DavesGTCS

This may have been asked (and answered) before, but I couldn't find anything previously.
I have a '13 GT/CS to which I just had the Ford Racing 2.3L (625hp) Supercharger kit installed. It's about to be calibrated, but the tuner tells me I need to add a boost-a-pump to protect from seriously lean running at WOT. I get that, especially since the car has long tube headers and the Ford tune doesn't support header applications. Ford says because the kit came with 47lb injectors, they don't think the booster is necessary, probably just tweaks to the fuel tables. Note- the car has a 6-speed and 3.55 rear end.
Anticipating the need for the booster, I had bought the Kenne Bell unit.
My questions are these: I can't locate a place on the S/C intake where I can tap off to sample the boost- does anyone here have experience with this? Also, what are the opinions about the need for the pump booster? My application is as a daily driver (in the summer), somewhat spirited, but it's certainly NOT a track car.
Thanks!
Dave

07 Boss

Best way to check if you need more fuel capacity is to datalog your fuel pump duty cycle. You really don't want it over 80% but you can get away with it fir short periods of time. But if you are above that 80% mark you should look into a boost a pump or a duel pump set up. My Whipple kit came with the dual gt500 pump set up. Your kit did not include a pump upgrade? Did you get the tuner kit or the full kit?

Also any vacuum line will work for your boost gauge. I think I used the one going to my FRPS.

DavesGTCS

Thanks for the reply. I bought the complete kit- you must have bought a different kit or they changed the kit contents. I bought it from AM, but the kit is EXACTLY the same at Ford (except it costs lots more)- there is no pump voltage booster in either kit and it's not called out. I talked to Ford Racing this morning and they insist there is no need for a boost-a-pump; that the stock pump at stock voltage has more than enough capacity to deal with this s/c and the 47lb injectors, and 2. There IS a place to take off boost to either run the switch for a boost-a-pump or sample for a boost gauge- it's a plugged hole on the runner to #4.
So, I'm taking her to the tuner Saturday and we'll see what happens. Worst case, I still have the boost-a-pump and will have to install it and come back to the tuner for another round.

Gabe

There's a plug that goes into the passenger-side rear corner of the manifold the blower sits on.
It's not easy to see, but the arrow in the pic below points to that area.




And a zoom-in pic, this is actually off a friend's car and he has a Roush fitting added on so he can run a boost gauge and hook up a dyno boost sensor since he's on the dyno a lot:
(when he goes to the dyno he removes the plug on top of that brass fitting and screws in the dyno's sensor)

07 Boss

That may be so seeing as I have a 4.6l. The 5.0 may have more capacity stock than my lowly 3 valve. Again, just watch the pump duty cycle as you never want it to be at 100% capacity.

DavesGTCS

So, it turns out the car DOESN'T NEED a boost-a-pump. I spoke with Ford Racing and Kenne Bell and they both confirmed that up to at least the power of this combination, there's plenty of fuel capacity and I should be fine. So, it went on the dyno and we found that they are absolutely correct. Fuel looked great at WOT and both LTFT and STFT were perfect, even with the headers (which Ford said their tune didn't support). The car needed a couple of degrees more timing, but it's making 555rwhp and 500rwtq! Drivability is great and she's just a beast with traction control off and my foot to the firewall.
I highly recommend this combination for anyone wanting a nice s/c installation (the kit is very clean to install) and gobs of power!

Gabe

Good to hear!
I only went to a Boost-a-pump when I went to the current 3.125" pulley, the 10-11 psi set-up, which put me at 608/517 for numbers.
Until then there was no need for the BAP.