azoufan

Just got back from a road trip to Vegas to watch the Big 12 Championship, just over 650 miles round trip. Had a few stretches where we got up and ran, but overall just slightly higher than the speed limit. A few runs where we blipped the throttle and downshifted to get by some cars on the 2 lane roads, but no hard launches or burnouts or anything.

Got home and pulled into my driveway which has an incline and the car chattered it's way up the driveway like the clutch was grabbing. I did it twice just to make sure. I haven't noticed any issues prior to today at all.

Car now has 96K miles, stock clutch, mods in my signature. I've been to the track a few times, but over 50K miles ago. I'm really tired and have done some initial searching, but would request just some brief help and thoughts.

1. Is this the clutch going bad / showing it's age?
2. Should I replace it with the stock clutch or aftermarket?
3. What parts typically need to be replaced?
4. How much is parts and labor going to run me (big ballpark I know)?

Really appreciate any help here guys. This is the first thing that has gone wrong in any way with the car. I'm tired and bummed out. Boo wear and tear!

ski

If the clutch was chattering in 1st gear, then it may be worn out.
One way to test it is park the car on a level surface with the engine running, put the tranny in 4th, and release the clutch pedal with your other foot on the brake pedal. If the engine stalls the clutch is probably ok. If the engine continues running the clutch needs replacement.
Your call on which type to go with.
Suggest replacing everything @ 96K miles- pressure plate assy., clutch disk, slave cylinder/throwout bearing, and flywheel/pilot bearing. You may also want to replace the master cylinder, and clutch pedal return spring.
Don't have a ballpark figure to replace it, but can say it's less expensive to have a shop(experienced) do it vs. a dealer.

Glenn

https://themustangsource.com/f669/cl...ations-489018/
here's a thread you may have missed

Dread53

I just installed a Mach 500 this summer and it's a beautiful thing, even with an estimated 550 RWHP (no dyno yet). I live in the mountains, so smooth engagement was paramount. It was close to stock feel right out of the box, with the exception of some very mild break-in chatter that went away pretty quick.

Now, if you want to go 'budget', I have my complete stock setup sitting in the garage that has 35K miles on it. I took the stock clutch out of my Ranger at 230K miles (80K of that with a turbo 2.3) and it still had 60% wear remaining, so I'm pretty easy on clutches. I'm only home for a couple of days at the beginning of next week, so let me know soon if this interests you.

azoufan

I tried the 4th gear test and while I was able to let the clutch pedal almost all the way out, it did stall and die. I got on it a little bit today driving around town and to work and back. Pretty sure I don't feel the clutch slipping, and it's pretty strong taking off from a dead stop. From 2500-4000 RPM is a little flat, but maybe that's just in my head. I drove it up my driveway tonight and all was fine, no chatter at all.

Appreciate the offer on the clutch, but if it's time for this one, I'll replace it with an aftermarket one of some type. This car is never getting sold, so I might as well go all out when the parts need to be replaced.

Blacksmoke

Replace the clutch, flywheel, and slave cylinder.

If you don't want to stay stock Exedy and Mcleod both make great clutches.
If you buy Mcleod go with the twin disk. I don't know much about the other ones. Their twin disks are great but expensive.

Exedy also makes AWESOME clutches.
They are also less expensive than the Mcleod's and they actually come
with a slave cylinder in the kit to save you 150 bucks.

If you are going to stay N/A and not build your mustang to big HP numbers I'd look at the
Exedy Mach 400 clutch.

Rated at 425RWHP but many people are running
up to around 475-500RWHP with them.
They feel like stock clutches.
VERY comfortable. COMPLETELY streetable.
I have the Mach 400 and I LOVE IT.

Whatever you do stay AWAY from SPEC clutches
in these cars. If you don't you will come back here crying and telling me you wish you had listened.

Cavero

There's a chance your clutch is just glazed. Mine was back in February. Everytime I would take off in first gear it would chatter a little bit but as soon as it was fully engaged it would stop. Shifts to 2nd and higher were too fast to get the symptoms. After a couple weeks, the glazing wore down and it's been normal ever since.

mikeelia

I agree with the comment that it could just be glazed a little. I have 137k on my stock clutch, with a tune and other stuff.

I know it's just a matter of time before I replace, but no sense throwing money away on something you don't need.

Highway driving is easy on the clutch; it's the riding it that kills you... BTW, I'm in SoCal, and get stuck in freeway traffic a lot.

Mike E

houtex

This also happened to me. It freaked me out. Tried the 20MPH, 4th gear, stomp on it test and it held no issue.

Then it 'fixed' itself after a couple of weeks and it's been fine ever since. Oh, 61K here on it, guess I oughtta say that. Those symptoms were... uh... 57Kish?

I dunno how it became glazed though. I haven't driven it differently...

Cavero

happened to me at 45k or so. Yeah it was the damnedest thing. I didn't drive mine much differently either, it just happened. My guess is that since we had some bad snowstorms last year, it was from me feathering the clutch so much to prevent wheelspin.

azoufan, any updates on this? It's been a couple weeks. If you've been driving it regularly you might be seeing improvement if it's only glazed

azoufan

Yeah, sorry everyone, meant to hop back on here. All seems well, consistent with the glazing diagnosis thrown around. It's been a few weeks and I've seen absolutely no issues with the clutch at all, almost like it's brand new. 98K miles and still going strong!