Hey guys,
Sorry for the newb question (yes I'm full of them) but I'm trying to decide which brace I should get to help tighten up the front end (after the strut tower replacement) of my mustang. I was considering the Steeda G-trac brace, the CHE 4 point K member brace or simply the factory brace (that the 08's and verts have). I'm not so concerned about price difference so long as it's reflected in its quality and usefulness. Also since I'm new at this stuff, I need to be sure these are all just simple bolt on parts and that it won't throw anything out of wack where I'll have to make adjustments, such as front end alignment, etc., after installing it.
thanks,
Mark

 

The CHE looks well-engineered but I am more concerned about extra weight on the front end which would ruin the weight distribution of the car. The Mustang's weight distribution is almost balanced and is considerably better than the average car on the road.

However, I decided to go with the OEM A-Arm brace that was used on all convertibles, the GT500, and all 08-up Mustangs. It was inexpensive and passed extensive factory testing (FEA, NVH, etc...) to be approved for use on the entire platform.

The G-trac brace relies on the 2 bolts for support. Unfortunately, the included bolts have threads on most of the shank, so you are relying on the weakest part of the bolt since the G-trac bar is unlikely to flex.

I haven't heard anything about substantial improvements going with a CHE or G-trac over the OEM A-Arm brace. I bought my OEM A-Arm brace from John Bleakley Ford:

M-5025-A

http://209.60.227.212/frparts.asp

 

http://www.fordracingparts.com/parts...tKeyField=9790

 

I've got the CHE brace on mine and I went with that one since it's the only one out there (that I know of) that you can use the torque limiter bars with. The torque limiters really tightened up the shifter...I have a Hurst and I can really slam that thing into third at high rpms with total confidence.
I did notice that the front end dove into corners a little better after installing it. I also have a strut tower brace up top, but didn't feel anything when that was put on, but that brace on the bottom really works. I would think that most any brand of brace will give a tighter front end though.

 

The CHE is like a hybrid g-trac and k-member brace. If you're attempting to tighten up the crossmember, the OEM bar appears to do the most work since it is located at the rear most section of the brace.

 

I have the CHE (really nice piece) and ditched the OEM one. They weighted within a pound of each other.

 

+1 on the CHE k-member brace with torque limiters.

 

I see you have the MGW shifter in your future mods.... With the MGW shifter you won't need the CHE with torque limiters, because you won't have any binding problems.

I have the BMR A-Arm Support, it is only $59.95 and the quality is very good. The CHE (without limiters) or G-Trac will also be a good choice. It's kinda a matter of personal preference.

Bobby M.

 

Sure you can...the binding isn't because of any particular shifter, it's a result of the shifter design being remote mounted. The engine/tranny twists under torque twisting the shifter arm itself and it can bind at it's pivot points...no shifter brand is going to stop that. You either need torque limiter bars or stiffer motor mounts or both to stop it entirely.
That's not to say that the MGW isn't a good shifter, it just has the same remote mount limitations as all the rest.

 

Thanks for your input guys. After reading your posts my choices are down to either just getting the 2008 OEM brace or getting the CHE brace with torque limiters

 

Not to start another MGW war here, but all shifters are not made the same. The MGW is designed so that the when the engine/tranny twist the front support arm can pivot with the movement and doesn't bind the shifting mechanism... therefore no missed shifts because of binding.

That's why I don't understand the rationale of people not wanting to pay $295 for the MGW, yet they will pay $279 for a Pro 5.0, Steeda or now the Hurst Billet and then go and pay $150 for a CHE with torque limiters to fix the binding problem.

It's a matter of preference, but I just don't get the math... when they say the MGW is to expensive... MGW has the best of everything, customer service, build quality, operation and all the adjustability you could want.

Bobby M.

 

+2 on the CHE K-member brace w/torque limiters.

 

Thanks again for everyones input. I ended up pulling the trigger and puchased a CHE brace with torque limiters last night. If this works as good as what I've been reading on this and other forums, I may not even need the MGW shifter now....we'll have to see.

 

I am avoiding the torque limiters for fear of added NVH. My stock shifter feels like an oar from a row boat, but at least it is quiet and somewhat vibration free.

 

+1 If I were you I would install the MGW shifter first it's one of the best mods out there. Work those other mods in later until you get the driving satifaction your looking for.

Just my 2 cents

Jed

 

I agree with you 100% that the MGW is a GREAT shifter...no doubt about it. It has more adjustability than others out there. The reason that not everyone jumps on that boat is most of us know that it's not the shifter that stops that 2/3 shift problem and don't want to pay more for a shifter than is necessary. The shifter itself is not binding, it's the stock remote shifter rod that goes from the tranny to the shifter. And it's not even binding that much, it's pulling against you during the 2nd to 3rd shift. All the shifters out there use the same exact stock shifter rod and that is what is binding/pulling, not the shifter itself. What is actually happening is the shifter rod is pulling directly against your 2/3 shift. As the tranny torques around it is pulling the shifter rod down and to the right, while you are trying to pull the bar up and to the left (on the 2nd to 3rd shift as your hand goes up and to the right). That's what causes you to miss that shift, not the shifter. You eliminate that not with a different shifter but you eliminate the torque by adding torque limiter bars or stiffer motor mounts. Some guys have even gone the old style cheapie route and used motor straps with a turnbuckle to stop it. I got almost no additional NVH from the torque limiter bars, but you will get some more with prothane motor mounts...that's why I left the stock motor mounts in place. All that said, the MGW is a GREAT shifter, maybe even the best one out there, but it's not a cure for the design weakness of having a remote shifter.