UCA. BMR or CHE or both great choices