C&L MAF Bracket
C&L MAF Bracket
In the process of installing my new C&L Street CAI (i.e., aluminum pipe) and had a question about the MAF bracket. Instructions do state MAF bracket is optional, and I'd prefer to run without it. However, I'm concerned I might encounter issues not installing bracket. Does the silicone sleeve (at the T/B end) provide enough support for the pipe & filter? It would seem without MAF bracket support, pipe would tend (over time) to succumb to gravity and begin to drop at the MAF end of pipe... or loosen due to continued vibration....any word from the wise? Thx.
The C&L Street is one of the heaviest intakes I have come across. I figured it was a good idea to use the support bracket. Although I know plenty of folks who chose not to use it and have had no problems.
I don't know your reason for not wanting to use the bracket, but if it has to do with changing the factory valve cover bolt with the one provided by C&L, then you may want to try cutting a section out of the aluminum bracket so that it makes a fork instead of a loop. That way you can just loosen the valve cover bolt and slide the fork in and retorque. (I hope that makes sense)
I don't know your reason for not wanting to use the bracket, but if it has to do with changing the factory valve cover bolt with the one provided by C&L, then you may want to try cutting a section out of the aluminum bracket so that it makes a fork instead of a loop. That way you can just loosen the valve cover bolt and slide the fork in and retorque. (I hope that makes sense)
Exactly as stated above. I wouldn't worry about the one bolt, but if you're concerned cut it into a fork so that the bolt doesnt have to come out completely and retorque as suggested above.
The C&L Street is one of the heaviest intakes I have come across. I figured it was a good idea to use the support bracket. Although I know plenty of folks who chose not to use it and have had no problems.
I don't know your reason for not wanting to use the bracket, but if it has to do with changing the factory valve cover bolt with the one provided by C&L, then you may want to try cutting a section out of the aluminum bracket so that it makes a fork instead of a loop. That way you can just loosen the valve cover bolt and slide the fork in and retorque. (I hope that makes sense)
I don't know your reason for not wanting to use the bracket, but if it has to do with changing the factory valve cover bolt with the one provided by C&L, then you may want to try cutting a section out of the aluminum bracket so that it makes a fork instead of a loop. That way you can just loosen the valve cover bolt and slide the fork in and retorque. (I hope that makes sense)
If you fork the aluminum bracket, it would honestly add about 45 seconds to the swap. Don't know what the torque spec for the bolt is, but I didn't even use my torque wrench for it. Just don't strongarm the bolt and you should be fine.
I think the bracket is needed given the weight of the intake and poor quality of the heat shield.
If you take the bolt out of the cover you can tap the bolt out of the washer/insert with a hammer and a vice. The grind the tabs of the bolt off. Reinsert the insert into the valve cover, then the bracket goes on top, then the bolt.
The reason for the above is that the original valve cover bolts/fasteners have metal sleeves to make it impossible to warp or crack the cover by overtightening the bolt. The C&L bolt and instructions eliminate this feature and can stress the corner of the valve cover. By doing the above mod, the factory fastening system is maintained and the bolt can be tightened normally with no fear of damage..
I ordered a new bolt from ford and keep it on hand in case I ever have to go back to the dealer.
If you take the bolt out of the cover you can tap the bolt out of the washer/insert with a hammer and a vice. The grind the tabs of the bolt off. Reinsert the insert into the valve cover, then the bracket goes on top, then the bolt.
The reason for the above is that the original valve cover bolts/fasteners have metal sleeves to make it impossible to warp or crack the cover by overtightening the bolt. The C&L bolt and instructions eliminate this feature and can stress the corner of the valve cover. By doing the above mod, the factory fastening system is maintained and the bolt can be tightened normally with no fear of damage..
I ordered a new bolt from ford and keep it on hand in case I ever have to go back to the dealer.
Appreciate all the great input... think I'll try the 'notched fork' bracket mod, which will allow me to re-use OEM value cover bolt. Appears I should be able to back out OEM bolt just enough to slide forked bracket under bolt head.. then re-torque bolt to 89lb-in (per Service Manual). CAI mod will have to wait until after Dealer repairs/repaints engine compartment due to leaking brake fluid...
Dr.Q The MAF bracket is a piece of cake to install! the valve cover bolt is no problem to remove! I have removed my CAI a few times for dealer issues and left the bracket on! you would have to be looking for it to see it with the factory air box on! The bracket does add stability to whole unit! plus it does position the CAI in the correct position!
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