Changed my oil with spec amount, still reads low.
Changed my oil with spec amount, still reads low.
Pretty much as the title says. I switched to Royal Purple at 2,800 miles. Used 6 U.S. quarts, started it up for about 30 seconds, shut it off, checked the oil level, and it reads about 1/4 of a quart low on the dip stick. I know that I've seen official Ford documents that states a the 3v uses 6 quarts. So what to do? Add according to my dip stick, or listen to Ford? 
Thanks,
Brandon

Thanks,
Brandon
That's a great point. I mean, the dipstick is completely down the tube for sure. What's the possibility that it's reading incorrectly?
Ford's dipsticks vs fill amts aren't always spot on. My Ranger always needs more than spec'ed. Have not changed the stang's oil yet to find out.
Also are you using an exact replacement filter? Some filters tend to hold more oil than others.
Also are you using an exact replacement filter? Some filters tend to hold more oil than others.
Ahhh another good point. I'm using the specified Mobil 1 oil filter.
I think a few may have already pointed out some things to consider. You are not using a FORD filter so it may hold more oil (I have also seen some hold less). I am sure you have checked that you are on level ground. I have also seen where depending on which way you insert the dipstick, it will show either full, or low. Just rotate it 180 degrees and try again (but again, this might not apply in this case). I'd still say it is the filter.
Hmm... I think my manual says 5.5 quarts, my dipstick reads a little over the cross-hatched area if I put in all 6 quarts, which I did for 4-5 oil changes... last oil change I put in 5.5. Just because.
Anything bad going to happen from that?
Anything bad going to happen from that?
And yes guys, I did check the oil with the car level on the ground.
"
What happens when an engine is overfilled with oil?
So you topped up the engine when it was warm after getting a faulty dipstick reading, or you put too much oil in when you changed it yourself. What's the worst that could happen? Well the problem with this is that the next time the engine is run, the windage in the crankcase and other pressures generated by the oil pump, etc. place a great strain on the seal on the rear main bearing.
Eventually, often much sooner than the ordinary man in the street might expect, the rear main bearing seal ruptures, and the engine becomes a 'leaker'. If you've got a manual gearbox, this means one thing: this oil goes right onto the flywheel and the face of the clutch disc. A lubricated clutch is A Bad Thing. If this still goes unnoticed, the front seal is the next to go, and the engine then becomes a 'gusher' (or to be more colourful, it starts pissing oil all over the place). As well as smothering the clutch with oil from the rear, the oil now coming from the front leak will be neatly distributed about the engine bay as it hits the front pulley - often propelling it out as far as the brake discs. At the same time as this Hollywood disaster movie is unfolding outside the engine, things aren't working out any better on the inside. As you can see from the diagram, the correct oil level is really close to the rotating crank. Overfilling will mean the crank dips into the oil and churns it into a froth. Froth is good on certain types of coffee but not good in an engine. The mixture of aerated oil will be forced into the bearings and in case you didn't know, air is not a lubricant. Typically this means that bearing damage will follow quite rapidly, especially if you are driving on a motorway. You'll know bearing damage when you get it. The engine smells like a garage mechanic cooking over an open flame and the noise coming from the engine is the sort of thing you'd normally hear in vaudeville plays when a piano is pushed down a flight of stairs. As if that all wasn't bad enough, the excess oil gets thrown up into the piston bores where the piston rings have a hard time coping with the excess oil and pressure. It gets into the combustion chamber and some of it will get out into the exhaust system unburned resulting in a nice patina of oil all over the platinum surfaces of your catalytic converter. This renders it utterly useless for good."
[QUOTE=adrenalin;5607080]It can do some damage. Instead of typing out an essay, here is a quote from the following webpage http://www.carbibles.com/engineoil_bible.htmlQUOTE]
That is a great site!
That is a great site!
It can do some damage. Instead of typing out an essay, here is a quote from the following webpage http://www.carbibles.com/engineoil_bible.html
"
What happens when an engine is overfilled with oil?
So you topped up the engine when it was warm after getting a faulty dipstick reading, or you put too much oil in when you changed it yourself. What's the worst that could happen? Well the problem with this is that the next time the engine is run, the windage in the crankcase and other pressures generated by the oil pump, etc. place a great strain on the seal on the rear main bearing.
Eventually, often much sooner than the ordinary man in the street might expect, the rear main bearing seal ruptures, and the engine becomes a 'leaker'. If you've got a manual gearbox, this means one thing: this oil goes right onto the flywheel and the face of the clutch disc. A lubricated clutch is A Bad Thing. If this still goes unnoticed, the front seal is the next to go, and the engine then becomes a 'gusher' (or to be more colourful, it starts pissing oil all over the place). As well as smothering the clutch with oil from the rear, the oil now coming from the front leak will be neatly distributed about the engine bay as it hits the front pulley - often propelling it out as far as the brake discs. At the same time as this Hollywood disaster movie is unfolding outside the engine, things aren't working out any better on the inside. As you can see from the diagram, the correct oil level is really close to the rotating crank. Overfilling will mean the crank dips into the oil and churns it into a froth. Froth is good on certain types of coffee but not good in an engine. The mixture of aerated oil will be forced into the bearings and in case you didn't know, air is not a lubricant. Typically this means that bearing damage will follow quite rapidly, especially if you are driving on a motorway. You'll know bearing damage when you get it. The engine smells like a garage mechanic cooking over an open flame and the noise coming from the engine is the sort of thing you'd normally hear in vaudeville plays when a piano is pushed down a flight of stairs. As if that all wasn't bad enough, the excess oil gets thrown up into the piston bores where the piston rings have a hard time coping with the excess oil and pressure. It gets into the combustion chamber and some of it will get out into the exhaust system unburned resulting in a nice patina of oil all over the platinum surfaces of your catalytic converter. This renders it utterly useless for good."
"
What happens when an engine is overfilled with oil?
So you topped up the engine when it was warm after getting a faulty dipstick reading, or you put too much oil in when you changed it yourself. What's the worst that could happen? Well the problem with this is that the next time the engine is run, the windage in the crankcase and other pressures generated by the oil pump, etc. place a great strain on the seal on the rear main bearing.
Eventually, often much sooner than the ordinary man in the street might expect, the rear main bearing seal ruptures, and the engine becomes a 'leaker'. If you've got a manual gearbox, this means one thing: this oil goes right onto the flywheel and the face of the clutch disc. A lubricated clutch is A Bad Thing. If this still goes unnoticed, the front seal is the next to go, and the engine then becomes a 'gusher' (or to be more colourful, it starts pissing oil all over the place). As well as smothering the clutch with oil from the rear, the oil now coming from the front leak will be neatly distributed about the engine bay as it hits the front pulley - often propelling it out as far as the brake discs. At the same time as this Hollywood disaster movie is unfolding outside the engine, things aren't working out any better on the inside. As you can see from the diagram, the correct oil level is really close to the rotating crank. Overfilling will mean the crank dips into the oil and churns it into a froth. Froth is good on certain types of coffee but not good in an engine. The mixture of aerated oil will be forced into the bearings and in case you didn't know, air is not a lubricant. Typically this means that bearing damage will follow quite rapidly, especially if you are driving on a motorway. You'll know bearing damage when you get it. The engine smells like a garage mechanic cooking over an open flame and the noise coming from the engine is the sort of thing you'd normally hear in vaudeville plays when a piano is pushed down a flight of stairs. As if that all wasn't bad enough, the excess oil gets thrown up into the piston bores where the piston rings have a hard time coping with the excess oil and pressure. It gets into the combustion chamber and some of it will get out into the exhaust system unburned resulting in a nice patina of oil all over the platinum surfaces of your catalytic converter. This renders it utterly useless for good."
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Always add the specified amount. Then check and record[you will forget where it is] the mark on the dipstick and that mark will be your full line. Check it each time you change your oil and see is it stays the same.It could be something about the dipstick and tube assy. not installed all the way in or the tube could be a little long.Don't overfill as stated above.
+1 on marking the dip stick. I have to check mine on an angle so the first time I filled it with the specified 6 quarts , the next morning when it was absolutely cold and all the oil was in the pan I marked the dip stick where the level was ...



