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Can you set the spark plug gap on stock spark plugs?
Hi all,
I bought a set of replacement spark plugs for my 2005 4.6 GT. I have never dealt with these types of plugs before and am unfamiliar with whether or not you can set the spark plug gap on them, as they look pretty solid.
Are these pre-set?
This is a picture borrowed from the internet, as it shows the style I'm talking about.
Is your 2005 GT bone stock or heavily modified? If you have cams, forced induction or heads that require re-gapping of the spark plugs? then these 4.6L 3valve plugs require a special gapping tool that can be purchased from https://www.steeda.com/steeda-spark-...-555-8901.html If your 2005 GT is bone stock or just lightly modified such as CAI? then it is not required to gap the spark plugs, as they are pre-gapped from the factory for stock applications. Meanwhile, hope you'll find this info as useful and welcome aboard.
My engine is 95% stock. I just installed a CAI last weekend, but that's the first mod I've done. Otherwise, it's mostly been a full tuneup and fluid changes.
Next I'll be looking into headers and exhaust, but probably not much beyond that, so stock plugs should be fine for quite some time.
Thanks for the info and for the link. That's a hefty priced spark plug tool.
I imagine that's just for changing the gap? As for checking it, I have a feeler gauge, but it wouldn't fit into the given space.
Or does that tool also have something in it to check the gap?
Otherwise, I imagine I'd need a narrower feeler gauge:
yeah, they should be pre-gapped and very stable so should not need to be adjusted . . . but you'll need that narrow feeler gage if you want to check them to make sure
My engine is 95% stock. I just installed a CAI last weekend, but that's the first mod I've done. Otherwise, it's mostly been a full tuneup and fluid changes.
Next I'll be looking into headers and exhaust, but probably not much beyond that, so stock plugs should be fine for quite some time.
Thanks for the info and for the link. That's a hefty priced spark plug tool.
I imagine that's just for changing the gap? As for checking it, I have a feeler gauge, but it wouldn't fit into the given space.
Or does that tool also have something in it to check the gap?
Otherwise, I imagine I'd need a narrower feeler gauge:
Yes, you will indeed require a narrower feeler gauge in order to check the gap.
Originally Posted by Bert
yeah, they should be pre-gapped and very stable so should not need to be adjusted . . . but you'll need that narrow feeler gage if you want to check them to make sure
I had installed the plugs a little while back without gapping them, since I didn't have the tools to do so. It drives very nicely with no issues, so I assumed that style of plug came with the gap set.
But, it's always bugged me that I never checked the gap since I'm generally a perfectionist with those sorts of things.
You should not need that tool for a near stock car. When installing plugs with a side electrode it is easy to adjust a gap and it is easy for a box to get dropped in shipment that can cause a closed up gap too easy, but these plugs will take a bit more to close up, so it's good to check gaps for closing with a wire gauge, and no further need.
If closed up, well you have a choice ... replace ... or ... find a way to adjust.
I had installed the plugs a little while back without gapping them, since I didn't have the tools to do so. It drives very nicely with no issues, so I assumed that style of plug came with the gap set.
But, it's always bugged me that I never checked the gap since I'm generally a perfectionist with those sorts of things.
Well, darn, that's broken, so I guess I'll have to fix that...
/It's actually slated to get replaced with everything else A/C but the evaporator in the dash, because new parts are in, and the compressor's shot.
//I'll get it emptied first, I ain't a jerk like that.
///And then finally, that Cali Special front grille insert goes on, as now it has something new to protect.
I had installed the plugs a little while back without gapping them, since I didn't have the tools to do so. It drives very nicely with no issues, so I assumed that style of plug came with the gap set.
But, it's always bugged me that I never checked the gap since I'm generally a perfectionist with those sorts of things.
I'll leave them be for now.
Depending on how often you change your plugs and mileage? You may also want to consider applying a thin coat of high-temp nickel anti-seize on the ground shield barrels to prevent any carbon from building up on them. Unfortunately, the early 2005-08 3 valve spark plugs are a 2-piece design well known for separating inside the heads due from carbon build up around the ground shields. The carbon build up causes the ground shields to seize up inside the heads and separate. However, if you change out your spark plugs between every 3-5 years or every 15-25k miles? then there's really no need for concern. But just for your own piece of mind, I would still apply a thin coat of high-temp nickel anti-seize, nevertheless just for added insurance.
Depending on how often you change your plugs and mileage? You may also want to consider applying a thin coat of high-temp nickel anti-seize on the ground shield barrels to prevent any carbon from building up on them. <snip>
There we go. That stuff is mandatory, not optional, for any new spark plugs going in. Doesn't matter the years/use, this should be done. I get that it's possible that a not-used engine wouldn't need it, but the truth is that's a mileage thing, and they'll store for dang near forever otherwise. So you'd always have the concern, unless you're swapping them unnecessarily every year or something. They don't need that. Just coat them and be ok with it. Totally worth the effort.
But that's me. Y'all do y'all and that'll... um... doll? Doesn't work as well when I say it that way... Just don't come cryin' to me about how they got stuck now that I told ya.
Yeah, here we go again! Unless enough carbon builds up around the ground shields? only then will the plugs seize up inside the heads. If the plugs are changed between every 3-5 years or between every 10k-15k miles? they won't seize up from carbon build up inside the heads. The plugs seize up inside the heads from years and years of carbon build up around the ground shields, especially on those with higher mileage above 50k miles. Therefore, when people expect they can wait up to 10 years+ or put nearly 100k miles on their spark plugs before changing them, is when they don't realize the ground shields will seize inside the heads due to years of carbon build up from putting 50k miles and higher on their spark plugs. My car currently has 30k miles on her and on it's third set of spark plugs in which none of them have ever broken, including the original Motorcraft plugs that were never applied with nickel anti-seize. My current Autolite HT0 spark plugs also do NOT have NAS applied to them, as my local Ford dealership technician had also confirmed that as long as they're changed between every 3-5 years or every 10k-15k miles? applying NAS isn't really necessary as the plugs won't have the amount of carbon build up on the ground shields causing them to seize up inside the heads. Only when putting over 50k miles and up or waiting 10 years or more before changing out spark plugs? is when applying NAS is absolutely mandatory. That being said, another reason my Ford dealership tech recommended against applying NAS was for the very same reason you brought up from the following post below in which you previously submitted from another thread regarding build up of too much NAS presenting a potential problem down the road.
Originally Posted by houtex
If you apply the NAS, just a thin layer and all good.... Although I do wonder if at some point if there's gonna be a buildup of too much NAS and that present a problem down the road... but I'll see if I get that far. I may take some sort of lint free situation and try to wipe off the tunnel next change, if the heads don't come off before then.../Another thought... every so often, just turn them out a couple turns, then turn them back in. The problem is basically carbon weld, as soot from the burning gasoline is being forced into the cavity and swedging the stuff in there, making it effectively a 'press fit' situation. There's not an insignificant amount of pressure in there y'know. So yeah. Like over shimming the plugs after time. Turn them out a little should break it up, and it'll get out the exhaust... ostensibly. Or seafoam the thing every 20K... and even then... Just easier to put NAS in the cavity instead and be done with it.
3/18/21, 02:01 PM
What he said.
Just don't come cryin' to me about how they got stuck now that I told ya. 