Brake fluid change
#2
Team Mustang Source
Never? Unless you are having problems with it, such as boiling or just want to upgrade to some higher temp. fluid for extra high performance driving (such as a road course). It does not go bad or get dirty without something going wrong.
#5
You should change it yearly is best. Brake fluid is hydroscopic, which means it absorbs moisture. Simply stated it can absorb moisture from the airs relative humidity. Moisture reduces the boiling point of brake fluid and therefore the efficency of the ability of high braking forces. The lower the boiling point the more prone to brake fade. As little as 4% moisture in the system can reduce the boiling point by 50%. Also moisture in the system promotes corrosion in the system. New fluid is almost clear, have a look a your fluids colour and you will see the effects of moisture in the system. There is nothing more impressive to the brake feel than new fluid flush. Instanally noticeable firmer pedal feel.
#7
I like to keep an eye on it. The stuff does get contaminated even though it is almost a completely sealed system. I say almost because I still don't trust that brake fluid cap. At any rate, I think it is a good idea to change it out periodically, maybe by time rather than mileage. When it starts looking dark, I change mine. That usually translates into a year, year and a half.
In fact, I'm going to change out the fluid in our Family Truckster next oil change. I have been using Motorcraft fluid. It's pretty good and doesn't cost an arm and a leg.
In fact, I'm going to change out the fluid in our Family Truckster next oil change. I have been using Motorcraft fluid. It's pretty good and doesn't cost an arm and a leg.
#8
The good thing about brake fluid is that you can tell that it's going bad. The brake pedal will depress more (feel spongy), and you may not be able to trigger the ABS like you used to. Once you start noticing that it's time for a change. Otherwise go by what it says in your service manual. The only exception to those rules would be if you're a road course trackday guy, in which case you'll have to bleed your brakes before and after every hard day.
#9
Team Mustang Source
I just checked the Scheduled Maintenance document for ALL FORD VEHICLES, and it does not list brake fluid change as a maintenance item for any mileage. The only vehicle in the Ford Fleet that lists brake fluid changes is a Class A Motorhome (whatever that is). It says every 2 years. Cars, Trucks, Normal Service, Severe Service...no mention up to 150,000 miles, which is as high as it goes on the schedule.
#12
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Here is what the workshop manual says... "The hydraulic system can be bled manually or with pressure bleeding equipment." Just follow the manufacture's guidelines.
#13
I change out the fluid every 2 years. As the fluid absorbs water it can corrode the lines and calibers. For some reason American car makers do not list brake fluid changes as part of normal maintenance, where European makers do. To say don`t change it if it still works is like saying, why change motor oil? the car still runs.
#14
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#15
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#16
Legacy TMS Member
A diagnostic tool is necessary for cycling the ABS pumps in case air gets in there. Otherwise I have heard that pressure bleeders and the 2 man procedure works well. There is some controversy over using the MityVac for an ABS system. I have used the MityVac to bleed the system in my Crown Vic (4-wheel ABS) and the E-250 (4-wheel ABS) for years w/o any problems.
I've seen a lot of used CVPIs (patrol cars) that hit the auction block with BLACK brake fluid. Brake fluid is hygroscopic and readily absorbs moisture from air. The master cylinder reservoir caps are not 100% air-tight. In fact there is a small slit cut in the center of the gasket to allow the pressure to change inside the reservoir, which allows air to contact the fluid.
I have NEVER seen any brake fluid in the reservoir stay crystal clear for more than 2 years. The factory fill usually turns pitch black at the end of 2 years.
FYI, the more moisture the fluid absorbs, the sooner it boils, creating air pockets/bubbles in the hydraulic line. I normally bleed and flush the system once a year, since it only costs about $3 for a large 64 oz bottle of DOT 3 brake fluid.
I've seen a lot of used CVPIs (patrol cars) that hit the auction block with BLACK brake fluid. Brake fluid is hygroscopic and readily absorbs moisture from air. The master cylinder reservoir caps are not 100% air-tight. In fact there is a small slit cut in the center of the gasket to allow the pressure to change inside the reservoir, which allows air to contact the fluid.
I have NEVER seen any brake fluid in the reservoir stay crystal clear for more than 2 years. The factory fill usually turns pitch black at the end of 2 years.
FYI, the more moisture the fluid absorbs, the sooner it boils, creating air pockets/bubbles in the hydraulic line. I normally bleed and flush the system once a year, since it only costs about $3 for a large 64 oz bottle of DOT 3 brake fluid.
#17
I plan to bleed the system...I installed line locks and had a few problems along the way....I just want to make sure my system working properly.
#18
Legacy TMS Member
It depends on who you ask. A TRW engineer said that it will be difficult to get air into the ABS pumps since they are generally not open until they are used. So in essence, with the ABS not being activated normally, you could just bleed it normally w/o any problems. The engineer said that if you DID manage to get air into the pumps, it would be almost impossible to bleed 100% even with the diagnostic tool.
#20
Legacy TMS Member
Have you bled and flushed the system with fresh DOT 3? If so, and your pedal still goes to the floor during normal brake operation, you may have a problem.