Thanks, you da man .

 

Guys, be sure to do one LCA side at a time. I removed them both, and now the LCA's are too short to fit into the rear axle bracket.

Edit: I used the jack near the front of the pumkin (by the pinion flange) which brought it close enough to work.

 

Thank you so much for that! I was only doing 1 at a time (btw, I already had the LCA's, just adding the relocation brackets) and I still couldn't get them lined back up. I spent 1 1/2 hours on the driver's side doing everything I could think of to try to pull the axle back in. Your trick worked right away and I had the driver's side done 10 mins after that. Passenger side took about 20.

Bill, you may want to add that tip to your write-up as well. I surely can't be the only one to have that trouble. Then again, everything with me turns into a project. Take the estimated time and multiply by 2.5 for me to do it lol.

 

Done!

 

Hey bill, what kind of grease did you use on the bushings? I'm getting ready to install my own set and I'm wondering what's good and whats not. I already have some Valvoline sythetic (black) grease, wondering if that stuff's good to use

 

We actually used a SeaDoo full synthetic grease. Leo has re-greased them once so far since the original install. No complaints of squeaks to date.

If I didn't have the SeaDoo grease, I probably would've bought the Mobil 1 synthetic. I'm sure the Valvoline will do just fine.

 

Dumb question here but I could not get my aftermarket nor stock LCA's to fit into the relocation brackets. It appeared that the relocation bracket was just a mm too shallow to allow the LCA to fit. Is it supposed to be this difficult? I went ahead and installed my LCA's without the relocation bracket and had zero issues getting the LCA to mount to the stock mounting location on the axle. Why does BMR design the relocation bracket to be so tight? Is it really that necessary?

I have pics I can upload tomorrow.

 

Here are some pics referencing the BMR drop bracket and the factory control arm and BMR spacer that is the same length as the width of the stock mount.

 

The BMR brackets are a bit tight. I had to use the jack to get my BMR LCA's in. When I pulled them back out, I actually sanded just a bit off the bushings and put some grease on them. The slid right in that time.

 

my bmr lca's slid in with no problems

 

i know in the pics its hard to see, but I'd have to sand quite a bit of material off to get these in. I'm wondering if these just missed their quality control. I wish I would have gotten a pic of them on the car so you could see how much of a difference in space there was between the drop bracket and the factory mount.

 

How much did those NVH blocks weigh. Looks like they would reduce alot of unsprung weight

 

I have the bmr relo brackets and older LCA....I also have the eibach prokit on my car. I have been running it in the middle hole but been thinking of going to the lower one. What bad effects should I look for if the lower hole is not right???

Also a tad off subject....my driver tire hits the front part of the fender (305/45/18's)...so I want to get the adj lca to center it in the wheel well since I can tell the driver side is more forward than the passenger side. Is there a proper way to set it... or do I just move it back until it clears. I have an adj panhard so its not that the rear is not centered on the body....

 

In case it has not been said yet.

I advise anyone who has installed the BMR Relocation Brackets to have them welded in place. They have had a few failures of the passenger side one bending backwards under load.

 

Wow. It's easy to forget just how much force is acting on these components! I don't think we are ready for variable axle alignment just yet!

Too bad they couldn't have put the strap on the front of the braket instead of the back. That would have made that type of failure pretty much a non issue.

 

Ouch....maybe I need to get mine welded.

 

True. I saw some pics of the damage the failure causes and it's not pretty. As soon as I saw that I took my car to the local muffler shop and had them weld my brackets. Better safe than sorry.

 

Very true, I would not want this to happen going down the highway. Great pointer.

 

Welding them is a good idea in any event, but that kind of failure is NOT going to happen while just "going down the highway." That type of failure is going to happen under extremely hard acceleration, with significant horsepower and very sticky tires. The failure mode is from axle rotation. When you nail the gas, the tires want to rotate toward the front of the car (at the top) and the axle housing will want to counter-rotate, towards the rear at the top. This counter-rotation applies a linear force through the long axis of the LCA, which being rigid and attached to the frame, transfers that force to the mounts at each end. With street tires, the strength of the bracket is greater than the gripping force on the ground, and the tires spin. With sticky tires (slicks or drag radials on a VHT prepped surface), there is so much more grip, that the force applied to the bracket exceeds the strength of the steel right at the bend, and it folds up.

Long story short: If you're a basic daily-driver, welding is a good idea but not necessarily critical. If you slap a set of slicks on it and dump the clutch at 5K, then welding is critical...

 

Actually, I've heard of NA people making just over 300HP bend some, too.

I plan on getting my dad to weld them up for me, but finding time when he's available at the same time I am is tricky, at best.