Putting on new pads & my back piston wont screw down no mater how many times I turn it.
If I turn it counter clockwise it comes out but now its out even further.

What am I doing wrong? The e-brake is not on...

 

It has been awhile since I did rear brakes like this but i am pretty sure you have to push down when you turn. And i mean really PUSH down.

I'll grab my service manual and see what it says...


edit: Well the service manual is no help. It just says to turn clockwise using special tool #blah blah. The only thing that I can see is different is, the manual says to remove the caliper from the vehicle and disconnect the brake lines. I wonder if you need to break the bleeder lose to reduce pressure and let the piston back in??? I could be totally wrong.

 

Im going to try and open up the bleeder screw to relieve the pressure and try again this afternoon....

 

HAHA, thats just what I was thinking.

 

This has been quite a trial and I only have one front wheel done. I want to slap whoever designed the retaining clips for the front pads. You have to turn them to install then turn then and lift it over the back of the caliper to secure it. The problem is they snap off when you turn them. What a PITA....and there is no way to install the pad then install the clips. So after many, many, many install snaps I finally got it on.

The metal clips on the back impede putting the pads in like you wouldnt believe and fall out or block it.

This has been quite a deal and Im only on wheel #2~!! aaaahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh

lol

hopefully taking the pressure off does the trick or Im at a loss.

 

Keeping downward pressure on the piston and cracking the bleed screw should do it. What type of tool are you using to screw it down? I found that switching to the proper tool (got the set from HF) made a world of difference compared to using the universal cube tool on the end of a ratchet.

Another thought, though--have you installed aftermarket stainless lines? Some of them (at least earlier versions) allow the banjo bolt to bottom out against the piston...

 

For the front pads--I tried turning the clips too initially, that is a huge pain in the ***. Broke a number of the spring clips off and getting them back on is fun as well.

It's VERY easy to change the front pads if you leave the pad carrier portion (Item 6) of the caliper in-place, remove one of the caliper bolts (Item 1), and loosen the other one. This will let the caliper portion w/ the pistons (Item2) rotate about the loosened bolt--and you can flip the caliper up, install the pads in the pad carrier, then rotate the caliper back down and reinstall the bolts. 10 mins/caliper w/ this method. See item 1 in the attached diagram.



The rears are just a PITA and you have to press down while turning. I recommend the $30 tool from Harbor Freight.

 

Are you using the tool? I made a tool to do mine. One side loosened up fine and the other side was stuck. I ended up removing the caliper from the car and putting it in a vice to hold it while I had to hulk it.

 

ok...spent 4 hrs on it (till dark) yesterday and finally got it. man oh man whoever designed that deserves a good kick. Even cracking the bleeder screw didnt do it.....initially.
I bolted the caliper back to the car after removing the rotor so it would hold it while I torqed on it.
I was just turnig and pushing over and over and saw it going nowhere then one time I saw it go in slightly
so I kept it up. Finally got it in and installing the pads while keeping those clips in OH MY GOD!! What a PITA!

Ok...now I just have one more set to do on the front and then its the fun part.

Anyways thanks for the help and support!

And yes I used the correct tool. I rented it from Auto Zone.