GT Performance Mods 2005+ Mustang GT Performance and Technical Information

CHE Panhard bar install

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Old 1/3/07, 06:03 AM
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CHE Panhard bar install

After lowering the rear 1" with the Roush rear springs, the rear axle was kicked out 3/16" to the drivers side. It was made really noticeable to me since the big 295 tires come right up to the edge fo the fender, and I could notice it just glancing at the car walking up to it from the front or the back. So to fix the crab, I got the CHE double adjustable panhard bar.

This was probably one of the easiest mods I've ever done. If you can take out two bolts, you can do this mod.

A couple of things I learned along the way:
You need to have the right size open ended wrench or a skinny crescent wrench, because the locknut on the passenger's side is up inside the panhard brace, and kind of hard to get too once the bar is installed, and the nut is pretty big, bigger than the 22mm or 1" open ended wrenches that I had on hand. So, I wont' be able to tighten up the lock nut once I get it on and adjusted.
Easy fix, I'll just set the panhard bar 3/16" shorter than stock and slap it in right? Well, the panhard bar comes set exactly stock length, and every turn of the bar while adjusting is 1/8", so a 1.5 turns on the bar and it's set to the perfect length, piece of cake.
Now of course the bar is too short and the holes don't line up, so I used a tie down rachet and put the straps between the brace on the axle and the brace on the car, and just a couple of clicks and I shift the axle to the passenger side and holes lined up perfectly.
I'm sure there are many ways you could skin this cat, but it worked pretty well for me. Of course, it always helps to have the right tools and the whole point of having a double adjustable bar is you can adjust it while on the car. Lesson learned: buy more tools, bigger wrenches/crescent wrench.
Also, instead of the red grease that comes with the kit, I used Energy Suspension Prelube 5. Good stuff, should prevent any noises. Funny though, the stock bar didn't have any type of grease, and never heard a squeak out of it either.

But, the bar is on, and the rear is perfectly centered. Took it for a drive and all is well.

It's a good looking piece too, might have to get the brace bar to match, and goes with the LPW cover. Heres a pic of most of the tools I needed and a pic of it on the car.

Last edited by Hatchman; 3/7/08 at 05:09 AM.
Old 1/3/07, 09:15 AM
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Hey...thanks for the writeup. Good info, I was wondering about this mod
Old 1/3/07, 10:50 AM
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Yep, I guess I should plan on an adjustable bar if I decide to lower...... thanks.
Old 1/3/07, 11:23 AM
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I noticed that was an aluminum bar rather than steel. Is there a big weight difference?
Old 1/3/07, 12:22 PM
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Great write up Brad, but uh...psst - shoulda went with BMR Extremely easy to adjust while on the car.
Old 1/3/07, 12:37 PM
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I adjusted my GMS ph bar while it was on the car and made the mistake of putting locktite (blue) on before it was totally adjusted the way i wanted it....

talk about a btch trying to turn those nuts while that stuff was drying!!!

took me a lot of time to loosen them enough to rotate the bar more but I got it done.

lesson learned, NO locktite before its done and then go back and put that stuff on and only a little bit.
Old 1/3/07, 12:56 PM
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Originally Posted by tom281
Yep, I guess I should plan on an adjustable bar if I decide to lower...... thanks.
You bet. I didn't expect to need it with only a 1" drop, but I guess so.

Originally Posted by neil07gt
I noticed that was an aluminum bar rather than steel. Is there a big weight difference?
Yes, Polished 6061 Tubular Aluminum. I didn't weigh them, but I'd say the CHE is weighs half as much, and looks better.

Originally Posted by MTAS
Great write up Brad, but uh...psst - shoulda went with BMR Extremely easy to adjust while on the car.
Thanks, but I've decided I'm getting all CHE pieces. Figure I'll try and get a few parts on the car to match. Plus, I had a bad experience with BMR LCA's banging around and making a lot of noise. And the way the BMR adjustment is off to the side 25% from the end just looks weird to me. But you're right, it is much easier to get to since there is no bracket to get in the way there. I figured I'll only have to adjust it once, so it's set now.
Old 1/3/07, 03:57 PM
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Thumbs up

Originally Posted by Hatchman
Thanks, but I've decided I'm getting all CHE pieces. Figure I'll try and get a few parts on the car to match. Plus, I had a bad experience with BMR LCA's banging around and making a lot of noise. And the way the BMR adjustment is off to the side 25% from the end just looks weird to me. But you're right, it is much easier to get to since there is no bracket to get in the way there. I figured I'll only have to adjust it once, so it's set now.
I hear ya, and that you're happy with the end result is all that matters And BTW - that car looks incredible with the new wheels and tires - nice work
Old 1/3/07, 06:50 PM
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Looking good Brad.

I didn't think that 1/4 inch out would bother me that much but since I put the new panhard bar on and adjusted it out I can notice the improvement.

They don't call me "eagle eye" for nothing.
Old 1/3/07, 08:53 PM
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Originally Posted by MTAS
I hear ya, and that you're happy with the end result is all that matters And BTW - that car looks incredible with the new wheels and tires - nice work
Thanks for your advice on the 295 rear tires. You were right, the fit great, no rubbing, and look good and really fill up that rear wheel well.

Originally Posted by GRAYPNY
Looking good Brad.

I didn't think that 1/4 inch out would bother me that much but since I put the new panhard bar on and adjusted it out I can notice the improvement.

They don't call me "eagle eye" for nothing.
I know what you mean. Especially with wide tires on there, the offset to the side is really noticeable. On one side, I had tire sticking out, and the other, the tire was still inside the wheel well. Talk about weird looking.

But it's all good now.
Old 1/3/07, 08:58 PM
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Looks great..
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