CHE Anti-Squat Brackets and LCAs
2/17/07, 04:26 AM
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CHE Anti-Squat Brackets and LCAs
Thought about going out and getting drunk last night, but stayed in and had a few beers while I swapped out some suspension parts.
Installed the CHE Anti-Squat brackets and swapped out the fixed Steeda LCA's for the CHE Severe Duty double adjustabe LCAs with poly ends.
Install went fairly smooth, took about 3 hours. Most of the time was using the Dremel to enlarge the holes on the squat brackets to get the supplied bolts through. One thing I've learned, any time I read "may need clearancing or enlarging due to factory deviations", that means "WILL need to break out the Dremel" for me. Also a little bit of a pain getting 129ftlbs of torque in a couple of spots, but got her done.
Speaking of torque, my front bolts were way loose, I'd say probably only 30ftlbs holding them one. I should check them more often, but when I put them on, I didn't torque them. Lesson learned.
Thing to note, I don't see how I could have put the fixed length LCA's back on with the anti squat brackets. I had to lengthen the CHE bars 3 full turns longer. Looked like each full turn was about a quarter of an inch. Then again, my pinion angle started way off at 0 if not a hair positive.
The ride is a tad stiffer, and a slight increase in road noise coming from the rear. Overall, the car feels more solid and planted with the ground. There is no vibration or harshness or knocking, just a slight more amount of road noise into the cabin, but to be expected with a stiffer/stronger connection. Nothing really to worry about, could be due to my almost no torque I had on the front LCA bolts before.
Also the big 295's rub just a little now. The wheels are now moved back about 1/2", and aren't quite centered in the wheel well. So, the drivers side tire is rubbing on a spot where there is a build up of paint/welding/something under the lip of the wheel well, that I plan on smoothing out with the Dremel.
Another option is to install the adjustable UCA and go a little shorter on it, so I can go shorter on the LCA's to keep the same pinion angle but the move the axle forward again to center the tires in the wheel well (front to back).
Speaking of pinion, I can't believe I got it on the first try. 2.5 degrees down. This car's pinion angle must have been off from the factory, because I can't believe how quite the shifts are now. I mean shifting hard into third was like smacking a hammer on something under the car. It is really amazing the difference, so much less clunking it's hard to describe but let's just say if you've got some clunking when you shift, check out the pinion angle.
Also, the anti-squats do there job perfectly. The LCA is now perfectly level with the rest of the car, where it was pointing up at the axle with the Roush lowering springs. Squat has been reduced to 10-15% of what it was, a really noticeable difference. Before, it felt like the tailpipes were going to drag at WOT. Well worth it. The don't appear to be rubbing on the sway bar, or anything else.
No wheelhop either, which since I've put on the heavier 18x10s and 295s, the wheelhop went away completely.
Once again, very pleased with the CHE parts, highly recommend them. Any body want some Steeda LCAs?
Looking forward to the Denny's drive shaft next, with the CHE UCA, loop, and K member brace with T/L's as well.
Hope this helps some one, some day.
Installed the CHE Anti-Squat brackets and swapped out the fixed Steeda LCA's for the CHE Severe Duty double adjustabe LCAs with poly ends.
Install went fairly smooth, took about 3 hours. Most of the time was using the Dremel to enlarge the holes on the squat brackets to get the supplied bolts through. One thing I've learned, any time I read "may need clearancing or enlarging due to factory deviations", that means "WILL need to break out the Dremel" for me. Also a little bit of a pain getting 129ftlbs of torque in a couple of spots, but got her done.
Speaking of torque, my front bolts were way loose, I'd say probably only 30ftlbs holding them one. I should check them more often, but when I put them on, I didn't torque them. Lesson learned.
Thing to note, I don't see how I could have put the fixed length LCA's back on with the anti squat brackets. I had to lengthen the CHE bars 3 full turns longer. Looked like each full turn was about a quarter of an inch. Then again, my pinion angle started way off at 0 if not a hair positive.
The ride is a tad stiffer, and a slight increase in road noise coming from the rear. Overall, the car feels more solid and planted with the ground. There is no vibration or harshness or knocking, just a slight more amount of road noise into the cabin, but to be expected with a stiffer/stronger connection. Nothing really to worry about, could be due to my almost no torque I had on the front LCA bolts before.
Also the big 295's rub just a little now. The wheels are now moved back about 1/2", and aren't quite centered in the wheel well. So, the drivers side tire is rubbing on a spot where there is a build up of paint/welding/something under the lip of the wheel well, that I plan on smoothing out with the Dremel.
Another option is to install the adjustable UCA and go a little shorter on it, so I can go shorter on the LCA's to keep the same pinion angle but the move the axle forward again to center the tires in the wheel well (front to back).
Speaking of pinion, I can't believe I got it on the first try. 2.5 degrees down. This car's pinion angle must have been off from the factory, because I can't believe how quite the shifts are now. I mean shifting hard into third was like smacking a hammer on something under the car. It is really amazing the difference, so much less clunking it's hard to describe but let's just say if you've got some clunking when you shift, check out the pinion angle.
Also, the anti-squats do there job perfectly. The LCA is now perfectly level with the rest of the car, where it was pointing up at the axle with the Roush lowering springs. Squat has been reduced to 10-15% of what it was, a really noticeable difference. Before, it felt like the tailpipes were going to drag at WOT. Well worth it. The don't appear to be rubbing on the sway bar, or anything else.
No wheelhop either, which since I've put on the heavier 18x10s and 295s, the wheelhop went away completely.
Once again, very pleased with the CHE parts, highly recommend them. Any body want some Steeda LCAs?
Looking forward to the Denny's drive shaft next, with the CHE UCA, loop, and K member brace with T/L's as well.
Hope this helps some one, some day.
2/17/07, 07:04 AM
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Thought about going out and getting drunk last night, but stayed in and had a few beers while I swapped out some suspension parts.
Installed the CHE Anti-Squat brackets and swapped out the fixed Steeda LCA's for the CHE Severe Duty double adjustabe LCAs with poly ends.
Install went fairly smooth, took about 3 hours. Most of the time was using the Dremel to enlarge the holes on the squat brackets to get the supplied bolts through. One thing I've learned, any time I read "may need clearancing or enlarging due to factory deviations", that means "WILL need to break out the Dremel" for me. Also a little bit of a pain getting 129ftlbs of torque in a couple of spots, but got her done.
Speaking of torque, my front bolts were way loose, I'd say probably only 30ftlbs holding them one. I should check them more often, but when I put them on, I didn't torque them. Lesson learned.
Thing to note, I don't see how I could have put the fixed length LCA's back on with the anti squat brackets. I had to lengthen the CHE bars 3 full turns longer. Looked like each full turn was about a quarter of an inch. Then again, my pinion angle started way off at 0 if not a hair positive.
The ride is a tad stiffer, and a slight increase in road noise coming from the rear. Overall, the car feels more solid and planted with the ground. There is no vibration or harshness or knocking, just a slight more amount of road noise into the cabin, but to be expected with a stiffer/stronger connection. Nothing really to worry about, could be due to my almost no torque I had on the front LCA bolts before.
Also the big 295's rub just a little now. The wheels are now moved back about 1/2", and aren't quite centered in the wheel well. So, the drivers side tire is rubbing on a spot where there is a build up of paint/welding/something under the lip of the wheel well, that I plan on smoothing out with the Dremel.
Another option is to install the adjustable UCA and go a little shorter on it, so I can go shorter on the LCA's to keep the same pinion angle but the move the axle forward again to center the tires in the wheel well (front to back).
Speaking of pinion, I can't believe I got it on the first try. 2.5 degrees down. This car's pinion angle must have been off from the factory, because I can't believe how quite the shifts are now. I mean shifting hard into third was like smacking a hammer on something under the car. It is really amazing the difference, so much less clunking it's hard to describe but let's just say if you've got some clunking when you shift, check out the pinion angle.
Also, the anti-squats do there job perfectly. The LCA is now perfectly level with the rest of the car, where it was pointing up at the axle with the Roush lowering springs. Squat has been reduced to 10-15% of what it was, a really noticeable difference. Before, it felt like the tailpipes were going to drag at WOT. Well worth it. The don't appear to be rubbing on the sway bar, or anything else.
No wheelhop either, which since I've put on the heavier 18x10s and 295s, the wheelhop went away completely.
Once again, very pleased with the CHE parts, highly recommend them. Any body want some Steeda LCAs?
Looking forward to the Denny's drive shaft next, with the CHE UCA, loop, and K member brace with T/L's as well.
Hope this helps some one, some day.
Installed the CHE Anti-Squat brackets and swapped out the fixed Steeda LCA's for the CHE Severe Duty double adjustabe LCAs with poly ends.
Install went fairly smooth, took about 3 hours. Most of the time was using the Dremel to enlarge the holes on the squat brackets to get the supplied bolts through. One thing I've learned, any time I read "may need clearancing or enlarging due to factory deviations", that means "WILL need to break out the Dremel" for me. Also a little bit of a pain getting 129ftlbs of torque in a couple of spots, but got her done.
Speaking of torque, my front bolts were way loose, I'd say probably only 30ftlbs holding them one. I should check them more often, but when I put them on, I didn't torque them. Lesson learned.
Thing to note, I don't see how I could have put the fixed length LCA's back on with the anti squat brackets. I had to lengthen the CHE bars 3 full turns longer. Looked like each full turn was about a quarter of an inch. Then again, my pinion angle started way off at 0 if not a hair positive.
The ride is a tad stiffer, and a slight increase in road noise coming from the rear. Overall, the car feels more solid and planted with the ground. There is no vibration or harshness or knocking, just a slight more amount of road noise into the cabin, but to be expected with a stiffer/stronger connection. Nothing really to worry about, could be due to my almost no torque I had on the front LCA bolts before.
Also the big 295's rub just a little now. The wheels are now moved back about 1/2", and aren't quite centered in the wheel well. So, the drivers side tire is rubbing on a spot where there is a build up of paint/welding/something under the lip of the wheel well, that I plan on smoothing out with the Dremel.
Another option is to install the adjustable UCA and go a little shorter on it, so I can go shorter on the LCA's to keep the same pinion angle but the move the axle forward again to center the tires in the wheel well (front to back).
Speaking of pinion, I can't believe I got it on the first try. 2.5 degrees down. This car's pinion angle must have been off from the factory, because I can't believe how quite the shifts are now. I mean shifting hard into third was like smacking a hammer on something under the car. It is really amazing the difference, so much less clunking it's hard to describe but let's just say if you've got some clunking when you shift, check out the pinion angle.
Also, the anti-squats do there job perfectly. The LCA is now perfectly level with the rest of the car, where it was pointing up at the axle with the Roush lowering springs. Squat has been reduced to 10-15% of what it was, a really noticeable difference. Before, it felt like the tailpipes were going to drag at WOT. Well worth it. The don't appear to be rubbing on the sway bar, or anything else.
No wheelhop either, which since I've put on the heavier 18x10s and 295s, the wheelhop went away completely.
Once again, very pleased with the CHE parts, highly recommend them. Any body want some Steeda LCAs?
Looking forward to the Denny's drive shaft next, with the CHE UCA, loop, and K member brace with T/L's as well.
Hope this helps some one, some day.
But I wouldnt get too excited if I were you. And here is why.
I had the same setup on my GT that you now have on yours. Installed correctly and torqued to spec. (129#) The CHE setup was removed and replaced with Steeda non adj poly to poly w/o relocation bracket.
After a few days I started to hear a faint knock sound when slowing to a stop............I thought..........Hmmmm! what could that be?
After months of investigative work and a lot of money spent at my favorite speed shop. We finally figured it out.
Some facts:
The factory LCA bolts measure .498" in diameter in the area that the most of the LCA sleeve rides.
The factory LCA sleeves inside diameter measure .565".
The CHE adj. poly to poly LCA front sleeve inside diameter measures .555"
and the rear sleeve inside diameter measures .548"
Because the factory bolts are so much smaller than the after-market inside diameter of the sleeves the LCA's can move horizontally in addition being allowed to move up and down.
I had to replace the CHE's because since the factory bolts fit so loosely in the CHE sleeves the bolts torn up the inside of the CHE sleeves. The sleeves are not hardened steel. As can be seen by the factory LCA bolts threads chewing into the sleeves and flattening the factory LCA bolt threads.
The Steeda LCA's I purchased a few weeks are having the same problem and will soon be destroyed due to using the factory LCA bolts.
I have sent emails and PM'd Gus with Steeda and Kevin with PMP (CHE) neither has bother to reply to discuss this issue.
I have asked Gus with Steeda to please furnish LCA bolts and nuts that fit their LCA sleeves. No reply.
Because the factory LCA bolts fit very loosely in the factory LCA sleeves this could cause premature failure of the LCA and result in possible damage to the drivetrain. Not to mention possible injury due to lose of control of the vehicle.
The only way to avoid any issues with after market issues as stated above is for CHE, BMR and Steeda to furnish the proper size LCA bolts for their product.
Before anyone starts posting here that I'm full of crap you may want to invest the time and money I have to expose this issue.
Heres what you need to have in hand:
1. a stock LCA
2. a CHE LCA
3. a Steeda LCA
4. a new set of factory LCA bolts (notice manufacturing of the bolt)
5. an accurate electronic digital caliper with a (.001") accuracy
I dont know the proper procedure for filing a recall with Ford to correct this issue.........if I did.........I would be on it like white on a cue ball.
I guess you can tell I'm pretty p*ssed off about this whole issue.
Have a good day.
2/17/07, 10:03 PM
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Well another way to look at it, is the holes in the sleeves are too big for Ford and the aftermarket. The Ford one is on the order of 1/16" clearance, a better fit would be 1/32" clearance. Any tighter, then assembly is more difficult.
However looking at it from a engineers eye, based on the specified torque requirement, it is clear that Ford was intending the clamping force (caused by the torqued up bolt / nut assy) to hold the sleeve tight in the mounting bracket, rather than the bolt (due to its generous clearance). Therefore, for best results it is important to ensure that the bolts are tightened to the factory specification. Since these after market parts are stiffer bushing than factory, it might be better yet to get some aftermarket bolt one grade higher and have the advantage to torque theem up even more (more clamping load). So someting like a 1/2" Grade 8 Hex or allen bolt, with a unthreaded shank the length between outside of the mounting brackets (avoids threads in bearing) would be the best solution for extreme service.
Your sleeves were torn up by the bolt, because there was insufficent clamping force (your fault) and the sleve was able to shift back and forth between accelleration and deacceleration. It it were me, because the bolts were not tight enough to clamp the sleeve, the bolts have been subject to a lot of cyclic loading which affect thier fatigue life, you should toss them and replace with new. Your brackets may even have elongated holes too, due to the cyclic loading!!
Electronic claipers are nice, but mechanical ones just as easily and acurately read to 0.001".
However looking at it from a engineers eye, based on the specified torque requirement, it is clear that Ford was intending the clamping force (caused by the torqued up bolt / nut assy) to hold the sleeve tight in the mounting bracket, rather than the bolt (due to its generous clearance). Therefore, for best results it is important to ensure that the bolts are tightened to the factory specification. Since these after market parts are stiffer bushing than factory, it might be better yet to get some aftermarket bolt one grade higher and have the advantage to torque theem up even more (more clamping load). So someting like a 1/2" Grade 8 Hex or allen bolt, with a unthreaded shank the length between outside of the mounting brackets (avoids threads in bearing) would be the best solution for extreme service.
Your sleeves were torn up by the bolt, because there was insufficent clamping force (your fault) and the sleve was able to shift back and forth between accelleration and deacceleration. It it were me, because the bolts were not tight enough to clamp the sleeve, the bolts have been subject to a lot of cyclic loading which affect thier fatigue life, you should toss them and replace with new. Your brackets may even have elongated holes too, due to the cyclic loading!!
Electronic claipers are nice, but mechanical ones just as easily and acurately read to 0.001".
2/18/07, 10:06 AM
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But I wouldnt get too excited if I were you.
...damage to the drivetrain.
Not to mention possible injury due to lose of control of the vehicle.
Before anyone starts posting here that I'm full of crap you may want to invest the time and money I have to expose this issue.
I guess you can tell I'm pretty p*ssed off about this whole issue.
Have a good day.
...damage to the drivetrain.
Not to mention possible injury due to lose of control of the vehicle.
Before anyone starts posting here that I'm full of crap you may want to invest the time and money I have to expose this issue.
I guess you can tell I'm pretty p*ssed off about this whole issue.
Have a good day.
Have a nice day too.
2/19/07, 11:03 AM
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Sorry for the delay in replying, I have been out sick since Thursday of last week, which is when GT John tried sending me a message on the issue.
The factory bolt is a 14mm bolt, the shoulder where the sleeve rides on the bolt is reduced to 12.6mm. Which as documented is smaller than the factory sleeve size.
We, as well as the other manufacturers listed have chosen to use the O.E. sleeve size. We have not run into any issues with this on other cars up to this point, including all the installs we do here.
Clamping force is the key to this setup as suggested by Radboss. Hence the arms must be torqued to proper spec in order to avoid any issues. More importantly, if the factory bolts has been used more than once, it should be replaced as these are torque to yield bolts. Re-using the bolts several times due to different control arms swaps can lead to this issue.
We would suggest getting fresh hardware from a local Ford dealer and re-torquing to spec.
Gus
The factory bolt is a 14mm bolt, the shoulder where the sleeve rides on the bolt is reduced to 12.6mm. Which as documented is smaller than the factory sleeve size.
We, as well as the other manufacturers listed have chosen to use the O.E. sleeve size. We have not run into any issues with this on other cars up to this point, including all the installs we do here.
Clamping force is the key to this setup as suggested by Radboss. Hence the arms must be torqued to proper spec in order to avoid any issues. More importantly, if the factory bolts has been used more than once, it should be replaced as these are torque to yield bolts. Re-using the bolts several times due to different control arms swaps can lead to this issue.
We would suggest getting fresh hardware from a local Ford dealer and re-torquing to spec.
Gus
2/19/07, 04:28 PM
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I have the Che brackets
Mine are tight after months, I'm just concerned that they pull my axel back 3/4" or an 1" with my Steeda fixed control arms. This makes my large Saleen springs pull to the back of the spring socket. I think I'm going to go with the Steeda or BMR multi hole setting brackets to relieve the axel tension. What do you guys think? Thanks, Erik
2/19/07, 06:54 PM
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Mine are tight after months, I'm just concerned that they pull my axel back 3/4" or an 1" with my Steeda fixed control arms. This makes my large Saleen springs pull to the back of the spring socket. I think I'm going to go with the Steeda or BMR multi hole setting brackets to relieve the axel tension. What do you guys think? Thanks, Erik
2/19/07, 07:28 PM
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Sorry for the delay in replying, I have been out sick since Thursday of last week, which is when GT John tried sending me a message on the issue.
The factory bolt is a 14mm bolt, the shoulder where the sleeve rides on the bolt is reduced to 12.6mm. Which as documented is smaller than the factory sleeve size.
We, as well as the other manufacturers listed have chosen to use the O.E. sleeve size. We have not run into any issues with this on other cars up to this point, including all the installs we do here.
Clamping force is the key to this setup as suggested by Radboss. Hence the arms must be torqued to proper spec in order to avoid any issues. More importantly, if the factory bolts has been used more than once, it should be replaced as these are torque to yield bolts. Re-using the bolts several times due to different control arms swaps can lead to this issue.
We would suggest getting fresh hardware from a local Ford dealer and re-torquing to spec.
Gus
The factory bolt is a 14mm bolt, the shoulder where the sleeve rides on the bolt is reduced to 12.6mm. Which as documented is smaller than the factory sleeve size.
We, as well as the other manufacturers listed have chosen to use the O.E. sleeve size. We have not run into any issues with this on other cars up to this point, including all the installs we do here.
Clamping force is the key to this setup as suggested by Radboss. Hence the arms must be torqued to proper spec in order to avoid any issues. More importantly, if the factory bolts has been used more than once, it should be replaced as these are torque to yield bolts. Re-using the bolts several times due to different control arms swaps can lead to this issue.
We would suggest getting fresh hardware from a local Ford dealer and re-torquing to spec.
Gus
Compression of the sleeves between the brackets is not acceptable.
Furnishing bolts that fit your sleeves is the best fix and would meet with good engineering practices.
The bolts Ford used were more for convienence of installation by their "left handed robots" rather than the size that should have been used.
Sell me some bolts and nuts that fit your sleeves and my car.
Problem solved
2/19/07, 09:21 PM
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I disagree. Its a perfectly sound and good engineering solution for that type of connection. It takes the cyclic loading (and fatigue) off the bolt as well. To do what you suggest would require press fit bolt to eliminate any chance of clearance ... and that would include the sleeves and mounting brackets as well ... not a very pratical solution to assemble and disassemble. Gus is right, replace the bolts, apply the correct torque. Only other option is to replace the bolts with higher grade and get more clamping force as well.
2/20/07, 05:33 AM
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I disagree. Its a perfectly sound and good engineering solution for that type of connection. It takes the cyclic loading (and fatigue) off the bolt as well.
To do what you suggest would require press fit bolt to eliminate any chance of clearance ... and that would include the sleeves and mounting brackets as well ... not a very pratical solution to assemble and disassemble. Gus is right, replace the bolts, apply the correct torque. Only other option is to replace the bolts with higher grade and get more clamping force as well.
To do what you suggest would require press fit bolt to eliminate any chance of clearance ... and that would include the sleeves and mounting brackets as well ... not a very pratical solution to assemble and disassemble. Gus is right, replace the bolts, apply the correct torque. Only other option is to replace the bolts with higher grade and get more clamping force as well.
The Ford factory LCA bolts are different sizes in diameter along their length. The largest diameter of the Ford LCA bolt fits just fine in the CHE and Steeda LCA's (about 1/32" clearance).
You know, it may be just quite possible that the standards I've expected for good engineering pratices and manufacturing are just something thats not going to be reached any time soon.
If a manufacturer is going to go to the trouble of manufacturing a sleeve, the bolt that the sleeve is built for should at least be the same diameter along its length. If not, offer a bolt that is the same diameter along its length with acceptable clearances for the application. (1/32" should work).
To depend on a compression fitting of a sleeve between two brackets when so much torque is involved is not a good idea. This could lead to premature failure of the sleeve and/or bushing.
Not everyone checks the torque on their LCA's every week.
Sorry about hijacking this thread.........it wont happen again.
2/20/07, 07:26 PM
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I guess my point is, if there is any clearance between the bolt and the sleeve or the bracket, and you can accept that sufficient clamping won't keep the sleeve from slipping between the brackets, then whether you have 0.032" clearance or 0.063", then there will be fretting between the bolt and the sleeve or the bracket and it will get looser and looser over time, clearance wise and clamping resistance wise. If you can accept, clamping forces are sufficent to keep the sleeve from moving, then there will not be any fretting.
2/22/07, 04:15 PM
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The relationship to the bolt and sleeve is correct. The bolts intention is to clamp the sleeve to the brackets. The bolt is not a shear pin. If it did fit tight in the sleeve it would never be servicable after it was intially installed.
That is why the original bolt has only a shoulder and not a constant dia. The shoulder only locates the sleeve to be clamped by the bolt/bracket.
If you have any questions please feel free to give me a call. 814 774 4966
That is why the original bolt has only a shoulder and not a constant dia. The shoulder only locates the sleeve to be clamped by the bolt/bracket.
If you have any questions please feel free to give me a call. 814 774 4966
2/22/07, 05:55 PM
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Okay guys here is the straight scoop. The Ford rear LCA bolts and nuts were designed to be used once and only once.
Ford Removal and Installation Instruction clearly state this fact.
This is where you can get the Ford part numbers.
http://www.2005stang.com/gallery/alb...suspention.pdf
This is where the Ford LCA Removal and Installation Instructions are.
http://www.2005stang.com/gallery/alb...7/LCA-rear.pdf
Not replacing these bolts and nuts can result in damage to the cars suspension.
After months of trying to figure out why my LCA was making a knock sound and months of going back to my local speed shop to have the LCA's re-torqued the issue has finally be fixed.
I purchased a new set of rear LCA bolts and nuts from Ford ($35) to replace the original bolts and nuts.
The new rear front LCA nuts are specially designed, they have what I will call a "crush washer". This can be clearly seen by comparing a new nut to a removed original nut. These things can be torqued "one time" if they are ever removed they are to be discarded and replaced.
If Steeda or CHE would have had this information on their web site or written in the installation instructions I wouldnt have had the issues that I've been having with the LCA's.
Gus at Steeda has been a big help. CHE has not responded to inquiries.
I now have the Steeda non-adj poly to poly on the car and the knock sound is history.
Many thanks to Gus at Steeda. And by the way, if Gus takes my suggestion you may see in their advertisement and/or installation instructions to replace the LCA bolts and nuts with new ones.
Have a good day.
Ford Removal and Installation Instruction clearly state this fact.
This is where you can get the Ford part numbers.
http://www.2005stang.com/gallery/alb...suspention.pdf
This is where the Ford LCA Removal and Installation Instructions are.
http://www.2005stang.com/gallery/alb...7/LCA-rear.pdf
Not replacing these bolts and nuts can result in damage to the cars suspension.
After months of trying to figure out why my LCA was making a knock sound and months of going back to my local speed shop to have the LCA's re-torqued the issue has finally be fixed.
I purchased a new set of rear LCA bolts and nuts from Ford ($35) to replace the original bolts and nuts.
The new rear front LCA nuts are specially designed, they have what I will call a "crush washer". This can be clearly seen by comparing a new nut to a removed original nut. These things can be torqued "one time" if they are ever removed they are to be discarded and replaced.
If Steeda or CHE would have had this information on their web site or written in the installation instructions I wouldnt have had the issues that I've been having with the LCA's.
Gus at Steeda has been a big help. CHE has not responded to inquiries.
I now have the Steeda non-adj poly to poly on the car and the knock sound is history.
Many thanks to Gus at Steeda. And by the way, if Gus takes my suggestion you may see in their advertisement and/or installation instructions to replace the LCA bolts and nuts with new ones.
Have a good day.
2/23/07, 04:19 PM
#17
Cobra Member
Okay guys here is the straight scoop. The Ford rear LCA bolts and nuts were designed to be used once and only once.
Ford Removal and Installation Instruction clearly state this fact.
This is where you can get the Ford part numbers.
http://www.2005stang.com/gallery/alb...suspention.pdf
This is where the Ford LCA Removal and Installation Instructions are.
http://www.2005stang.com/gallery/alb...7/LCA-rear.pdf
Not replacing these bolts and nuts can result in damage to the cars suspension.
After months of trying to figure out why my LCA was making a knock sound and months of going back to my local speed shop to have the LCA's re-torqued the issue has finally be fixed.
I purchased a new set of rear LCA bolts and nuts from Ford ($35) to replace the original bolts and nuts.
The new rear front LCA nuts are specially designed, they have what I will call a "crush washer". This can be clearly seen by comparing a new nut to a removed original nut. These things can be torqued "one time" if they are ever removed they are to be discarded and replaced.
If Steeda or CHE would have had this information on their web site or written in the installation instructions I wouldnt have had the issues that I've been having with the LCA's.
Gus at Steeda has been a big help. CHE has not responded to inquiries.
I now have the Steeda non-adj poly to poly on the car and the knock sound is history.
Many thanks to Gus at Steeda. And by the way, if Gus takes my suggestion you may see in their advertisement and/or installation instructions to replace the LCA bolts and nuts with new ones.
Have a good day.
Ford Removal and Installation Instruction clearly state this fact.
This is where you can get the Ford part numbers.
http://www.2005stang.com/gallery/alb...suspention.pdf
This is where the Ford LCA Removal and Installation Instructions are.
http://www.2005stang.com/gallery/alb...7/LCA-rear.pdf
Not replacing these bolts and nuts can result in damage to the cars suspension.
After months of trying to figure out why my LCA was making a knock sound and months of going back to my local speed shop to have the LCA's re-torqued the issue has finally be fixed.
I purchased a new set of rear LCA bolts and nuts from Ford ($35) to replace the original bolts and nuts.
The new rear front LCA nuts are specially designed, they have what I will call a "crush washer". This can be clearly seen by comparing a new nut to a removed original nut. These things can be torqued "one time" if they are ever removed they are to be discarded and replaced.
If Steeda or CHE would have had this information on their web site or written in the installation instructions I wouldnt have had the issues that I've been having with the LCA's.
Gus at Steeda has been a big help. CHE has not responded to inquiries.
I now have the Steeda non-adj poly to poly on the car and the knock sound is history.
Many thanks to Gus at Steeda. And by the way, if Gus takes my suggestion you may see in their advertisement and/or installation instructions to replace the LCA bolts and nuts with new ones.
Have a good day.
Richard
2/23/07, 05:42 PM
#18
Bullitt Member
Join Date: April 16, 2006
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WOW! Talk about and about face. A few lines above you were arguing the some of the Performance guys from Steeda that there was no way that is what it was and that is not how the bolts were designed. Curious as to why the sudden change? Not trying to be smart but why all of a sudden are you now agreeing with what they tried to explain to you already and you would not believe them. Glad you finally took the advice and solved your issue.
Richard
Richard
Nice guy, he has been a big help.The Ford LCA bolts are torque to yield thats why they are not to be reused. Also the front LCA nuts have a crush washer behind the nut. The whole system is torque to yield.
Sure aint like the old days back in the early 60's.
Thanks man.
2/23/07, 06:17 PM
#20
Bullitt Member
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